Purchased a home several years back built in the 50's the utiliy room which has the washer and dryer in it has been redone when washer was being used the drain overflowed. The washer was 2 years old so I ran a 5/8" hose down the standpipe turned on the water and the standpipe and drain piping never filled up. i decreased the washer drain pipe down to 3/4" pvc with valve this worked for awhile then the pump seal started leaking and it finally failed lastnight. Went and purchased a new washer and run it through a cycle and it still caused the standpipe to overflow. I have a 36" standpipe which is in a collector box along with the hot and cold water lines. I have snaked out the standpipe and went approximately 25' down the pipe. Still overflows. I have 2 pictures I will send showing from the collector box to where the vent line and standbipe piping go into the foundation. These pictures were taken during renovation in 2006 I really am needing some help and not sure what to do. I do not want to wear the pump seal out on this new washer by restricting the drain flow as I did on the last washer.

The very first thing I would do is move the washer station over to the left wall and get rid of the dog leg. These 90's set up backpressure as the discharge hits it cawusing a back up. You might get by with sealing off the hose and forcing the discharge past the 90's but the drainage layout that you have at the present time isn't the best in the west. Good luck, Tom

First, I would move washer closer

Second, I would cut a cleanout in just before the pipe goes into the ground and snake the drain from there.

Third, I would add a PTRAP and if you move washer may not need to add a vent. If keep washer where it is and it is over 5-6 feet from the vent then I would also add a VENT...??

Where is the ptrap pooterscooter? Need the ptrap to keep sewer gasses from escaping into your home.

Let us know?

MARK

The next thing I would do is add a PTRAP and a VENT...??

Where is the ptrap and vent pooterscooter??

Let us know??

MARK

( Spedball slaps forehead! ) I should have caught that! But I was too busy zeroing inn on the dog leg. Nice save Mark! Pulled my chestnuts out of da fire! Tom

The vent line is in (pict.142) running up the middle of the pict headed for roof. As far as the P-TRAP is that where the drain line connects before going into the main sewer?

Speedball if I was to want to seal off the drain line and I guess what you are saying is make my setup a closed system what would I need to do that? I know the stand pipe is 2" pvc

Agree with Tom and Mark: Replace the 2 PVC 90's with long sweep 90's . That will solve your problem. The 90s you have are so sharp that water cannot flow through fast enough. If this is 2" pipe than vent should not be more then 5' away from the trap. Trap ? Yeh, you don't have one.. Get one ! The way you have it now - you are venting your sewer into your house. It is "Plumbing 101". Also, it is quite a health hazard, just to say the least..

Milo, the vent goes through the ceiling in the utility room and out the roof to the outside.I am not a plumber and this is why I registered to ask my questions. All I am asking is that someone tell me what I need to make my drain a closed system to force the water out my drain pipe. I feel I am getting in over my head with this problem. And I am trying to keep the cost down with out making my headache bigger.

Thanks

Porter...

You're doing great! There are just a lot of rules to drainage work.

Milo pointed out that you have short pattern 90s... would be nice if these were long sweep 90s...

The vent looks like it is over 5-6 feet away... is it? If it is then you need to run an AAV (air admittance valve) next to the p-trap as in left picture (or run vent so it is closer) If within 5-6 feet then you need to pipe it up as in right picture.

More rules now...

Another name for AAV is a PROVENT... may or may not be legal in your area, but work great in cases like this when vent is too far away (if yours is?). The AAV would need to be accessible for future change out if AAV malfunctions.

2" trap directly under washing machine box...so you will need to offset standpipe with 2 45s into the washing machine box
in your case

Standpipe out of trap needs to be between 30 and 36" tall so you may need to RAISE the washing machine box here.

Also, cut that cleanout into the line over where drain connects into vent and snake drain from there.

Do all this and this puppy should drain great!

Let us know if have more questions...

MARK

Mark got here faster and explained how to correct your situation. He explained it just the way it should be installed. All you have to do is to install P-trap, and replace those sharp 90s with long sweep 90's. All fittings, pipe, and glue can be purchased at Home Depot. It is a few dollars job and should not take you more than 15 minutes to accomplish. Come back if you need more help... Milo