Well I searched it a lot, and found a lot of people are having the same problem, and this site has come up a lot in my searches, the only problem is when someone is asked a question, sometimes their answer is different than mine so I don't get an answer

Well I got a 92 civic, and its not getting spark, it gets fuel, I hear the fuel pump, I replaced the main relay with another used one, I actually got 3 in case one of them didn't work, and tried all of them

I also got another obd1 ecu and switched it and still doesn't start

So with the origonal ecu the check engine light turned on for 2 seconds and then went away, but with the service connector wires bridged/connected together it just stayed on steady

Also I read on here to check all the fuses with a multimeter, well I did and a lot of them didn't have power, but most of them were for power windows and I don't have power windows, but fuse 18 didn't have power

That would be the pgm-fi integrated control unit, not sure why it doesn't have power


Also a lot of people here said they checked their coil and ignitor, I haven't because I don't know how to, and no one has gone into detail on how to do it when I googled it


Also I tried doing that "k test" but I have no idea where or what the map sensor is, so I can't really do that test, I also attempted to test d19 and d21 on the ecu and I got nothing, but I'm using an analog multimeter and I don't think I really know how to use it properly

So my question is about what I should check next and how to do it, also about that fuse issue



K well I tried the k test and when I tested the map sensor, I'm not sure what wire to use, I thought it was green, and I got nothing from the green, but when I used the letter and turned my multimeter "down" I got something

Well my multimeter is an analog one and the dc settings are as follows:
10, 50, 250, 500
I have been using the 50 setting to test my fuses and stsuff and it makes the needle go about half way up when I connect it to the battery, but if I go to the 10 setting it just jumps all the way to the right, so when I tested the map sensor on 50 I got nothing, but when I tested it on 10 it jumped all the way to the right for the yellow wire


Also about the icm or ignitor test, there was the 2 plugs on the dist. one with 2 wires, and I tested that one, I tested the blk/ylw wire and it had power, then I couldn't find the "white/blue" wire, but the 2nd wire on this plug was all blue, I tested that one and didn't get anything, then on the other plug there was a white/blue wire and I tested that and got nothing

. Replace Fuse 18, which controls power to the ECM and main relay. The car won't start if you don't.

. Replace the ignitor and coil, because of the age of your Civic. Don't waste time trying to test them. Here's how to do the work yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

This happen to my honda accord the problems was that the computer box died

Hey grease monkey, I can't message you but is there any way I can get that on my computer (all the info in the link you sent me)

I have a 92 civic lx that won't start I have change the main fuel relay, radiator fan, spark plugs and oil, so for nothing it will start when its cool outside but as soon as it get hot it cut off.. the radiator fan don't cut on at all. Don't know what else to do

sheldon26, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.