View Full Version : Engine quits below 1,000 RPM
ChickenFarmer
Oct 10, 2008, 06:34 PM
Hello!
I have a '95 Olds Aurora with a V8. It is in really good shape, except it suddenly started stalling if the RPMs go below 1,000, basically it won't run at low speeds. I had the mechanic change the EGR valve because of a code... didn't fix it... I had some sort of piston timing thing replaced... didn't fix it. My mechanic is out of options. Is there some reasonable explanation for this? Something in the fuel? A bad fuel filter?
KISS
Oct 10, 2008, 06:40 PM
Boy does this sound like a similar problem. There may be a valve that controls the EGR or there may be a solenoid that opens the EGR with the ignition off to prevent dieseling.
Usually the EGR system is disabled until the car warms up.
I's check for vacuum at the EGR valve when it's messing up.
TxGreaseMonkey
Oct 11, 2008, 06:35 AM
. Replace spark plugs (ACDelco only).
. Replace Ignition Control Module (ICM):
While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=194&PTSet=A)
. Replace coil packs:
While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=190&PTSet=A)
. Replace spark plug wires.
. Replace fuel filter.
ICMs and coils should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. They are problematic components, especially the ICM.
ChickenFarmer
Oct 15, 2008, 10:05 AM
Boy does this sound like a similar problem. There may be a valve that controls the EGR or there may be a solenoid that opens the EGR with the ignition off to prevent dieseling.
Usually the EGR system is disabled until the car warms up.
I's check for vacuum at the EGR valve when it's messing up.
Thank you. Yes. I was throwing the EGR code for a year or so. My mechanic said there was a large piece of carbon stuck in the valve that wouldn't budge and so I asked him to replace the valve components. Also he said that this model has 2 crankshaft sensors that might be causing the problem so I had him replace those.
These two problems, as I mentioned didn't get it done. I noticed today that the stalls really occur when I am going uphill slowly and the RPMs drop, but the RPMs also fluctuate quickly up and down (between 500-1500) just before the engine conks.
I like the vacuum idea because this car has a rather sophisticated computer that codes for just about everything. Low vacuum might slip below its recognizable threshold.
Thank you! I will let you know what happens!
ChickenFarmer
Oct 15, 2008, 10:12 AM
. Replace spark plugs (ACDelco only).
. Replace Ignition Control Module (ICM):
. Replace coil packs:
. Replace spark plug wires.
. Replace fuel filter.
ICMs and coils should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. They are problematic components, especially the ICM.
Thank you. I have just put Platinum plugs and new head wires 15,000-20,000 miles ago because they are OEM standard on this car. There are only 89,000 total miles on this vehicle and it is in really good shape. The fuel filter is interesting and the ICM is something worth considering (wouldn't that throw a code?).
One other thing I should mention. There was a recall on the fuel rail for this vehicle and the dealership did a really crappy job installing the metal/insulated replacement (25 screws came off... 20 screws went back on... ) Any possibility that there could be a fuel flow problem at this location? Is there a test for that?
Thanks!
this8384
Oct 15, 2008, 02:47 PM
What codes did your mechanic get from the computer scan? I know you said there was one related to the EGR valve but are there any others? It could be a vacuum problem or even a bad throttle position sensor.
You said going slowly uphill will cause the vehicle to stall; is it the same at any speed or just when you're going slower?