I have read all of the answers to this I can find on the net, but none works or refers to my instance. The chrome shower lead broke off right at the pipe which is about 3 inches into the wall. I have tried several methods including "internal pipe wrenches" with no success. I have not tried, or been able to find, and EZ-Out. I also heard mention of MEK which I am unfamiliar with. 2 important things. The 1/2 inch internal pipe wrenches are actually a bit too small so none work. The next size is too big. Also, it almost seems like the old pipe has rusted and become one with the threads on the main pipe. I can feel nothing that would be lip from the old pipe that I could even hack at with an ice pick. Any ideas? Yes I can break through the wall on the other side or break away more of the tile in the shower, but these should be viewed as very last resorts.
Thanks

You may need to cut the pipe in the wall and install a new fitting sorry for the not so good news

Dealt with the identical problem too many times before...

Take a long, skinny, flat screwdriver and hammer. Insert the screw driver between the broken piece and solid pipe. Gently tap it several times. It will buckle inward. Then, just pull it out with needle-nose pliers.

You may be also able just to "scrape" it out w/o using hammer. Shower arm is at its threaded end very thin and will give away.

In some cases, you can take blade for metal from hacksaw, and saw through the broken piece about 1/2 way through to create a weak point in the broken piece. Here, be careful not to saw in too deep, into the female threads of the solid pipe. Then, proceed with the flat screwdriver method as described above.

You will probably need an "E-Z out". They sell them at home centers and hardwares. If it is too deep to reach, put it in a socket and use an extension. Make sure you get the one for 1/2" pipe.

Or you can go Milo's way,

You need to be patient with this one with a hacksaw blade; carefully make 2 cuts about 1/4" apart into the broken piece. Don't go too deeply, just enough so you can tap the small piece loose with a fine screwdriver. Once that is out, the remaining piece will fold into the center and can be removed with needle nose pliers. If you accidentally knock the little piece into the pipe, don't panic. When the big piece is out, screw the new shower arm (with out the head) into the elbow and turn the water on. It will flush out. Installing arm and the head put 4-5 wraps of Teflon tape on the threads, or put some good pipe dope, when you get the arm hand tight, put the handle of hammerlocks into the arm and tighten well. Then, put on the head, good luck.

John

Thank you for the help. I will give those ideas a try but it almost seems that I am down to the pipe threads on the inside. Also, I tried EZ-out at HD, but they didn't have it. I'll have to go to a smaller hardware store. I'll let you know if anything works tomorrow.

Nipple Removal tool ( the reverse-threaded piece of metal) may be too skinny and long for this application. That's because it is designed to remove thick wall steel pipe, not thin wall shower are. What happens, when you insert it - it hits the back wall of the 90 and won't allow you to go any further. If you really want to use Nipple Removal Tool than shorten it. Cut of 1" or so. Then, it will become the correct tool to use again. Good Luck !

( Sorry, I would post a photo of the tool - but the system won't allow me to )

I tried one of those (reverse threads) but it was too small or too large. It did go all of the way in though.
I think I am headed to hole in wall and cutting the pipe. I can see no distinction between the shower pipe and the plumbing house pipe. Everything I try seem to be cutting into the threads of the plumbing, but I can't be sure. Working inside a 2 inch hole, 3 inches deep leaves little ability to really see and feel the actual parts.

Yes, the old threads are probably too thin and "hidden" inside solid pipe threads. Ok, cut the hole large enough so you can use wrench and replace that 90. Let us know if you need any assistance...

So I am getting the dark picture and will be going beyond what my logic /handyman skills are used to. First, may it be possible to just retap the pipe? That would recut the threads and clean out any old rusted chrome pipe. If not, and I open the wall from one side or another, will I just find a short right angle elbow attached to a straight pipe with a nut? I won't have enough room in the wall, due to a beam, to twist the little elbow around to unscrew it if there is not a nut.

Tc4all...

When you open the wall you will find a copper fitting with threads... called a drop ear elbow. This fitting is soldered to copper pipe and will not untwist.

Since you need to open hole anyway, open a hole in the wall that is large enough to get you in closer to the drop ear elbow and try to remove the threads from the shower arm again using small screwdriver or an AWL... if threads on drop ear elbow aren't already too damaged.

Otherwise, cut the copper pipe with a mini-tubing cutter or a mini-hacksaw to an inch below the old drop ear elbow and install a new SHARKBITE DROP EAR ELBOW.

A sharkbite fitting has a simple push-fit connection that will make it so you won't have to solder any fittings in the wall. This system is great for repairs like this.

Click on this link to see what I am talking about:

AOL Search (http://search.aol.com/aol/imageDetails?s_it=imageDetails&query=sharkbite+drop+ear+elbow+fitting&img=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.orgill.com%2F200x200%2F801 1009.JPG&site=&host=http%3A%2F%2Fbrands.hardwarestore.com%2F335-cash-acme.aspx&width=104&height=104&thumbUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fimages-partners-tbn.google.com%2Fimages%3Fq%3Dtbn%3A8zbAVhgdi3OhDM %3Aimages.orgill.com%2F200x200%2F8011009.JPG&b=image%3FinvocationType%3Daolcomimage%26query%3Ds harkbite%2520drop%2520ear%2520elbow%2520fitting)

The pipe must be deburred if using the mini-hacksaw so plan on purchasing some plumber's sand cloth with the mini-tubing cutter and/or the mini-hacksaw (whichever works best in your case).

Anyway... that's my thoughts. With any luck when you open the wall you can salvage the old fitting (if so use lots of teflon tape on new shower arm).

Let us know what you think...

MARK

PS...Normally would post pics...but can't today due to attachment glitch!

Something to try, get one of those wire brushes for cleaning the inside of copper pipe. They usually come with one end for 1/2" and one end for 3/4". Cut off the 1/2" end and chuck it in a drill. See if that will clean out the remnants of the threads. Also pick up a 1/2 by 6" nipple of black pipe. After running the brush in the ell, try screwing in the pipe nipple. If you can get it started it should clean out the threads. Might not work but won't cost you much.

Hoiw do you know the pipe was threaded and not soldered? Tell us what color is the pipe and were there traces of threads at bot ends?

I appreciate all of the responses. I was a programmer for 20 years. I spent day after day digging out the solutions to problems. IN the end it was often simpler if I had just reloaded the machine with a back-up, so I started doing that more. Cut to the chase, that is what I did. Instead of going through 10 attempts to solve this the hard way, I cut the wall and the pipe. My local hardware store however, only has elbow shark bite dog ear elbow in plastic. It fits fine but I question using it. Is that OK or do I need to order it on line in brass?

Hmmmmm..

There are so many different types of fittings today. If this fitting states that it is rated for copper tubing (5/8" O.D.) then I would say you are fine.

If you want to "step it up a notch"... check with your local plumbing supply house. I'll bet they have another alternative if needed.

Let us know what you decide.

.

<snip> Also, I tried EZ-out at HD, but they didn't have it. I'll have to go to a smaller hardware store. <snip>

HD only carries things that move volume. A #9 straight flute EZ out (Endress Tool makes one I think) is what I have used in that type of situation. You have to go to a real hardware store to get that kind of thing. Spray the fitting with PBlaster (will stink to high heaven) or some REAL penetrating oil, let it sit while you find the EZ out, lightly tap the tool in (the vibration will help the penetrating oil) and turn gently. If it starts to slip try two or three strokes of a hacksaw where the flutes of the EZ out hit and try again. I have had some miserable pieces come out with a little persistence. Good luck.

EPM

To be on the safe side I would not use the plastic one, like Tom says there are many deferent fittings, try deferent plumbing supply try home depot or low's they correct ones, see the image, good luck.

John

EPMiller,

I think it is too late for the EZ out he have already cut the wall and the pipe, his best bit is to install the drop ear shrkbit elbow, Thanks.

John

OK, since the wall was open, the pipe cut, and I had the plastic elbow, I decided to try it and if it leaked I could replace it. I'll leave the wall open for a week or two just to be sure. That worked fine and I see no leak. I put the chrome extension pipe on and after a lot of effort have it aiming right. I put the shower head one, after wrapping the extension's threads with teflon tape and I get leaking at that connection. I have unwrapped and rewrapped several times with various amounts of tape and it still leaks. The instructions say not to use DOPE which I am unfamiliar with anyway. I do have some plumbers putty and some silicone grease, but I doubt these are the right thing to use. Any suggestions? (By the way, thanks to all. I never could have done this without you.)

This isn't leaking from the connection inside wall, but at the threads where shower arm joins the shower head?

If that is the case, you need to wrap the threads a good 6-8 times with the teflon tape and then try again. Wrap tape on clockwise. Do not use silicone or putty.

If that fails then you may have split the shower head or something else silly like that. At that point I suggest replacing the shower head.

Let me know if I understood...

Mark

I'll try more tape as you suggest. Nothing is split and I see no burrs.