We've have a well and water pressure has not been the best for the last few years for our outdoor faucet. Inside we've not really had any issues unless the planets align and a couple toilets flush while someone is showering and load of wash goes to rinse. The only place I have seen a consistent problem is with our outside faucet.

When running a hose to water plants you can see and feel the pressure drop and then pick back up. Sometimes to the point where it is heavy trickle for a few seconds before it picks back up. The pressure definitely swings from very good for couple minutes to average for 10 or so minutes to poor for a couple minutes then cycles back again. Tonight I watered everything and in the course of 30 to 45 minutes I had the cycle go through twice. Normally the pressure is average when you first turn on the hose.

I read online about adjusting pressure and some other issues. I checked the gauge and it was around 30psi. I checked an hour later and found it at about 40psi. A few minutes later it was up to 60 and over the next half hour worked its way down around 38psi. At this point I started our dishwasher.

I went down and checked the gauge and it was around 45psi and climbing and the pump was running. In the next 30 seconds or so it reached almost 60psi, climbed a bit more then suddenly shot all the way up to the gauge max of 100psi and the pump stopped. I came back about 10 minutes later and the gauge was just below 60psi. Over the next 30 minutes it slowly dropped back to 40s psi.

I tried to recreate this and between running a faucet and flushing a toilet got the pump to kick back on at 32psi. Again it reached almost 60psi and then shot up. This time it only reached 90psi, sat there for a few seconds, and then shut off.

Any suggestions? Thanks, Jim

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I went down and checked the gauge and it was around 45psi and climbing and the pump was running. In the next 30 seconds or so it reached almost 60psi, climbed a bit more then suddenly shot all the way up to the gauge max of 100psi and the pump stopped. I came back about 10 minutes later and the gauge was just below 60psi. Over the next 30 minutes it slowly dropped back to 40s psi.

Was any water being used while the pressure was droping?

Do you have a pressure tank or a bladder tank?

Probably time for a new switch. Sounds like your points are sticking together. 100 psi is dangerous for a pressure tank. You should have a pressure release valve that trips before that time. The ones I am familiar with are preset to 75#. Here is a sample:

Campbell RV2N Tank Pressure Relief Valve (http://www.drillspot.com/products/114825/Campbell_RV2N_Tank_Pressure_Relief_Valve)

Replacing the switch is cheap and not difficult if you are comfortable working with electrical matters. The key is to turn off the breaker before you start, label the wires as you remove them as to location, and replace them in the same positions on the new switch. Here is a sample:

Square D 9013FSG2J21 Water Pump Pressure Switch (http://www.drillspot.com/products/42938/Square_D_9013FSG2J21_Water_Pump_Pressure_Switch)

Of course, it is also possible that you have a defective gauge. 100 psi would be very noticeable at any faucet. If you have an air valve at the top of your tank, and you probably do, then use a tire gauge a few times to verify your gauge. OR, simply replace it with a new one for a few bucks.

I do not believe any water was being used while the pressure dropped. However, we do have a reverse osmosis water filter under our kitchen sink that periodically flushes and refills. I also forgot to mention that we have conditioner for our water as well as a filter. All of these are located after the gauge.

I do not know the type of tank. It was installed by the builder for the original owners and it is completely wrapped except for the top. The top has a what looks like a hex nut, about 5/8", welded on the top and it was hidden under a cheap plastic cap. There is also what looks like a screw cap near the edge on the top that has a "warning do not remove or warranty void" warning.

While I saw the pressure go very high 2 times I did not notice anything way out of line while watering outside and no issues with faucets. The times when the hose had the best pressure was comparable to what a normal hose should have all the time.

The tank is about 10 or 11 years old.

I'm comfortable replacing a relief valve and pressure switch but I am not sure how to turn off the water. The only shut off valve I see is after the gauge.

From what I read online there should be about a 20psi difference for where the pump operates and cuts in. Since ours seems to have a 30psi difference, other than the peaks, should I be concerned about that or deal with replacing the switch first?

Does any of this help.

I just checked and the pressure relief valve looks like it is completely oxidized. Do I just unscrew it and insert the new one? Like I wrote before I do not see how to shut off the water before hand. Or is it that with no power to the pump there will be no water in the line coming in to the house?

Do you have something that looks like the valve on an auto tire, for pressurising the tank. If you have a bladder tank the pressure is set 2 lbs below cut-in pressure, not 20. This is done with the tank empty. If you have a bladder tank you will have the valve for charging the tank.

To releave the pressure, turn off pump and open faucet before attempting to change relief valve. Beginning to sound like you have a pressure tank that is water logged (no air valve) and a leaking check valve. Turn off pump and use no water. Watch pressure gauge to see it tank holds pressure.

Underneath the cap that had the warning about voiding the warranty if removed was a air valve. I checked with a tire gauge and it read 47 psi while the gauge at the bottom of the tank read 52 psi. this was done with the tank full of water.

If the tank is water logged does this mean I need to replace the tank?

I turned off the breaker and I am now waiting to see if the pressure drops. From what I saw last night we do lose pressure with no water running but that was with the pump on.

The check valve is the same thing as the relief valve, correct?

After 5 minutes of the pump off the pressure has dropped from 52 psi to just a hair below 52 psi.

Something I have noticed is that both with and without the pump running I can see the gauge needle waiver ever so slightly almost constantly.

The gauge has now dropped to 50 psi after 10 minutes without the well pump on. I took off the insulating wrap on the tank and see nothing as far as the type of tank just the manufacturer.

There are no air fittings on the tank other than the one on the top. The gauge I am reading is mounted to a pipe after the pump pressure switch.

If this wa a bladder tank wouldn't there be a valve on the side of the tank?

No check valve is not pressure relief valve. Pressure relief is valve that lets pressure out if it gets too high. A safety device. Check valve is valve that prevents water from going back down the well when pump shuts off. Can be on surface or can be at pump down in the well. Wait to see if water goes back down the well.

A pressure tank, non bladder tank, can get water logged. Water will absorb air. Over a period, the water in and passing through the tank can absorb the air in the tank. You cannot compress water. As the tank is being filled with water the air in the tank is compressed. If the tank has no air in it and is completely filled with water the pressure will shoot up dramatically. When a little water is released the pressure will drop dramatically. A bladder tank keeps the air and the water separated to prevent this. You could however have a leaking or a ruptured bladder. A bladder tank with a ruptured bladder will act like a pressure tank with no bladder. If you have a water logged pressure tank you periodically (once a year) drain the tank and let it refill with air.

Sounds like you have a bladder tank. You should pressurize it with the tank empty of water. To completely empty tank open faucet (with pump off) ,after all water has drain, open relief valve to let air in and remainder of water out faucet. If you have a bladder tank and the bladder is good there should be no more water coming out at this point.

Check pressure, should be 2 lbs below pump cut-in pressure setting.

How big is tank. You see no valve like you have on tire? Wait more time.
Check that, you said you checked pressure with tire gauge, you have bladder tank.

How do you pressurize the tank? Just hook up a compressor to the valve on top of the tank?

The cut-in pressure is the point where the pump kicks in, correct? That seems to be 32 psi. So then I need to get the pressure in the tank, reading with a tire gauge at the valve on the top of the tank, to 30 psi? Right now that pressure is 47 psi. Will that drop once the tank is drained?

Yes you pump up with compressor just like tire. Yes the pressure will go down as water is being used. Wait to see if pressure continues to drop. Right now not sure if pressure gauge is defective or check valve is leaking. Check with tire gauge again.

Just reread you original post. After verifying that you pump and well are function properly, remove the valve stem of the outside faucet, turn on water and flush valve body. If you have a stop valve in that line as you typically have for a outside faucet, remove the stem from it and flush also. You could have something blocking the flow. If so it would be at a valve.

VLF, understand one thing. If your tank is indeed going to 100 psi, or 90 psi, then that is your #1 problem. Don't worry about tanks or check valves until you solve that problem. The key to that problem is the switch.

HK is entirely correct about your tank. If you want to check for water, hold the air valve down for two or three seconds. If water comes out, then that's bad.

If your relief valve is oxidized, then it might be bad. For 10 bucks or so, I'd replace it. If yours looks like the one at the site I sent you, it just unscrews to remove/replace. Turn the breaker off to your system, drain off the pressure, replace the valve. Just that simple.

OK, I bought both a switch and a relief valve.

When you say "drain off pressure" do you mean to drain the tank of all water and then drain the air out through the valve on top of the tank?

Thank you both for your help. I really appreciate it.

Jim

Did you tank continue to loose pressure?

The tank continued to slowly loose pressure with the breaker off... but no faster than when the pump breaker was on.

Yes, drain the tank of water simply by opening an outside faucet. Otherwise, when you take off the old relief valve, you will be met with a stream of water. While everything is off, replace the switch as well. It is not difficult. Make sure the power is off. Remove the wires (note where they go!), then unscrew the switch from the little pipe behind it. Check the little pipe to make sure it's clear, then screw on the new switch. Replace the wires as they were on the old switch. Before you turn the power back on, check the pressure at the top of the tank. It should be 2# BELOW the cut in point for the new switch. Most new switches are preset to 20/40 or to 30/50, though you can usually adjust this later on if you would like to. So if your new switch is 30/50, then you will set the tank pressure to 28#. Turn the power back on and make sure the pump is cutting on/off at the correct points.

At this point you will be able to track down HK's suspicion of a leaking check valve, which is certainly a valid concern. Do bear in mind that a leak between the tank and your house can also cause pressure to drop slowly.