Ok I have a 92 Civic 4dr that quit running not to long ago while leaving work.

I've checked several things it's not getting spark and can no longer hear the fuel pump kick over when when you put the key in ( for a long while on hot days it would'nt start right away would have to sit and turn the key on and off till you heard the fuel pump engage to get it to start up). From reading several posts here already I've found some useful information but still kind of lost as to what to try first. I've heard replace the main relay (tested it by feeling for the 3 clicks, I only get the first click no others). I've had the stuff inside the distributer tested it's all in working order.

Oh should also note the car itself has 220k miles on it but replaced the engine at 211k miles with a engine from japan with only 30k miles on it.

I've also heard to test the map sensor and ecm. I'm a little new to this so not sure how to test the voltage etc.

Also check engine light comes on I've checked and it's not blowing the acg (alt s) fuse.

So wondering if I should just start with main relay or if that's just wasting money because it's some other issue I'm overlooking.

. First, perform tests, in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563.html

I don't place much faith in bench testing Ignition Control Modules and coils--I've seen too many that pass that don't work at all. I would definitely replace those two problematic components.

. Second, perform tests below, if your main relay is still not working properly:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-7.html#post1245523

. First, perform tests, in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563.html

I don't place much faith in bench testing Ignition Control Modules and coils--I've seen too many that pass that don't work at all. I would definitely replace those two problematic components.

. Second, perform tests below, if your main relay is still not working properly:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-7.html#post1245523

Thanks I had read the first post earlier today and done several of the things in it to test. I think I'm going to try jumping the 5 & 7 conectors on relay connectors tomorrow (it clicks once when the key is put in and turned on but not the 2nd or 3rd click & check engine light doesn't go off) I have double of most parts from engine swap including a spare ecu.. I guess one of my questions is if the main relay is bad would that cause the check engine light to stay on? Will print out your other posts to make sure I don't forget anything while actually working on the car.

It could, but it's not the likely cause. More likely is ECM failure or a poor ECM ground.

Here's how to replace the ECM, if it should come to that:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post235038

It could, but it's not the likely cause. More likely is ECM failure or a poor ECM ground.

Here's how to replace the ECM, if it should come to that:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post235038


Well tested the fuel pump by briding the 5 & 7 connectors from the main relay and it came on. Going to replace that tomorrow morning (its to dark outside now to mess with car much more). I have another ecm that came with my new engine but the connections don't match up with the internal wire harness in your opinion would it be better/easier to just get a new ecm that fits my wire harness or try to hunt down one of the adapters that make a jdm ecu work in an american honda if it comes down to replacing it?

The ECM must work with the specific engine/transmission and harness. They are very unforgiving. Sounds like this issue is at the heart of your problem.

The ECM must work with the specific engine/transmission and harness. They are very unforgiving. Sounds like this issue is at the heart of your problem.


Well replaced the relay this morning was a no go popped the old ecm slapped a new one in fired right up thanks :) check engine light comes back on after it's running will have to figure out how to find out the error code for that later but first to put new brakes and suspension on the car found out today after it sitting for a few months that the brakes are froze up or sticking :(

Brakes freezing up or sticking may be fixed by greasing the caliper pins with silicone grease. Be sure to change the brake fluid, if you have not done it in the last 2 to 3 years.