I had a leak in my cold water feed which happens to be galvanized pipe. It was between 2 floors and I cut out the affected section. I am going to replace the cut out section with either copper or CPVC. But how does one connect unthreaded galvanized pipe to the after mentioned pipes? I don't know if SharkBite couplings work with galvanized pipe.:confused: Are there other ways to accomplish this. :o
Removing the entire length of galvanized pipe is out of the question.

how does one connect unthreaded galvanized pipe to the after mentioned pipes, copper or PVC?
To transition to copper you place a thread on the galvanized pipe and use a dielectric union,(see image). For PVC you put a thread on the galvanized and transition using a PVC female thread to slip coupling. Good luck, Tom

Remove that cut piece of galv. Pipe in the wall so you have male or female thread. Then, proceed as Tom suggested.

They do sell slip-over brass coupling that fits over unthreaded galv. Pipe - but I would not recommended it for this application. We use those for emergencies on sprinkler systems and / or only on the outside.

Milo and speedball are right. Find your nearest joints on each side of your cut. Unthread the pipe and use fittings suggested by speedball.

I would be the richest man alive if I could come up with a reliable connection fitting for unthreaded galv pipe.

Mygirlsdad:

Your fitting is here. See page 7: Legend Valve (http://www.legendvalve.com/catalog.asp?catURL=SP)


Na: Bill Gates did it with DOS... Dirty Operating System as in in Quick and Dirty.

To transition to copper you place a thread on the galvanized pipe and use a dielectric union,(see image). For PVC you put a thread on the galvanized and transition using a PVC female thread to slip coupling. Good luck, Tom

Sorry but that is virtually impossible.:( The pipe is literally buried in the wet wall to the extent I would nearly have to remove 80% of the walls to get access to achieve what you suggest. I can get close to the leak which is in a vertical run and in between 2 floors. I can cut the pipe above the leak and in the basement. Somebody suggested a Dresser compression piece. I wonder how tight this part can be to keep from leaking.:confused::eek:

It has been suggested that a 50 year old Galvanized cold water pipe is easier to unthread than a hot water pipe. TRUE? :confused:

Not an answer but a question. I don't recall ever taking apart 50 year old galvanized often enough to note any difference between hot and cold. What logic did this person give for their hypthesis?

Every one is different. It depends on the corrosiveness of the water. Take apart one joint and see how bad it is. Then, you'll know about the rest of them. Sometimes, they'll disintegrate in your wrench! Other times, they'll be almost pristine inside.

The theory says that pipe carrying water at 125 F and higher will deteriorates twice as fast than pipe that carries cold water. Therefore, the assumption is that hot water pipe will be rusted in thread area making it twice as difficult to work with.

From my own experience: the extra strength you have to produce to unscrew hot water pipe versus cold water pipe is in most cases minimal and un-noticable to plumber.

It has been suggested that a 50 year old Galvanized cold water pipe is easier to unthread than a hot water pipe. TRUE? :confused:

Whoever suggested that was thinking along the lines of hot water expansion making the threaded joint tighter and thus harder to turn. I worked back in the days when all there was were threaded galvanized connections. I don't recall any one harder to turn then the other. Regards, Tom

Hey Marc,
OK! If you can install a dresser coupling,(see image) then that's the way to go. Dresser couplings are used when the area's so tight that a regular coupling ism't a option. Good luck, Tom

Here is where our opinions and experiences differ: I would not recommend "dresser coupling" inside enclosed wall or ceiling, especially within living space of your house.

You can always thread that cut off end of galvanized pipe... Yes, it will take some effort to do that - but you will sleep better, believe me

And I agree with Milo. It's not a good idea to cover up a dresser coupling. However, when I suggested threading the bald end this is the response I got.
Sorry but that is virtually impossible. The pipe is literally buried in the wet wall to the extent I would nearly have to remove 80% of the walls to get access to achieve what you suggest.
Sometimes Milo, you got to think outside the box and if a dresser coupling's the only thing that works that that's about all you have to go with. Regards, Tom

Tom, there is always way to either remove that nipple and thread it or thread it in the ceiling. It may take some effort but I am sure it is doable.

Mark can always call skilled person who will utilize correct approach to this problem and with proper tools and bit of effort - he will thread that nipple in no time. That's why we are called "professionals".

Mark can always call skilled person who will utilize correct approach to this problem and with proper tools and bit of effort - he will thread that nipple in no time. That's why we are called "professionals".
Milo, we can answer every question we get with. Call a plumber but that's not why we're here. We're here to give options for a do it yourselfer. If there's a way to get around calling in expensive outside help we present it and leave it up to the asker. Certainly it would be best to have threaded connections but if the asker doesn't consider that a possibility then we give him the next best option for him which is adresser coupling, Why is it so difficult for you UPC guys to think outside the box? Regards, tom