Hello, After 3 days we have deduced that our fan motor was bad. I purchased a new one today.

We were told to get another capacitor, and to leave the old one connected as it ran the compressor?

the old motor had 3 wires. Black, Orange, and brown.

the orange and brown are going into the capacitor.

the new motor has 4 wires. Black, white, brown, brown/white


I have been googling and I am lost.

The place where I bought the new motor, told me this

Black = black
White = Orange
And browns go to the capacitor.

BUt he didn't say WHICH the old or the new.

We are just confused and hot, which wires go to the old capacitor? And which go into the new one?


The old was a 5 and the new is 7.5

Also it is a 4 ton rheem. We had an AC guy come out and after trial and error he told us it was the fan motor.

Brown and brown white go to the cap. Other to go to the contactor. The old cap should have a wire that goes to the compressor marked (HERM) and a common that will go back to the contactor, add the new cap, hook the two brown wires from the new fan motor, one on each side, black and white wires go to the contactor where the old orange and black wires were hooked up.

OK so the black is hot. The SOlid White goes to the "OLD" one where the Orange wire was?


Just want to make sure cause if hubby burns up this motor we are in for a HOT night.

Yeah, balck and white are both hot legs, hook the white wire where the orange wire was, hook the black wire where the black wire was

The only thing different is the two brown wires from the new fan motor are going to the new cap.

Well : I have to guess also a little, as there is not enough information to provide a sure reply.

You stated : "the old motor had 3 wires. Black, Orange, and brown. The orange and brown are going into the capacitor".

That would be one wire short. If orange and brown only go to the capacitor, all that remains to power the motor is the black wire. Where is the second power wire connected to? It seems that the black wire is the "hot" wire, while the orange wire is (or is connected to) a neutral wire. There should be somewhere another orange or white wire, either at the capacitor or at the motor.

Note 1 : Normally power is connected to one side of the capacitor : when power is connected to one side of the capacitor the motor will turn clockwise, but when power is connected to the other side the motor will turn anti-clockwise.

===

You stated : "the new motor has 4 wires. Black, white, brown, brown/white"
And also : "The place where I bought the new motor, told me Black = black.
White = Orange. And browns go to the capacitor ".

In that case black is hot , white is neutral, and the browns are going to the capacitor. Just make sure that there is no third wire connected to the capacitor (as possibly is done in the old configuration!)

Note 2 : the white wire is actually the orange wire in the old configuration.
As stated : somewhere a neutral wire must be connected to the system. In the old system that was the orange wire, or connected to the orange wire. In the new system the neutral goes to the white wire.

Hope this helps ! Success !

:)

Thank you so much.. its 92 in our house right now.

One more question if you could.

We had a LMT that controlled the time delay. The first AC repair guy said the LMT was the cause of our unit shutting off. The electric company came out and removed the LMT.

Now we do not have a time delay on our Unit. I bought one today. And the guy said it was easy to install. However hubby doesn't see where to install it. Any Ideas?

Is it 24 volt? Most of the new digital thermostats have time delay built in. What type of a stat do you have?

We have a digital thermostat inside. But this is a 5 minute time delay that is for the outside unit. To be mounted inside of the unit.

I will run outside and ask about the voltage

Well : I have to guess also a little, as there is not enough information to provide a sure reply.

You stated : "the old motor had 3 wires. Black, Orange, and brown. The orange and brown are going into the capacitor".

That would be one wire short. If orange and brown only go to the capacitor, all that remains to power the motor is the black wire. Where is the second power wire connected to? It seems that the black wire is the "hot" wire, while the orange wire is (or is connected to) a neutral wire. There should be somewhere another orange or white wire, either at the capacitor or at the motor.

Note 1 : Normally power is connected to one side of the capacitor : when power is connected to one side of the capacitor the motor will turn clockwise, but when power is connected to the other side the motor will turn anti-clockwise.

===

You stated : "the new motor has 4 wires. Black, white, brown, brown/white"
And also : "The place where I bought the new motor, told me Black = black.
White = Orange. And browns go to the capacitor ".

In that case black is hot , white is neutral, and the browns are going to the capacitor. Just make sure that there is no third wire connected to the capacitor (as possibly is done in the old configuration!)

Note 2 : the white wire is actually the orange wire in the old configuration.
As stated : somewhere a neutral wire must be connected to the system. In the old system that was the orange wire, or connected to the orange wire. In the new system the neutral goes to the white wire.

Hope this helps ! Success !

:)
The orange wire was being fed by the common terminal on the ol cap, this is a pretty common practice with many brands.

I would focus on getting your air on first, add the time delay later

This is for power surges. Said to mount timer in control panel, connect wires to relay.

Which wires. There are 2 yellow (different shades) of wires that have wire caps on them. No other wires are just there without being coneected to anything

The control panel is the electrical compartment on the air cond. Unit. What is the voltage on the delay?

If it is 24 volt, just break the thermostat wire that has 24 volts on it coming into the unit.

Its says input for 1 wire, and Load for the other wire.

This is a delay for the breaker. 240 volt

Linebacker
Solid Stae
Delay TImer
Fixed 5 Min
Short Cycle Protection - single Phase
Pro.no.EAC - 501-300 (18-288VAC0
Delay on break


That is what it says on the package

So you need to break one leg of the power feeding the unit, either at the breaker box or the unit.

Right, to protect the unit from the power surges.


But hubby does not know where it installs. Since there was not one on it before.

Mount it on the inside of the unit, shut the power off, cut one of the main power wires, connent the side coming in to input and the other to load.

How would you install it? Instead of giving a "bad rating", offer some advice smart guy.

The compressor delay is very easy to install. Since it says 18-288 VAC it can be installed in the thermostat line. Where? Just about anywhere. Inside or outside. They generally need a little bit of a heatsink.

Th load side is the side toward the relay. It doesn't matter which wire to the relay is interrupted.

The short cycle relay protects your fuse and/or breaker when the power or the stat is turned on and off quickly. In electronic stats, this delay is usually built in. In the mechanical stats it was easy to destroy a fuse block when a short power fail occurred. It helps your compressor too.

Why couldn't it be installed on the line voltage exactly?

It likely can't pass 40-60 Amps of current. It needs to be on the control side.

It says 1 amp max on the box. Hubby just gave up on that for tonight. He has a headache from the fan and those wires. This is the first time that he has ever worked on an AC unit. Aside from cleaning it. But when we got a quote of $550, he had to give it a try. All the parts today $106. Also, we wouldn't need the time delay, had the AC guy not blamed the LMT for our problem.


Another HUGE thank you for your help. I don't think I can say thank you enough.

The fan is installed and running. It is blowing cold air, and should cool off hopefully by the time we head to bed.

What is the relay? How would he identify it inside the control panel?

it says 1 amp max on the box. Hubby just gave up on that for tonight. He has a headache from the fan and those wires. This is the first time that he has ever worked on an AC unit. Aside from cleaning it. But when we got a quote of $550, he had to give it a try. All the parts today $106. Also, we wouldnt need the time delay, had the AC guy not blamed the LMT for our problem.


Another HUGE thank you for your help. I dont think I can say thank you enough.

The fan is installed and running. It is blowing cold air, and should cool off hopefully by the time we head to bed.


Your welcome. Sorry but the other guy is right, it does need to be installed in the control circuit, if it is only rated at 1 amp. Just simply break the 24 volt thermostat wire where it comes into the unit.

I think the "relay" you are talking about is the contactor?

Not really sure either. I am glad I founf this site. I am positive I will be back tomorrow when I have more time to look around at the other categories.

Also, if I wanted to support a member, does the donated money go directly to that member or to the site?

Not sure how the "support a member" works. This is a great site.

The outdoor unit has a power cable and a t-stat cable. The t-stat cable goes directly to the coil of the relay/contactor. That same thing you were near when you installed the fan motor. It goes click when the outdoor unit goes on.

The short-cycle delay gizmo inserts between either of those wires with the load side of the gizmo toward the relay.

"Support this member" goes directly to the member.

Hvacservice:

I was composing a response after I gave you the bad rating. You just saw the rating before the response.

Sometimes when reading through responses, things don't seem to make sense. When that happens look at the post times.