Im looking to buy a portable generator for occasional use, such as some power to a house during a blackout.

I am not looking to power the whole house, Im looking to just keep a refrigerator running, maybe a light or 2, maybe interchanging a small appliance

I Do not want to overpay for a device that is overkill for my needs, but also want to have enough power to support the above mentioned items.

Any input/suggestions regarding power requirements for generator would be appreciated.
Thanks

Im looking to buy a portable generator for occasional use, such as some power to a house during a blackout.

I am not looking to power the whole house, Im looking to just keep a refrigerator running, maybe a light or 2, maybe interchanging a small appliance

I Do not want to overpay for a device that is overkill for my needs, but also want to have enough power to support the above mentioned items.

Any input/suggestions regarding power requirements for generator would be appreciated.
thanks



Furnace or no furnace?

When I bought mine (and it's been replaced with an automatic whole house) I found the difference between a small model and a large model was very little money. All I cared about was the furnace or air/garage door/sump pump/refrigerator/microwave and ended up being able to power my whole house.

I had to rent one for a few days because of a 4 day power failure. The house is gas, so the stove was operational.

The sump pump(s) usually don't run except during storms. This would be about 1/3 HP and another load of less than 50 W (bilge pump).

The critical loads were then a freezer and two refrigerators. Not sure of the combined total there, but I did have to keep moving the loads and two extension cords were used.

Definitely, not the easiest thing to do. Generators are in short supply during an emergency.

Critical devices like computers and DSL modems may require an generator with an inverter output which provide much more stable power.

The simplest method involves a generator input connector and an interlocked breaker at the panel so that the main and generator breaker cannot be engaged at the same time.

The second method is a subpanel for critical loads.

The third method is whole house with possible load sheding, like preventing the AC from being backed up.

Then there is the question of automatic and manual transfer switches.

Yep, it really would have been nice to know the load on the generator from inside.

You can also get dual fuel portable generators. That use natual gas and gasoline as fuels. You would connect the generator to an external tap like you might a gas grille.

You have to weigh options like dual fuel, electric start for portable generators and you have to weigh whether this should be in an "always available" state. They make small sheds for portable generators, so you can leave it connected. The shed needs to be able to provide cooling and exhaust.

Look carefully at gas consumption, inverter output, electric start, dual fuel, and "always available".

The VA or Watts on the nameplate combined with what loads you need to control will determine the size. Be sure lights are considered.

And I found the portable generator - and I have one of those plugs built into the side of the house and a switch box so all I do is fire the generator and plug it in, no running cords - was cumbersome and I had to start it every month to make sure it was all right and it was simply a pain. I'm in a rural area, my power is often out, I wasn't going to go through that.

And, yes, if I bought another one - mine is now an automatic gas generator - I would have gotten the electric start kind.