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dmrlook
Apr 29, 2006, 09:03 PM
Hello everyone - I am adding a linen closet to my bathroom in a corner where I currently have a GFI outlet. Therefore, this outlet will be covered. I plan on connecting to the load side of the outlet and running some wire through the wall so that I can still easily access an outlet in the bathroom. The outlet will obviously still be GFI protected (if it trips, I can just reset it by reaching into the closet). My question is, is there a code that specifies how high above the vanity top the plug needs to be? I know it must be GFI protected since it is within 6 feet of a sink, but don't know if it needs to be a specific height above the vanity.

Any other code I need to worry about here?

Thanks,
Rob

tkrussell
Apr 30, 2006, 05:42 AM
There is no code on height of outlets, just install where it will be comfortable to use. The one in the closet may be a problem. You not only need to access it to test and reset the GFI, but there must be easy access to the device to open and access the wiring inside the box.

Reaching in to reset the GFI is fine, just need to be able to get to the wiring in the future if there is a problem.

Why don't you just splice through the wiring, cover the box with a blank plate, still leaving the box accessible, do not bury any splices, and relocate the GFI device to the new outlet location?

dmrlook
Apr 30, 2006, 07:57 AM
Why dont you just splice thru the wiring, cover the box with a blank plate, still leaving the box accessible, do not bury any splices, and relocate the GFI device to the new outlet location?


Hey tkrussell - thanks for the response. I thought about doing exactly what you said, but when I pulled the GFI outlet out of the box, I saw that it was connected to the outlet in the adjacent bathroom, as well as the overhead recessed lighting over the whirlpool tub in the bathroom I am working on. So I would need to pull a lot more wire to relocate the GFI. Can you tell me why the overhead lights would be connected to the GFI? Is that code. I was surprised to see that the bathroom fans (one in each bathroom) were not GFI protected. I live in MN and we follow the national electrical codes.

Ideally, what I would like to do is disconnect the overhead lighting from the GFI, then, just run a hot line (non-GFI protected) to the other bathroom and install a GFI there. And then I can easily follow your suggestion. Do you see a problem with this? Is there an issue if I have 2 GFI outlets on one physical circuit?

Should I consider GFI protecting the bathroom fans. My wife takes very steamy showers :-)

Finally, I noticed that when I get my ear very close to the GFI outlet I have now, I can hear faint beeping like noises. Is that normal?

Thanks for your help!
Rob

tkrussell
Apr 30, 2006, 08:15 AM
The lights only need to be GFI protected if they are directly over water(tub or shower) and can are closer that eight foot above the water, same for the exhaust fans.

The outlet in the other bathroom needs to be GFI protected, just buy another GFI device for that bathroom.

I never heard any noise from a GFI device, so not sure what to tell you about that.

dmrlook
Apr 30, 2006, 11:29 AM
The lights only need to be GFI protected if they are directly over water(tub or shower) and can are closer that eight foot above the water, same for the exhaust fans.

Darn - that means I need to GFI protect the fan. You see, I relocated the shower to a different corner of the bathroom, directly under the fan. So either I move the fan to the other corner (where the toilet now is) or I leave it and GFI it. Is there a such thing as a GFI fan? Or is there some other way of GFI protecting (aside from using a GFI outlet or a GFI breaker, which I definitely don't want to buy as the breakers are expensive) the fan. Otherwise, I will need to screw around in the attic to run a new run of wire to the fan with the GFI and switch in series - possible, but a royal pain in the butt.

Is there a such thing as a GFI switch?

Thanks,
Rob

tkrussell
Apr 30, 2006, 03:48 PM
Not that I am aware of. There is a blank or deadfront device, just has the test switches with no receptacle holes.