More questions from the basement bathroom from hell!

So, our plumber got everything back in working order. We replaced the mess under the tub, vented the whole nightmare and installed some functional traps all around, so my family is once again safe.

We had to remove the toilet tank in order to get at the drain pipes behind it. In so doing, we realized that the toilet tank doesn't actually fit. That is to say, the "rough in" space is roughly 11", but they used a toilet with a 12" rough in. So, how did they fix it? Much like everything else, they simply leaned the tank forward a little bit, and fortunately it hasn't leaked, but I'd like to fix this more permanently.

I noticed that a number of manufacturers make 10" rough in toilets, including American Standard. It seems like the base remains the same, but it just employs a different tank, is that correct?

So, would it be possible to replace the 12" rough in tank on my Glacier Bay 1.6 GPF toilet bowl with a 10" rough in tank from say a 1.6 GPF American Standard Cadet toilet, while leaving the bowl in place?

I guess it would depend on if the holes matched up, but assuming they do, would this work?

Thanks!

You have some play in the slots on the flange. Why not simply pull the bowl forwarg as much as you can and see if the tank sets better that way.
Sound like a plan? Cheers, Tom

I gave that a try, seems like they've already done that and gotten as much room as they can out of it.

Wouldn't it be much cheaper to change the flange to a 1 1/2" offset flange then to purchase a new toilet.

I noticed that a number of manufacturers make 10" rough in toilets, including American Standard. It seems like the base remains the same, but it just employs a different tank, is that correct?
Ya got it backwards Stubby! The tanks remain the same while it's the bowl that roughs in differently. You have been through a major remodel. Kudos for hanging in there. Looks like it's winding down. Hope everything came out to your satisfaction. Tom

Tom-

I never even thought of changing the flange. How complicated is this? Is this something I could do myself? Would it mess up the current tile job?

Here is an American Standard spec sheet for their Colony toilet, at least on this one it seems as though the bowl stays the same and just the tank gets thinner? Would something like this work?

I think I forgot to include the attachment. Any thoughts?

on this one it seems as though the bowl stays the same and just the tank gets thinner? Would something like this work?
NO! A 10" rough in means just that! 10 inches between the wall and the center of the bowl outlet. The tank remains the same. Do the math. A tank holds 1.6 gallons. If you make it thinner it would cut the volume back reducing the flush. If you will enlarge the 10" diagram and look at the dimension way at the bottom showing the distance between the center of the bowl and the wall you will see where the 10 inches come it. It Isn't the tank that gives you the 10 inch rough it's the bowl.

I never even thought of changing the flange. How complicated is this? Is this something I could do myself? Would it mess up the current tile job?
It would depend on the material your pipes are made of. You cut out the old flange and install a 1 1/2" offset closet flange,(see image) thus saving yourself big $ over purchasing a unneeded 10" new toilet. The bowl would cover any tile you would have to chip out to install the offset flange.
Ask your plumber which would be the best choice. Good luck and if that's your biggest concern then your remodel's almost done. Tom

I am thinking it could be difficult because it is likely a cast iron flange in a cement slab floor. Does that make it harder to do?

I am thinking it could be difficult because it is likely a cast iron flange in a cement slab floor. Does that make it harder to do?
For me it would actually be a little easier. Your closet flange is secured by a lead and oakum poured joint. All I would do is take a 3/8" drill bit and drill a few holes down past the lead and into the oakum.. Push a screwdriver under the lead ring and lever it up. Once it's free you can began to peel the lead ring out. Now pick out the oakum and you can pull the joint apart and the olod flange out. I would then yarn, pour and caulk in the new lead and oakum joint in the new offset flange. Less then a hours labor if you have the skills and the tools. Anoither way to go is to locate a 10" bowl that fits your present tank and install the 10" bowl. Your choice. Good luck, tom