View Full Version : Kenmore Elite Catalyst Washing Machine doesn't spin
Apr 2, 2006, 11:57 AM
I'm not sure if I have the correct model number. Nothing on back of washer. Under lid: SM 9710768-C. This is a Kenmore Elite Catalyst heavy duty, top load, king size capacity, ultra quiet pak, 3 speed motor with 6 speed combinations washing machine. I've tried both spin speeds, but neither work. The agitate cycle works at slow and extra slow speed. I haven't tried the fast speed. Spin does not work at slow or fast speed. It does drain, though. The lid switch does click when opened and closed and stops the draining if opened during draining. The spinning light does light during the spin cycle, but machine doesn't spin. Any ideas of anything we can try to repair ourselves? I'm so tired of wringing out jeans by hand!! Thanks!!
Apr 2, 2006, 09:10 PM
The Catalyst washer, built by Whirlpool, is basically the same as any other Whirlpool direct drive washer, it just has flushed dispensers under the lid. It sounds to me like you have a broken drive coupler. A drive coupler is the equivalent of a belt, since this washer doesn't have a belt. It is the mechanical connection between the drive motor and the transmission. In order to gain access to this, the cabinet, pump, and drive motor must be removed. Due to the flushed dispensers, this is not as easy as other washers. If you think you could do it, I can try to walk you through it. By the way, that's not a Kenmore model number. Kenmore laundry built by Whirlpool usually has a model number that begins with "110.". The model really shouldn't be necessary in this case, due to the problem and your description. The part usually costs less than 25.00, but will take a novice about an hour to figure out how to replace it.
Apr 2, 2006, 09:23 PM
Thanks so much! We would love your help. My husband has worked on appliances some, so he should be able to do it with your direction. We really, really appreciate your help.
Apr 3, 2006, 06:04 PM
Wait a minute... I forgot you said that it does agitate. If the agitator does move, then the coupler isn't broken. The coupler mates the motor to the transmission, so when it breaks, the machine will fill and drain, but no transmission function works (agitate or spin). I am now thinking you may have a transmission problem. Does it make any strange noises when it's supposed to be spinning? When it's agitating? You said you're tired of wringing out the jeans; does the machine work better with lighter loads or even empty? I may need that model number after all.
Apr 3, 2006, 06:18 PM
As far as I have noticed, there are no strange noises when it agitates or spins. I stood right beside it day before yesterday through three cycles and I didn't notice any unusual noises then. I just hear the water draining when it should be spinning, but of course, no spinning is taking place. I have not tried it empty, but we have tried it with all different kinds of loads and different water levels--mostly so we wouldn't have as much water to wring out!--but it hasn't made any difference, just more soap left in if we don't use much water. Should I try it empty? Also, where would we find the model number? Inside? Thanks again.
Apr 3, 2006, 06:27 PM
Usually the model number is on a sticker under the lid on the machine's top. I would like to have the model before I add anything else. Thanks.
Apr 3, 2006, 06:58 PM
Found it. It's 110. 20072 991. Hope that helps.
Apr 3, 2006, 07:22 PM
It's my bet that the problem is in the transmission. This job requires special tools that 99% of the public doesn't have and can't get very easily. I recommend a service technician to repair it. The warranty on this transmission should be 5 years for the part itself, with the owner paying all other costs, including service call, labor, etc. Fortunately, this part can be changed in about 30 minutes, so it shouldn't be too expensive if the part is under warranty. If not, the part usually costs about 165.00 to 180.00, and that's a judgement call only you can make. Good luck.
Apr 3, 2006, 08:06 PM
Thank you for your help.
Apr 7, 2006, 07:09 PM
Applguy, would you be able to give us the directions on replacing the coupler? Thanks!
Apr 9, 2006, 04:55 PM
I sure could. Is it not agitating either?
Apr 9, 2006, 06:04 PM
It is agitating. My husband has the washer almost all the way apart, just wondering if you can give us some pointers on replacing the coupler and transmission. Thanks!
Apr 9, 2006, 06:53 PM
To replace the transmission, all of this must be done: cabinet off, agitator and spacer clips (1 metal, 1 plastic) out, pump off, motor off. Then there are 3 bolts that secure the transmission to the chassis. Tip the machine on an angle to the back, remove the 3 bolts, and the transmission will pull straight out. The new transmission will not come with the motor mounting plate, coupler, or clutch. These parts must be transferred from the old transmission. To remove the clutch, lift off the round metal washer at the base of the output shaft. Then remove the "E" clip and then pry out the wire-looking clip (loose end first) from the inside edge of the 4 tabs. The clutch will now lift off; make sure to retain the plastic insert. Reinstall the parts in the reverse order on the new transmission. Clear the breather hole in the top of the transmission (arrow pointing to it) with a needle or straightened paper clip. Transfer motor mount plate (I usually re-install it upside down from the way it was on the old tranny) and install the new coupler. Gently tap the coupler onto the input shaft until it is flush (I use a ratchet extension so as not to break the coupler with the hammer). Apply small amount of grease to output shaft and slide back into chassis. Assemble in reverse order from this point. Make sure to reinstall the plastic and metal spacer clips before installing the agitator. Once cabinet is back on and machine is back in place, lift the back of the machine up and down to reset the rear leveling legs. Any further questions are certainly welcome.
Apr 9, 2006, 07:35 PM
Thank you so much!
Jun 8, 2006, 07:30 PM
Came across this thread and I have a similar problem with the same washer. Washer still works, but makes a loud whiny noise while agitating. After speaking with a Sears rep for more than 30min (and who kept trying to refer me to a DIY website rather than honor my warranty), I gave up and decided to DIM. Yes, I'm venting.
To the point - I took off the control panel, but now can't figure out how to remove the top (or front) of the cabinet. Can you assist? Beer for you in advance!
Jun 8, 2006, 09:31 PM
Did you take the console off or did you rotate it backwards? Once the control panel is pivoted over backwards, use a small flat screwdriver to pry the brass-colored cabinet clamps (one on each side attaching cabinet top to rear panel of machine, insert screwdriver in front of hole... then push rearward to release). Disconnect lid switch harness from connector coming through top of machine. Pivot top of machine cabinet towards you to a 45 degree angle and pull away from machine. Notice bottom flange of cabinet goes under washer frame and the side cabinet flanges go on top of washer frame (small alignment tabs at all four corners... don't bend them over). Once cabinet is off, you will see the pump mounted vertically in front of motor. If the machine is whining during agitation, most likely you have a bad pump or something in the pump. Sometimes strings, etc will wrap around pump seal so tightly you can't see it. Large flat blade screwdriver should enable you to turn the pump... should turn easily. If you can't find anything wrong with it, you can leave the pump off the motor and fill the machine so it will agitate to see if the noise is gone when the pump isn't attached. Keep in mind, the machine will not spin or drain as long as the lid switch isn't connected to the machine harness because the cabinet is off. You can reinstall the cabinet to connect lid switch to drain unit out once test is done (re-install pump of course so it drains). If noise is gone, replace pump. There are only two pumps for this washer (model dependent) so just take yours with you when you go get another one. Anyone that services Whirlpool or Kenmore appliances will have plenty on hand. Lid switch placement and connections have recently changed, so if it's really new the lid switch is on top of the machine top, and also the lid switch must be connected for any machine function (harder to service must have been the goal, he he). If anything doesn't look right, include the model number and let me know.
Jul 22, 2006, 12:42 PM
I have the same problem as SerTam but a different model #. It is 110.22032100. The only additional difference is that very occasionally the spinning works. But it is rare. Are there any significant differences in your answers for this model? Your help is very appreciated.
Jul 26, 2006, 09:58 PM
I've been impressed with your answers so far and really hope you can help me. Our kenmore elite catalyst, model 110.20056993, washer looks like it got overloaded and quit while it was full of water with 18min left. I took out everything and tried restarting it. Siphoned out the water, unplugged/plugged it back in and restarted it with nothing in it a few times trying different wash settings. It fills and makes the normal clicking sounds, but no motor sound, no spin and no draining, I siponed out the water a few times to keep trying. It also seems to quit with 12 to 18 min remaining and just hangs there.
I hope you can help and thanks for anything you can offer,
Sep 14, 2006, 08:36 AM
I'm having the same problems w/ my Kenmore elite Catalyst, the model number is 110.20056993 also. I have already replaced the motor once to fix this problem and it's returned only 1 1/2 years later. We don't overload this machine, and the coupler isn't breaking--the motor just stops. This seems like a manufacturing defect to me. Is there anything I can do besides throw this thing away and avoid buying Kenmore?
Sep 23, 2006, 11:57 AM
I'm having problems with the lid switch on my elite washer, you open/close the lid, press down on it in several places a few times and then the machine will work OK. I read previously that you described how to open up the cabinet - which would give me access to the switch once I had the control panel pivoted backwards - can you give me the steps required to pivot the control panel backwards? I'm a little nervous about prying and pushing things without knowing how they are supposed to work and don't need to replace yet another part on the machine I might break from going about doing something in the wrong way.
Dec 4, 2006, 06:43 PM
The problem more than likely is a plastic/nylon piece that attaches to the bottom of the spin tub. It is held in place with a 'C' clip. When you remove the motor you will see that the part is probably broken. You can buy a kit from Sear's for about $25 dollars and P/N 285790 and is called Band and Lining Clutch (Brake lining kit) I only replace the plastic piece if the brake lining looks okay. No sense in possibly causing more problems. Heck of a price for a simple piece of plastic.
Dec 20, 2006, 02:14 PM
I have a similar problem it seems my parents Kenmore 110.81821100 (it's old I know) will not drain and the tub will not spin. It does agitate though. When it gets to the part where it should spin and drain it just stops there is no noise no nothing.
What should I do to try to remedy this situation?
All help is aprreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Feb 7, 2007, 09:15 AM
I have a Kenmore top loading washer that agitated and pumped water, but wouldn't spin although the motor was working. I checked the coupler and it was fine. With visions of expensive transmission repairs, I called the Sears technician. He found my kid's puppet trapped between the drum and the plastic tub surrounding it, which prevented the drum from spinning. He said socks sometimes do that too. One less puppet later, it works fine. Just something to check for. Good luck!
Jul 25, 2007, 12:51 PM
I'm not sure if I have the correct model number. Nothing on back of washer. Under lid: SM 9710768-C. This is a Kenmore Elite Catalyst heavy duty, top load, king size capacity, ultra quiet pak, 3 speed motor with 6 speed combinations washing machine. I've tried both spin speeds, but neither work. The agitate cycle works at slow and extra slow speed. I haven't tried the fast speed. Spin does not work at slow or fast speed. It does drain, though. The lid switch does click when opened and closed and stops the draining if opened during draining. The spinning light does light during the spin cycle, but machine doesn't spin. Any ideas of anything we can try to repair ourselves? I'm so tired of wringing out jeans by hand!!! Thanks!!!
The spin cycle does not work on our Kenmore Elite 3-speed automatic washing machine
Oct 7, 2007, 07:38 PM
I have a similar problem it seems my parents Kenmore will not drain and the tub will not spin. It does agitate though. When it gets to the part where it should spin and drain it just stops there is no noise no nothing.
I have the same problem.
It agitates fine, but when it gets to the drain/spin part, it just stops. I don't hear the motor or anything. It does not drain either. The dial just stops when it gets to "spin." I have tried all the different "spin" settings on the dial but none of them work.
It is not overloaded and there is nothing jamming the spindle. Never had any problems with it. It worked fine up until today.
The model # is 110.26712693
Please help. Got lots of wet clothes. Thanks in advance.
Oct 7, 2007, 08:04 PM
I figured out the answer to my own question. The lid switch was broken, but you couldn't tell just by pushing your finger down in the lid switch through the small hole. I had to feel my hand up between the metal cover of the washing machine and the top of the plastic tub and it was loose. It turns out that the plastic anchor on the switch that the screw screws into detached from the switch itself.
I wrapped some rubber bands around the switch to hold it while the cycle finished.
Can someone tell me the model number for the replacement switch I need? If not, I will call Sears or Kenmore and find out myself.
Thanks! I hope this helps out someone else.
Jan 10, 2008, 11:39 PM
I have the same problem w/a Kenmore 110.23032101 washer. My husband and I took it all apart and replace the coupler and put everything back together. However, we are stumped at putting the 'cabinet clips' back on. We cannot get them back in place or we manage to get one on and move to the other side and the first pops off. There has got to be a 'trick'. Please help!
Jun 4, 2008, 04:19 PM
I have a kenmore front loader model 4174104200 and it is not spinning or drain the water out. I want to try to fix myself. Looking for some help
Jan 4, 2009, 05:19 PM
THERE IS A SIMPLER SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM. The drum sit on a aluminum support that works like a sheer pin. When loads exceeds machine capacity for too long, the hooks on the aluminum supports breaks leaving the drum loose. If the machine drains, agitates then this is the problem.
Jul 12, 2009, 02:21 PM
I have a Kenmore Elite washing mashine Model# 20954994. It fills water and egitates at the same time at starts only. It runs the whple cycle fine as spose to. Please help.
Jul 12, 2009, 02:22 PM
Kenmore elite fill water and egitate
Aug 2, 2010, 09:16 PM
88% You have a sock stuck between the basket and the tub acting as a brake
Aug 2, 2010, 09:18 PM
88% you have a sock stuck between the basket and the tub acting as a brake