I am curious about the current value of my 1928 A silver Certificate. The serial number is N98941894A and the plat number is J900. The back has a unique block "ONE" that is unlike any other dollar bill I have seen. Thanks so much for your research into this rare silver certificate. Regards, Ed

Hi, Ed!

Flying Blue Eagle is a person on this site who has the current documentation concerning the possible monetary value of such things. As such, I'm sure that he will be along eventually to address your post.

In the meantime, and as per Flying Blue Eagle's request, it would be helpful if you would post the following information concerning the currency that you have. I know that you have already provided some of the information that is asked for in the quote that is below.

Thanks!


#1 - Series date, Example 1935, 1935A ,1935B, etc.
#2 - Signatures - Example - Priest -Anderson
#3 - Color of seal,- color of serial numbers, Is there a star before or after the serial numbers, what color?
#4 - What is written above on the very top, Example - SILVER CERTIFICATE<Federal reserve notes, treasury or coin notes. Legal tender notes, etc. etc.

What it is worth monetarily will also greatly depend on the graded condition of it. Do you know what the graded condition of it is?

If you might not, then what is below should be helpful to you. Flying Blue Eagle will also need to know what the possible graded condition of it is.

What is posted below is quoted from the following site. 1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money? (http://www.faqs.org/faqs/coin-collecting/paper-money-faq/section-15.html)

1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

The condition of a note is critical to its value. Lowering the
grade of a note one notch can decrease its value by 1/3 or even
1/2. An expensive note which falls between two categories might
be worth a thousand dollars more in the higher category than the
lower one. Thus, it's often important to be more precise than
using a limited number of categories.

But here's a general guideline. Note that many dealers have
slightly different grading systems, especially with various
sub-grades of uncirculated. There's no official system of grading,
unfortunately. But these are pretty much universally accepted.
I've received a lot of input and tried to hammer out the best
descriptions for each category.

Crisp Uncirculated, UNC or CU: This means absolutely not the
slightest sign of any handling or wear or folding or *anything*.
Some people use additional grades to distinguish qualities such
as perfect centering or other printing characteristics. Certainly
a note which has centering problems which are visible from a
distance of 1 meter (3 feet) should have this mentioned in the
condition description.

Almost Uncirculated (or About Uncirculated), AU: This means there
is a slightly detectable imperfection such as a counting fold on one
corner or slightest fold in the center (nothing which breaks the
surface of the paper) or a pinhole. At first glance it looks like
an UNC note.

Extremely Fine, EF or XF: Generally three light folds or one strong
fold which breaks the surface. There may be slight rounding at the
corners.

Very Fine, VF: May have several folds although the note is still
crisp and has a minimum of dirt. There may be minor tears or very
small holes but nothing which distracts from the overall appearance
of the note. Take an uncirculated note and crumple it once in your
hand, then flatten it out: this is a Very Fine note. Repeat the
crumpling and it's still pretty much a VF note.

Fine, F: A circulated note where individual folds and creases may
no longer be visible. To distinguish this from a VF note, when
inspecting a Fine note, it clearly does not look like a note which
has merely been crumpled a few times: It doesn't have the crispness
and brightness of a VF note. No tears may extend into the printing.
This is your average in-the-wallet note.

Very Good, VG: Tears and small holes can be present. The note is
not crisp at all. The is your lower quality in-the-wallet note.
Lots of people on the 'net don't realize that a note in "very good"
condition is really pretty lousy.

Good, G: Small pieces missing, graffiti. A worn out note.

Fair: Major tears, etc. A badly worn out note.

Poor: Even worse.

To grade a note precisely, it can help to hold the note about
20 cm (7 inches) under a strong light source (use the same source
for comparing notes) and on top of a white piece of paper and
use a 3x or 4x power magnifying glass. Make sure your hands are
clean before handling a note. This method will show a lot of
minor imperfections which are not normally visible.

Note that note from many countries have standard features which
exist for even Uncirculated notes. Some notes from Bangladesh,
Bhutan, Burma/Myanmar, India, Nepal, and Pakistan are only found
with staple holes where staples are always used to hold packs of
notes together. Most dealers list Uncirculated notes of this type
as having the usual staple holes (often abbreviated as uSH-UNC).

Also, some notes printed in France (for about 15 different
countries) have a slight crinkle effect.

Hi, Ed!

Flying Blue Eagle is a person on this site who has the current documentation concerning the possible monetary value of such things. As such, I'm sure that he will be along eventually to address your post.

In the meantime, and as per Flying Blue Eagle's request, it would be helpful if you would post the following information concerning the currency that you have. I know that you have already provided some of the information that is asked for in the quote that is below.

Thanks!

#1 as the email indicates 1928 A

#2 N. O. Woods (?) and A. W. Melton

#3 Blue seal and blue numbers and no star

#4 as the email indicates SILVER CERTIFICATES

Regards, Ed

ED.Lang _ Here are the values out of the 2008 Red Book on US CURRENCY.
#1601. - Vf-20 UNC> -63
$ 25.00 $ 55.00
#1601* - $ 40.00 $ 375.00

NOTE - The back side was printed all the same on the 1928 SERIES BILLS. 1928series( 1928, 1928A ,1928B, 1928 C ,1928D ,1928 E:>: )the only difference in the fullseries was that the ( SIGNATURES) changed SIX times
VF -means -Very Fine
UNC - MEANS - UNCIRCULATED
Have a good day and GOD BLESS

This is a one dollar1928A silver certficate.WITH A BLUE SEAL.Serial # V75094242A

ed lang-& e.fries - MR FRIES IM going to answer this question this time but what you need to do from now on is to{ ask your question }on your own post, THe reason we do this on ask me help desk -IS TO KEEP DIFFERENT POSTS FROM GETTING MIXED UP AND KEEP THINGS stright , and welcome to the best site on the computer,we have a lot of really good people on here that are {EXPERTS} in any field you can name; LIKE CLOUGH above we all try to help each other out and he really does for me quite offten, I just got out of hospital againlast night and been off here for about 7 or 8 days, BUT ANY HOW -- WELCOME TO THE SITE;;; NOW TO FINISH YOUR QUESTIONS ;; YOU have a $1.00 silver certificate ,series 1928A, BLUE seal, Signatures are -WOODS AND MELLON{note- on post #3 above }{CLOUGHS} HE has posted the requirements for each condition and grade , and it is very simple to use to figure out the grade and condition ,of paper money ;;; here is the values on the bill you have;; -
FOR 1928A- in VF-20= $25.00 and in UNC-63the value is $55.00;;{NOTE}- I didn't know if there was a
( * )before or right after the serial number{these are called replacement notes ; when printing money they and they catch one that has been damaged in some way ,it is pulled out and put in a record book then put in the furnace and burned, another note is printed and is just like the one they burned except for the ( STARS ) are on this one ;; THEY are a lot more VAUEABLE THEN THE REG> NOTE IS,and you will find these in any DENOMINATION. YOU-ALL have a great night and a better tomorrow, HERE IS THE SITE- ;; 1.9)how do you grade the condition of paper money and GOD BLESS:: F.BE.

1 million usa sine 1928 now use