I am installing a central boiler outdoor wood furnace. I did not understand their hookup with pex running straight to the water to water exchanger,and then on to the furnace. I wondered what would shut the heat down when the call for heat ended. I started installation this way---------(I have forced air oil heat)
Lines run underground to house
Supply line connected to pump in basement and then to the bottom of the water to water exchanger.
Comes out of the top of water to water exchanger into a tee fitting
From the top of this fitting I go directly to the coil on the furnace
From the side of the tee fuitting, I go to a 3 way zone valve hooked to the return line
(I figured I could bypass the furnace coil this way when the call for heat ended. The bypass side of the zone valve should open at this point)
My question is if this setup is ok and also on how to hook up the zone valve and also get the fan running on the furnace when a call for heat is made. i have a manual honeywell thermostat, and a fan relay. I would like some input on if i even need the zone valve or not. I would like it if someone has this outdoor boiler and can give me information if the house gets too hot or not without having the zone valve installed,and also some input on getting the furnace fan to run. thanks in advance

First of all you better study the hand book for wood boilers. If they do not have one at the library try this as a example.

Owners Manual (http://www.palacenet.net/home/rstevens/woodfurnace/Manual/index.html)


The reason I say this is you are missing many items.

You have to be able to bleed the air out of the system with strategically located vents.
You need a safety on the boiler so it does not BLOW UP from too much pressure to high of a fire.
You can use a pump as a zone valve BUT you can never turn the pump off or stop the hot water from flowing while the boiler is burning.

These are just a few of the reasons I recommend a book for you to work from. There are just to many items that you can get into and you do not want to miss anything that might cause a hazard.

The Net has all this info for you for free just look it up.

I am installing a central boiler outdoor wood furnace. i did not understand their hookup with pex running straight to the water to water exchanger,and then on to the furnace. I wondered what would shut the heat down when the call for heat ended. I started installation this way---------(I have forced air oil heat)
Lines run underground to house
supply line connected to pump in basement and then to the bottom of the water to water exchanger.
comes out of the top of water to water exchanger into a tee fitting
from the top of this fitting I go directly to the coil on the furnace
From the side of the tee fuitting, I go to a 3 way zone valve hooked to the return line
(I figured i could bypass the furnace coil this way when the call for heat ended. The bypass side of the zone valve should open at this point)
My question is if this setup is ok and also on how to hook up the zone valve and also get the fan running on the furnace when a call for heat is made. i have a manual honeywell thermostat, and a fan relay. I would like some input on if i even need the zone valve or not. I would like it if someone has this outdoor boiler and can give me information if the house gets too hot or not without having the zone valve installed,and also some input on getting the furnace fan to run. thanks in advance
I have the necessary items needed for hookup. All is done and in order except for installing a thermostat that will control the zone valve and the fan on the existing furnace. I need to knowhow I can hook up the fan to a second thermostat so I can still use my oil furnace as a backup. I want to leve my existing thermostat alone and install one that will work with the outdoor furnace. I have a 90-113 white rodgers fan relay also. So I need wiring diagrams from thermotat to fan relay and also the 3 way zone valve(taco) so the an and zone valve will both work when a call for heat is made.

I have the necessary items needed for hookup. all is done and in order except for installing a thermostat that will control the zone valve and the fan on the existing furnace. I need to knowhow i can hook up the fan to a second thermostat so i can still use my oil furnace as a backup. I want to leve my existing thermostat alone and install one that will work with the outdoor furnace. I have a 90-113 white rodgers fan relay also. So i need wiring diagrams from thermotat to fan relay and also the 3 way zone valve(taco) so the an and zone valve will both work when a call for heat is made.

Wiring for relay.

http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/instruction_sheets/0037-5786.pdf

See attachment for valve wiring

Wiring for relay.

http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/instruction_sheets/0037-5786.pdf

See attachment for valve wiring


THank you for the quick response. I do have that diagram for the white rodgers. I think the screw terminal side is for 115 and the other side has 3 wires coming out of it---red,brown,and black. I take it this is the 24 volt side. I wanted to know what color wires to use. I also have a diagram of the 3 way zone valve from central boiler. Just wondering what wires go where from the thermostat to the zone valve and then to the fan on my existing furnace. I want the existing furnace fan to come on when a call for heat and also the zone valve to open. I want them both to stop/shut when the call for heat has ended. Central boiler shows--------thermostat for zone valve with a transformer in between the thermostat and the valve,, they don't show any fan hookups on my existig furnace.
They also show existing thermostat hooked into a second themostat(outdoor boiler) w/red going to red,and white from the 2nd thermostat coming back to existing thermostat on the G terminal----they note: for system to work properly 3 wires required on existing thermostat--the G terminal must be connected to fan relay. My problem with this is that I have just the 2 wires connected to the furnce(red/white). There are no other terminals board on my beckett burner. They are enclosed within the burner. I am wondering if I could get the 2 thermostats hooked together if then I could just wie across from the furnace red/white to the zone valve somehow. I am probably making everything more confusing. I have many different diagrams in front of me but none that give the system complete from thermostat to furnace.

This is something that had to be done ON SITE and not in this form.

I just completed the very same hookup you are doing, oil furnace with hot water coil in it ,used a two stage thermostat, not hard, now that I know more about two stage t-stats
Email me if you don't get it figured out

If so just post all the wiring diagrams for this person and all others that might anticipate this type of project. No need to email since I am sure many others would also appreciate this information be posted here since it will make it simple to find for everyone. Naturally that is if you really have all the info you speak of. Also please be sure to show all the safety devices required by the code for equipment protection and life safety. Thank you

If so just post all the wiring diagrams for this person and all others that might anticipate this type of project. No need to email since I am sure many others would also appreciate this information be posted here since it will make it simple to find for everyone. Naturally that is if you really have all the info you speak of. Also please be sure to show all the safety devices required by the code for equipment protection and life safety. Thank you
HVAC1000
I will post this Diagram when I get a chance, them you can tell me whether it passes code and safety requirements, although I am fairly sure I did everything right, I sure don't want one of my customers houses burning down because of something I did, I am pretty sure my insurance company wouldn't like that either, Thank you for your input ahead of time. ( and please tone down the attitude, I don't appreciate being spoke to in this manner "that is if you really have all the info you speak of" )

HVAC1000
I will post this Diagram when I get a chance, them you can tell me whether it passes code and safety requirements, although I am fairly sure I did everything right, I sure don't want one of my customers houses burning down because of something I did, I am pretty sure my insurance company wouldn't like that either, Thank you for your input ahead of time. ( and please tone down the attitude, I don't appreciate being spoke to in this manner "that is if you really have all the info you speak of" )



( and please tone down the attitude, I don't appreciate being spoke to in this manner "that is if you really have all the info you speak of" )


What a shame it is that you have a problem with my attitude. Many people post here about all there great solutions and then never follow through with the goods. I thought I was being polite to you. If that little statement upset you then you cannot possibly be in the HVAC trade or any other trade for that matter. Tradesmen are a pretty tuff bunch.
A challenge is a challenge in any type of language. If you got um post um and if you do not that is the way it goes. As far as code is concerned that is for the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) in your area to decide but if something is really unsafe I will try to let you know without hurting your feelings. A large percentage of the work done in this area is inspected and approved so the homeowner can collect there insurance just in case there is a fire or other calamity.

Everyone who posts here is just trying to help the other person out in there time of need but we all need to be aware that some information improperly dispensed can get the person we are trying to help into more trouble than they had to start with. LOL
Once again sorry if I hurt your feelings. I will be more careful in the future:(

I just finished hooking a Central Boiler to two furnaces at my son's home. Direct from Central Boiler--You should NOT stop the heated water from the wood furnace from circulating through the water to water exchanger. The heat exchanger should be plumbed in so the heated water from the outside heat source is CONSTANTLY moving through the original furnace's heat exchanger. The temperature on the original furnace should be turned down to about 140F so that if the heat source outside stops or drops below the prescribed temperature, the indoor furnace(original heating source) can operate without user interference (you should not have to attend to it if the outside source goes out). The idea of the outdoor furnace is to provide a constant source of heat and in order for the outdoor furnace to operate efficiently, there must be a constant minimum demand for heat.
Hooking these bad boys is tricky if you have a general idea of heating systems but if you have very limited knowledge, they are not for the DIYer's.