My outlet under the kitchen sink is connected to the switch that operates the garbage disposal. My garbage disposal is plugged into the top plug-in.

I would like to split the outlet to where:

1) the top plug-in still works the garbage disposal off the switch, and
2) the bottom plug-in has continuous power (i.e. not connected to the switch). A hot water pump is going to be plugged into this plug-in.

I surely could use some wiring assistance/diagram and am semi-comfortable with some simple electrical work.

Thank you.

Can you determine the number of wires connected to the outlet?

Things could be really different and complicated if power was run to the switch first. If there are two wires, it's going to be difficult.

Can you determine the number of wires connected to the outlet?

Things could be really different and complicated if power was run to the switch first. If there are two wires, it's going to be difficult.


I'll check and re-post what I find tomorrow. You make a really good point!

The basic idea is to break the tab between the two brass screws. Now you have separate connections to the HOT(black) side of the switch.

Now you can supply constant power to one outlet and switched power to the other.

Here's the current wiring schematic for the outlet under the kitchen sink.

Romex #1 has a black ("1blk"), white ("1wht"), and ground ("1grd") wire. I'm guessing that this Romex brings in the power.

Romex #2 has a black ("2blk"), white ("2wht"), red ("2red"), and ground ("2grd") wire. I'm guessing this one goes to the garbage disposal switch.

The connections of the individual wires are as follows:

1blk to 2blk
1wht to middle outlet screw (located on left of outlet)
2wht to top outlet screw (located on left of outlet)
1grd to 2grd to outlet ground screw
2red to middle outlet screw (located on right of outlet)

My goal is to have the upper outlet on the switch (operates the garbage disposal) and the lower outlet on continuous power (operates the hot water pump).

Hope this helps.

Best guess:

Assume: Red connects to a brass screw and is the only wire on that side.
... Break tab between brass screw.
--Red wire should connect to upper brass screw.
This makes the upper outlet switched and the lower one dead.

Pigtail another black wire to 1blk and 2blk.
Connect this pigtail to lower brass screw.
This should make the lower outlet live all the time

Hint for future reference:

Chrome colored screws are neutral e.g. white
Brass colored screws are hot e.g. black

If this is a metal box, the ground (bare) should also go to the box. Typically this is done with a pre-purchased green pigtails. These can have ground screws attached to them, fork terminals or a wirenut with a wire coming out of the "wrong end". Plastic boxes don't need to be grounded. Your not supposed to rely on the screw from the outlet to the box for a reliable ground connection to the box. Ground clips can be used too for older houses. These are difficult to work with.

If you are correct about the power source it whould be fairly simple to split up the receptacles by breaking the copper bond between the screws on the hot side. It appears that "1 BLK" is your feed, this would need to be connected to the outlet you want live all the time, in addition to feeding the switch as it currently does. And it appears that "2 red" is the switched wire, which needs to be on the terminal of the receptacle you want to have switched. Make sense?

Keep-It-Simple,

Thanks for the expert advice. I re-wired the outlet according to your instructions and it worked perfectly. Can't explain the small fire, though... (J/K).