I have a 1998 honda accord that don't won't to start all the time.   I have read that other honda owners are having this problem.  I have had a mechanic to look at the car and of course the car starts with him my husband is trying to figure this out.  I think I am going to contact the main Honda headquarters and see if this is a problem that might need a recall.  This is such a pain. I'm afraid to drive my honda. I would like to know have any one found the solution?  Thanks ladyj

I had a simlar problem with my honda accord and it turn out to be the starter relay

It is funny this forum has so many people having trouble starting Hondas. Usually they aren't that bad of a car. You might look for similar problems in other threads here, maybe going back into the archives. If you don't find anything, post back with more details.

Did anyone get a fix for this. My 98 Honda is acting up. I took it to the shop and of course it started fine. I bring it home yesterday and today it won't start. Any help or direction would be appreciated

Give us more details. Do you hear the fuel pump working? Does it start for a second and then dies? Does it start in cold weather, or in the morning, and not in hot weather and after it's been left in the sun?

Well I have a 98 honda 2 door coup with a 3.2 liter V6. It seems to be a little edgy lately. For the past couple of months periodically it would start, but run rough and then die, I would give another hit to the ignition and it would start and run fine.

A few days ago I went out to start the car, and it would just crank over, but wouldn't start. Knowing the past I walked away and tried again a few more times but it still wouldn't start. I called AAA and had it towed to a honda dealership where the next afternoon I get a call telling me that the car started just fine and they couldn't find any issues with it. I asked them to keep the car another day and try again.. but again no issues the car started fine.

I then pick up the car from the dealership and drive it home parking it in the driveway. Two days later go to drive it and it won't start. Give it some time and on the 3rd try about 30 minutes later it started. That was today in the afternoon. Since then I have continued to try to duplicate the issue with no luck.

What I'm noticing:
1.) All check engine lights and dash lights function properly. The check engine doesn't stay on.
2.) The engine cranks over like it normally does, however it doesn't start. (haven't been able to verify if there is a lack of spark) But I have always dealt with electronic components that either work or don't.
3.) I can't hear the fuel pump but then again I never have heard the fuel pump before. Again I thought they either work or don't.
4.) This issue seems to have only happen on hot days ( to my knowledge)

Is anyone experienced this with another Honda?

I cannot tell this for sure, because I have no experience with any Hondas newer than '91. But if it's happening only on hot days, then it reminds me of a 88-91 Civic problems with main relay. It used to cause the Civics not to start on hot days because of it's "dry joints" that would not conduct electricity. Let it cool down and it will start.

Try this next time it won't start. Open up the hood and all doors. Allow the car to cool down as fast as possible when it won't start. Try starting it in 2-3 minutes. If it will start that way - you might have a faulty main relay. Again, I'm not sure if newer hondas even have the main relay, but you might ask the dealership if they could take the relay out (if it exists) and check it's joints.

The trick here is that the relay is inside the cabin, so opening up all doors and hood would just allow the car to cool down a lot faster, and hondas with a faulty main relay don't have troubles starting in cold weather.

I actually found this forum looking for anyone else who having the same problem I am. Yesterday afternoon, which was hot (about 96 degrees faranheit) my honda almost wouldn't start. What I mean by that is when I turned the key, the engine turned over really sluggishly and the lights in the dash were going dim, then out, then back but dimly, in the same rhythym as the engine revving. The car did start, it didn't seem to be having a problem with the radio or air conditioning, and it shifted gears and drove up hills with it's usual pep.

So I think I might be having a similar problem. ; ) My car has really shown no issues before, other than the speakers suck (which I knew the *moment* I drove it off the lot-- no one can seem to fix it).

I got home after a ten mile drive. Parked the car in my driveway, turned it off, waited a few minutes, then decided to try turning it on (hoping that somehow it was now, magically, OK). It, once again, was slow to rev, dim dashboard lights, then it started.

So what is it? A starter (which'll cost around 160$ not including labor <sad grin>), a battery (maybe 90$?), or an alternator (several hundred dollars with labor)? I paid off this car not too long ago with the intention of keeping it for a while. It's kind of ironic that it is starting to have problems (bushings, bearings, and now this starting problem) expensive enough to equal the payments on a new one. Any help for a complete non-mechanic?

-callahan
MCSE, MCSA, MCT, A+, Security+ certified car incompetent ; )

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Well I have a 98 honda 2 door coup with a 3.2 liter V6. It seems to be a little edgy lately. For the past couple of months periodically it would start, but run rough and then die, I would give another hit to the ignition and it would start and run fine.

A few days ago I went out to start the car, and it would just crank over, but wouldn't start. Knowing the past i walked away and tried again a few more times but it still wouldn't start. I called AAA and had it towed to a honda dealership where the next afternoon I get a call telling me that the car started just fine and they couldn't find any issues with it. I asked them to keep the car another day and try again.. but again no issues the car started fine.

I then pick up the car from the dealership and drive it home parking it in the driveway. Two days later go to drive it and it won't start. Give it some time and on the 3rd try about 30 minutes later it started. That was today in the afternoon. Since then I have continued to try to duplicate the issue with no luck.

What I'm noticing:
1.) All check engine lights and dash lights function properly. The check engine doesn't stay on.
2.) The engine cranks over like it normally does, however it doesn't start. (haven't been able to verify if their is a lack of spark) But I have always dealt with electronic components that either work or don't.
3.) I can't hear the fuel pump but then again I never have heard the fuel pump before. Again I thought they either work or don't.
4.) This issue seems to have only happen on hot days ( to my knowledge)

Is anyone experienced this with another Honda?

I have lately problem with my 1998 honda accord when I left it in the sun for couple of hours it does not start ,so by reading this forum I try to leave open my window panes little bit so the cabin temp does not go too much high and actually it works pretty good only in extreme conditions I have the starting problem now , another thing I have noticed the green light on the dashboard does not comes up when car does not satrt , so I went to honda dealership to by parts it is 29.99 plus tax(main realy) . But is there anyone can help me how to replace this main relay as dealership wants to charge 300 dollars to even look at my car . I have been to mechanic they donot have a clue so please help

P.S Is somebody mad enough to catch a top guy in honda and try to address this issue collectivly as they would not listen to one customer at all I am so mad right now I am afraid to take out my family and I think it is not fair for us to go through this mess every day (excuse my language but I am agitated)

Here's a cheap thing you can do to see if it's your battery.

Take your power cables, connect your battery to a known good battery in another car, and try to start your car. If everything runs normal (does not turn over sluggish, lights are normally bright... ), then it's most likely your battery.

As a matter of fact, a friend of my suggested that very thing. He's coming over tomorrow to check it. If it is my battery, we're going to run out, buy one, and replace the bad one. If it isn't, well, I think AAA can tow me to the dealer come Monday. ; )



Here's a cheap thing you can do to see if it's your battery.

Take your power cables, connect your battery to a known good battery in another car, and try to start your car. If everything runs normal (does not turn over sluggish, lights are normally bright...), then it's most likely your battery.

I did already check that battery is good it is some connection in ignition circuit like main relay or satrting coil that get dis-connected with heat and stop the whole ignition process.

To rule out the main relay - take it out and resolder it. See if that helps. It's also a very cheap thing to do.

Don't go out spending a lot of money until you try the cheap things.

This is all pretty interesting. I have a 92 Accord that has trouble starting sometimes. It's happened again the last two days here in New York and it has been very hot out, 100 degrees yesterday. I walked to work this morning (3 in the morning) and went by where I had left the car, and it cranked right up. After leaving work (vey hot out) it would not start. I'll try the same thing in the morning and see what happens. Anyone know where the relay is inside the cabin?

Thanks!

Check the FAQ post in this forum for Civic problems. You'll find a link that will show you where the relay is (in a 88-91 Civic, but yours shouldn't be much different).

By the way, this sounds JUST like the main relay problem (outside heat related to starting).

Thanks for the reply. I walked by the car this morning on the way to work, and it started right up. It was cool out today (about 80) when I left work and it started right up again. Great!

I'll change or solder the relay at first chance. This thread probably saved me a bundle if I would have taken the car to the dealer.

Thanks again,

Bill

A similar thread on this forum helped me do the same thing - resolder the relay. Glad I could help someone else with the same advice! :)

Is it actually called the main relay, because my mechanic said there are many relays down there. Or is the whole thing? Could someone explain this to me?

It is a "Main Relay". Written so on the relay cover. Check the link in the FAQ for Main Relay fixing, and you'll see what it looks like.

I started having a stall problem on my 98 accord,which has 136,000 miles, about a month ago.
I was at a stop light and when the light turned green and I hit the gas the engine stalled. I was able to start it up again right after it stalled.

Over the weekend I started up the car and after about 5 minutes of just sitting in idle waiting for someone the engine stalled. I could not get it to start up again until I came back fifteen minutes later.

Could this be related to the main relay? Any help would be appreciated

Noob

I started having a stall problem on my 98 accord,which has 136,000 miles, about a month ago.
I was at a stop light and when the light turned green and I hit the gas the engine stalled. I was able to start it up again right after it stalled.

Over the weekend I started up the car and after about 5 minutes of just sitting in idle waiting for someone the engine stalled. I could not get it to start up again until I came back fifteen minutes later.

Could this be related to the main relay? Any help would be appreciated

Noob
This does NOT sound like a main relay problem. Do like this:
Turn the key to "I" and prepare yourself to listen for a humming sound in the back (you're listening for fuel pump working). Turn the key to "II" and listen if you see a humming sound from the back of the car. If you do, your fuel pump is working. Humming sound should stop with a click from under the dash. If there is a click - your main relay is working.

It would be best to get your car to a shop, to get it connected to a diagnostics tool which will read out errors ECU has stored. It can give you a better idea of what is going on with the car.

When was your fuel filter last changed?

Thanks. I followed your instructions and heard the sounds you described.

The check engine light does not come on when I start the car normally. I followed the procedure in the Haynes repair manual for my car to read the OBD codes by putting a jumper on the DLC connector then turning the car on and checking for check engine light flashes to read the code. The check engine light comes on with the jumper installed in the DLC connector as described in the manual but I don't see it flash, which according to the manual means there are no stored trouble codes.


I never had the fuel filter replaced. I asked a couple of places to do it but they all said that in my car it is located in the fuel tank and they cannot access it.

-G

7 years old fuel filter doesn't sound good.

Ok, in order for the car to start - it must get both fuel and spark. Here is an easy way to see if you're getting gas. Have someone crank the car while you "sniff your car's ". Don't laugh now. You have to get close to the exhaust and smell for gas. Though, don't stick your nose inside the exhaust. If you smell it - it is getting through the injectors and that means your fuel filter is not clogged. If you don't smell it, pop the hood and smell there while someone cranks.

Or you can pull out the fuel rail with injectors and electrical connectors still attached to the rail, and point it to something that will not ignite the gas (if they squirt gas out), and have someone crank it while you check for injectors squirting gas.

Other than that - I have no idea what to check for, other than checking whether you're getting spark (refer to FAQ for instructions how to do that).

Thanks for your advice!

I noticed that when the car is in idle the tachometer would usually be about 660 rpm but it would fluctuate down to about 500 rpm periodically when in idle.

I checked my records and I had not done a fuel system cleaning in over 30,000 miles. I had Firestone perform a fuel system cleaning. After they did the cleaning the tachometer was solid at about 660 rpm when in idle. It seems like the car is running better and it hasn't stalled so far.

Glad I helped... enjoy your ride!

I have a 98 accord that was doing the same thing. I just got a new engine installed for other reasons but when I got it back it still would'nt start every time. I left it at the shop to see if they could fix it and they told me I needed a new ignition. They installed an ignition from a '00 accord and it starts up every time now. They charged me $100 for the ignition and installation.

Please let me know if this is any help.

After they finished with my car my stereo was locked and I can't find the code. I called the dealership but they said they could'nt help me because I did'nt buy my car there. I have a stock accord CD player but from a different accord, it was given to me by a friend who got a newer stereo installed in his car. Can anybody help with this code?

Help! I have two Honda Accords (1990 and 1995) Both have similar problems in very cold weather. Either I can't turn the key in the ignition at all, or I can't get the key out of the ignition when I need to leave the car.

Sometimes if I wait just a minute or two, suddenly it turns completely freely. This is very distressing in cold weather when you risk being stranded, or when you need to leave the car and can't do so since the key won't come out.

It happened to both cars during the very cold season this past winter.

During the summer I have no trouble at all.

Does anyone else have this problem? Can anyone help? Thanks!

Mom has a 98 Accord. Car dies intermittently, and then won't start.

HOW IT DIES: The RPM's gradually drop (at random) until the idle no longer keeps the engine running. If you notice it dropping, you can give it gas and "ressurrect the idle" - which seems to be fine for awhile after.

AFTER IT DIES:
After the car dies (at random), it will turn over with a healthy crank, but not start unless you let it sit for 5 minutes or so. So far, this has happened in relatively warm weather (75+).

AFTER IT RE-STARTS:
No check engine lights are flagged, and the car runs fine for an indefinite amount of time (sometimes days).

My theory is, it has to be related to Engine Management (sensors, OBD, etc), Fuel Delivery (pump, relay, filter) or Ingition (spark, distributor, etc).

Has anyone experienced this? Dealership says they can't find out what's going on...

Many thanks.

I have experienced the same problem with my 99 Accord. It only happens when it's hot (70+) out and the dealer can't figure it out. The car will start up but then die... I swear I can tell right when it starts up each time it will happen. It happens both after a drive or if it's been sitting for hours. Then I just wait about 15-30 minutes and it starts right up. Have had it in four times now with no help.

I still have bumper to bumper warranty but it's no help if the dealer won't attempt to fix it. It totally sucks. I think I'm done with Honda.

On edit: just happened again but it's a hot one (90F) and it had been 1.5 hours and it still won't start. Turns over great though! Too bad the dealer isn't open today cause it's Sunday.

Did you all try resoldering your main relay? Problems with starting a Honda in hot weather is most likely related to a bad main relay.

I've heard of main relays prohibiting a car from starting, but has anyone ever had one linked to the car dying while driving - and then not restarting?

My car was doing the same thing. I have a 98 Accord that would'nt start every time when it was hot and would sometimes die while I was driving.I got a used ignition installed from a '00 Accord and none of that happens anymore.

Help! I have two Honda Accords (1990 and 1995) Both have similar problems in very cold weather. Either I can't turn the key in the ignition at all, or I can't get the key out of the ignition when I need to leave the car.

Sometimes if I wait just a minute or two, suddenly it turns completely freely. This is very distressing in cold weather when you risk being stranded, or when you need to leave the car and can't do so since the key won't come out.

It happened to both cars during the very cold season this past winter.

During the summer I have no trouble at all.

Does anyone else have this problem? Can anyone help? thanks!


My 89 Accord does this. I think I have fixed the problem but will not know for sure until this winter.

Following would occur after parking when the temps get below freezing for last 4 winters:
1-key stuck in ignition, will not turn
2-car stuck in park
3-gear selector indicator lights on dash OFF even when engine running

It looks like 3 was the key. Car does not know it is in park so it will not let me take the key out. After a few minutes with the heat blasting, the "P" light on the dash comes on again and then all is well.

Took apart the center console, found a little spring loaded ball that hits a detent for each gear. The assembly is swimming in dusty grease so thick that the spring can barely push the ball into the detents to make contact. I verified that the ball not sliding into position prevents the indicator lights from coming on.

So I cleaned it all up, regreased it, stretched the spring a little so it will have more tension and in a few months I will see if that worked.

Cheers

Said the starting problem has been coming up a lot lately and they resoldered the main fuel relay. Hasn't died since but it's only been a few days. Not really too hot anymore either.

My 99 Accord began to have the 'hard-to-start problem' this July (2005), and since then it would happen occasionally (once every two weeks). And I noticed that it would only happen on hot days as well. I took the car to a Honda dealership, but they couldn't do anything to it, saying that 'they couldn't reproduce the problem'. But three days after coming out of their shop, I had problems starting the car again. Two days in a row!

Just like others said, the car sounded normal when you first tried to start it, but then it just cranked, and wouldn't start. I had to turn off the key and turn it back on, and repeat the step several times, and crank the car several times, and every time when I was panicked, the car would start.
In the latest occurrence, I noticed my car actually first got started, and then in a second, it went dead, and then it was the 'fully routine' of turning the key on and off, on and off, hoping the car would start.

I am getting frustrated, and at first my husband wouldn't believe what I said about the car. He thought I didn't start the car right. After I found this link, he started to believe me, and we thought it might be caused by a dirty fuel filter, since we have never had it cleaned or replaced.

I am very disappointed by Honda's service. If so many Honda cars (especially Accords) are having similar problems, the dealer's service department should have known better than just saying that 'we couldn't reproduce the problem'.

I wonder whether all of us here should write a petition together to send to Honda's headquarter, so that they could take the problem seriously, so that they could train their technicians better and fix the cars for us. The biggest fear I have now is that my car might stop dead right in the middle of the road!

Just didn't expect a car from Honda with problems like this. Very disappointed!

Read the FAQ on information how to resolder your main relay. It is a known problem with Hondas.

To make sure it's a bad main relay, do like this:

Turn the key to II, listen for a humming sound from behind you. It is a fuel pump working. You should hear a click from under the dash after it. It is a main relay click. If you do not hear a click, your car will not start. If you do hear a click, your car will start.

Fix is to take the relay out, resolder the joints and put it back in.

Thanks! We will look at the time relay this weekend. I will update the result, if the problem is fixed.

No problems... just one thing: it's a MAIN relay, not a TIME relay.

It's so nice to know that I am not alone with my 89 honda accord turning over just fine but not starting my question is where is the fuel pump relay and whad do you mean by "soldering the joints"

Read the FAQ. Everything is in there. 90% of information (if not more) about Civic's problems are the same for Accord problems (of same years).

I have the same problem. My '90 Accord won't start when it is hot. This is happening for the last 2 weeks. Yesterday, I changed the air filter, spark plugs and the wires, the distributor cap and the rotor inside it. After changing all this, I cranked up my car and it started just fine. I kept it running and after 3-4 minutes it just died. It was yesterday evening and not "hot" at all. I've been trying to start it ever since but it just cranks but won't start. Now, I'm not sure if I have a bad main relay or something else is a problem. I tried listening to the main relay "click" after setting the key in the ON position and I can hear it clicking. Some people mention that if you can hear your main relay "click" then the main relay is fine. I'm totally confused and not sure what needs to be done. At this point my car doesn't start at all, no matter how cold or hot it is outside. Please help.

It seems your main relay is fine. Try the FAQ for procedures on how to check for spark and gas. Come back with results. Also, read out error codes on your ECU.

I have a '98 Honda Accord and it was fine all throughout summer but ever since it has been getting colder in NYC its having trouble starting.
I had no problems starting the car last winter.
I had friends jump the car and that didn't work at the time so I had it towed to a shop and when it got there they said it started fine.
So I brought it back and a few days later it didn't start again, waited about an hour then it just started up fine.
This happened again this week but this time I had to wait about 3 hours before I could get it to start and this time it had trouble starting.
I brought it into the shop and they were like there's nothing wrong with it.
I think its whenever I don't use the car for more than 24 hours then it won't start.
Haven't actually had much time to test this theory since I need the car to get to work.

Also, now power windows and power locks are not working after the last time it failed to start.

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP!!

If anyone can help me with this

Next time your car won't start, try checking for spark. Read the FAQ for checking the spark. If it's missing a spark, we'll know it's spark related. If it's getting spark, then try checking if it's getting gas. That will (at least generally) isolate the problem between not getting spark and not getting gas.

I wake up this morning and the temperature is about mid 60's and I start up the car but it just struggles and never catches. I hear the rotation of the belt but nothing starts. I am not too familiar with cars so where can I find the spark plugs?

After the trouble with the car, my rightside power window does not work and all my power locks are not functioning. Did I blow my fusebox by keep on trying to start the car?

I have the same problems
I have a 1998 honda accord that don't won't to start all the time. * I have read that other honda owners are having this problem. *I have had a mechanic to look at the car and of course the car starts with him my husband is trying to figure this out. *I think I am going to contact the main Honda headquarters and see if this is a problem that might need a recall. *This is such a pain. Im' afraid to drive my honda. I would like to know have any one found the solution? *Thanks ladyj

I have faced same situation four five times. I just park to go bank, I came back did not start. When I am using self to start ,the battery were down.
I had to give jump start. I changed the new battery and I am not having any problem since one month.

I have been having frequent start-up problems with my 2000 v6 3.0 accord. When I turn it on, it starts up for a split second then the engine stalls. In order for me to keep it running, I rev the engine and quickly switch it into gear and press on the gas before the RPMs have a chance to drop and the engine has a chance to shut off. So far I have had no stalling problems while driving; all of the stalling problems are at start-up. Also, when I got my car to start today, after repeated attempts, I noticed the check engine light was on. I'm not exactly a "know-it-all" when it comes to cars, so I would greatly appreciate any advice on how to handle this problem.

A little bit of research on the internet made my life easier! I also had the same problem with my 98 accord. Sometimes I would be driving and the car would just die. Sometimes I could start it back up and sometimes it would take about 5 or more cranks for engine to start up. Car would start up and right away die. I found that honda has a recall on lots of their vehicles for the same problem, which is caused by the ignition system. I called honda and they took my car and replaced the ignition fro free at the dealer. It turns out that there was a safety recall for this problem for my vehicle. Safety recalls never expire no matter who the owner is or how many miles on the vehicle. Good luck honda owners.

Everyone else seems to be having trouble starting their car when it's hot outside, pointing the problem being the main relay. I just begun having problems with my 98 Accord V6 today, but it's about 45-50 degrees F outside. The car cranked fine as usual, but wouldn't start. I didn't notice any specific problems and never had any issues previously. Tried cranking a handful of times with no luck so I checked the ignition wires. Looked fine. Checked for the fuel pump humming, which was present. Tried cranking several times again with no luck.

Oddly enough, once I took the key out of the ignition and tapped it several times on my palm, the car started right up. I tried to duplicate the same problem, by turning the car off and re-starting. The car didn't start. So I took the key out of the ignition, tapped it several times on my palm, it it started right up.

Could it possibly be the key that's giving so many people problems? Is that a stupid assumption? Please help. Thanks in advance.

I just ran some tests, experimented, and took some notes. Turns out that my problem is indeed a bad key. :eek:

Long story short, I stick the key in the ignition, turn to the on position, and the vehicle immobilizer system indicator (the green key indicator light on the dash) keeps blinking. So basically, the car doesn't recognize the key, the immobilizer system kicks in, and doesn't allow the engine to start.

I guess it's time to either go the stealership to get my key reprogrammed or, gasp... spend over a hundred bucks to get a new key.

Hope this helps people with '98+ Accords/Hondas with the immobilizer system experiencing engine start-up problems.

:mad: I have this 98 Honda Accord that won't start. I am so lost. The engine light was on and one forum told us that the gas cap might not be on tight. They said it will take a couple of trips to turn off but to twist it on tight and it will go off. It went off. Well once again the gas light turned on Saturday night and now this morning my car won't start. The car will turn over but that is it. Any ideas?

My check engine light came on yesterday morning. I know that I need a timing belt which will be replaced tomorrow. But I can't fingure out why the check engine light came on I am going to have it hooked up at auto zone but if anyone here could help I would appreciate it. The car doesn't want to go sometimes. I will be sitting still or driving and try to excellerate and it will rev but not go. I think this is a timing belt issue but not sure if related. Thanks for help. :confused:

I have a 98 accord coupe V6. I have been having the same problems with my car not starting. A mechanic put in a new alternator a month ago and my car still has trouble starting. It seems mine does it when it is really hot or I just put gas in my car. I no longer turn my car off to put gas in, I always leave it running. I am getting frustrated because I can't get anyone to fix the actual problem. Any suggestions?

before I start... yesrocks - please kill yourself. We are trying to find help, so your forum spam is pretty annoying.

my 4 cylinder 1998 accord coupe has not been starting on hot days for the last three years. Up until last summer, I had always just kept trying and trying until it started. Last summer, it started to take longer, and longer (up to 3-4 hours) to finally start. Thank god I work from home, because I am sure I would have been fired 10x over if I had a job somewhere. I've brought my accord to mechanics who (of course) it started just fine for. I first suspected the starter and battery, both of which have been replaced in the last 30 days, so we know that's not the problem.

Someone said that this problem was covered under recall. That will be my first option, because its free. I will reply after I talk to them and post my results. Let's figure this out together.

Did you manage to find out if it's gas or spark you're not getting when your car doesn't want to start?

By the way, I'd bet you have a bad Main Relay (if that year accord still uses a Main Relay). Try to locate it, take it out, resolder it's joints and put it back in. See the FAQ for more details on it.

If your 1998 honda accord has over 140000 miles, I tell you for sure the fuel pump is almost Dead that's why your car STALLS sometime!! fuel pump is located in trunk,you can replace it in 1 hour. Florin

1998 1999 Honda Accord stalls while driving -the problem is the fuel pump!! Is located in the trunk in 1 hour if you are ambitios your problem is fix and your engine will run without any problems. Florin

I have a 2005 Honda Ex Civic, and I am experiencing some difficulties when starting the engine. It just started a few days ago, and realized something is going wrong. Sometimes when I try to start, a GEE sound will come up, then sometimes it just won't start like I turned all the way to start the engine and nothing happens, no sound, no GEE sound no nothing. It's really unpredictable. When the weather is REALLY cold or REALLY hot, it would happen more often. I don't know what to do and I'm afraid of driving now because it happens more and more. Is anyone experiencing the same difficulties as I am? Can anyone give me advice? Should I go to an auto garage to explain? But it doesn't happen all the time, It only happens when I drive the vehicle, when someone else drives it, it doesn't happen. Is something wrong with the starter? Or the whole ignition process? Any advice, please!

-2005 Civic

Honda Accord 1998 model and your car is still STALLING while you driving,or is Starting Very Hard,your problem is Ignition Switch ,it is positioned behind your steering wheel and you have acces to it if you remove the plastic cap covers,. ignition switch looks like a white plastic capsule with 5 wires on it,and it has a black plastic on it as a protection against accidental shorts ,remove the "belly" panel under your steerring wheel so you have better access when you remove the ignition switch (3 philips screws),disconect the battery when you work. Florin

To Civic 2005, if you have a "gee" noise,that should be the alternator belt or the A/C belt ,check them both if they are not lose or too old,if your car is still sarting hard check the ignition switch,they die pretty fast and when its hot they just don't work because the contacts are poor inside of the ignition switch. Florin

My 98 accord will not start either.It cranks,but won't start. It's getting fuel and it's getting spark. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the ignition switch since it was under recall, and they also replaced the main relay... but 3 days later... it wouldn't start again. So, I took back to the dealership and they kept it for 3 days,and it started every time for them. They said they hooked it up to diagnostics, but couldn't "duplicate the problem". For some reason it seems to not start in the mornings. This is so frustrating, I bought a honda because I thought they were reliable,but apparently they aren't since thousands of people have been reading this thread. My car only has 130,000 miles on it... which I thought wasn't much for a honda. I just paid the stupid thing off, and really didn't want another car payment,but I'm scared to drive it anywhere in fear that it might not start. Please Help!!

"Read the FAQ on information how to resolder your main relay."

I have been all over this site trying to find the FAQ section, and I even used the search faqs and could not find it.

Can anyone PLEASE give me the link to this FAQ?

Many thanks,

LGO

I have a 98 accord that sounds like it has a similar problem. My non-starting situation is completely random though. When it usually doesn't start, if I wait 10 to 15 minutes, it will start. The mechanic shop doesn't know what to do with it because every time they try to diagnosis the problem, it works!
I just recently replaced the distributor. Two days later it started doing the same thing again. It's not getting spark. I read the post about the recall on the ignition. I'm going to check into that further. If anyone has any other ideas please post! Thanks!

I had the same problem with a 1998 Honda Accord with v6. Also a similar problem with a 2000 Dodge 1500. In both instances, the ground cable from the battery was badly corroded. I changed the cable and it seemed to fix the problem. The battery showed good, all lights worked but could not get the starter to turn over. Changed the cables and voilà.

After the dealership kept my car for 2 weeks,it finally would not start for them on the 14th day. It was bad coils and a bad igniter unit, which they said was caused from having the original spark plugs. It has now started up fine for a week,so I think it is finally fixed. Yay!

See if you are getting 5 volts to your MAP sensor. If it's way short, replace your failing Engine Control Module.

I had the same problem when its hot not starting it's the relay assist its under the drivers dash and cost's 35$ at honda dealer.


1998 accord ex v6

CroCivic91 is correct. It's the "MAIN RELAY". My 1998 Honda Accord sometimes kept cranking but did not start. I had to leave it for 30 minutes or sometimes few hours and started it again and it's okay. The problem was random. At first I thought it was the fuel pump. When it starts, I find out the problem is not from the fuel pump. It's from the main relay since it also control the fuel pump. One can short the relay but it's dangerous since fuel pump would work all the times.
I could not solder as CroCivic91 mentioned; I bought a new one from Honda dealer for $80 and have a mechanic replaced it for $20. It solved my problem. Thanks CroCivic91.

Hrm same problem. 1996 Honda Accord died. I thought it was my security system, but we disconnected it and it appears not to work. I attempt to start up the car and the engine sputters, but the car does not start. The battery appears to be fine... so I have no idea what is the problem.

Hi everyone, I want to thank the folks who told me about the main relay
Under the dash. My 1998 honda accord would not start once in a while
And mostly on hot days, after relpacing the main relay switch under the
Dash it's been almost a month and starts every time. It was 70 bucks
Installed by a local mechinic however it took him about 2 minutes to replace
And looked simple. Anyway, I hope other folks replace try this fix cause
It really works. Great forum..

Thanks again.. jt.

Same thing is happening to me on warm days when my 99 Honda accord sits for hours. Lately it turns over and catches but then suddenly dies if I don't give it gas fast enough. I guess I will try the "Main Relay" that everyone is talking about but I think it might be the immobilizer for the key since I have noticed a pattern with that green key light that flashes when you turn your car to II. Definitely not happy with this make and model.

Give us more details. Do you hear the fuel pump working? Does it start for a second and then dies? Does it start in cold weather, or in the morning, and not in hot weather and after it's been left in the sun?
I have a 1998 Accord with the same problem of not starting when it is in the sun or if the engine is hot. I am going to try replacing the main relay switch and hope it works as it has for most of you. Thanks for the help. No one knew how to fix it and the same problem occurred, but not when the mechanics were watching.

My wife has a 1999 Accord. About 5 years ago we locked her keys in the trunk and had to get an additional key made at the dealer. I have been keeping, but rarely using, this key since. Last night, she went to move her car in the garage using my keys (they were handier at the time). The car would only crank, but not turn over. I immediately thought fuel pump.
My fixes involve "try the cheapest first" approach, so we made sure that the gas gauge wasn't off by adding a couple of gallons of fuel. Didn't help. Next, checked the fump pump fuse. Didn't help. So off to the internet I went in search of suggestions before calling a tow truck. This is where I found out about faulty keys. Who thought a key could not to it's job?! Apparently, some of the helpful people on this site considered it.
Long story short... Got the wife's key and it turned right over.

I have a 1998 honda accord that don't won't to start all the time. &#160; I have read that other honda owners are having this problem. &#160;I have had a mechanic to look at the car and of course the car starts with him my husband is trying to figure this out. &#160;I think I am going to contact the main Honda headquarters and see if this is a problem that might need a recall. &#160;This is such a pain. Im' afraid to drive my honda. I would like to know have any one found the solution? &#160;Thanks ladyj
My 1998 Honda Accord is doing the same thing and it has 77,000 miles on it.
I can go to the store and come back out with my groceries and get in and it will not turn over, but it is getting gas. I just replaced the fuel pump a month ago and now I'm scared to drive long distances in case it breaks down for good. I purchased this car because it is supposed to be a decent car but I had nothing but problems with it. I even had my transmision rebuilt and it still is not right. We should all contact the honda dealer and put in a complaint. I know I will if my car doesn't work after I take it to the dealer come Monday. I had trouble with my abs light staying on too. I can't afford this car and it still looks brand new and I hate to sell it to someone for them to have my problems.

My 99 Accord began to have the 'hard-to-start problem' this July (2005), and since then it would happen occasionally (once every two weeks). And I noticed that it would only happen on hot days as well. I took the car to a Honda dealership, but they couldn't do anything to it, saying that 'they couldn't reproduce the problem'. But three days after coming out of their shop, I had problems starting the car again. Two days in a row!

Just like others said, the car sounded normal when you first tried to start it, but then it just cranked, and wouldn't start. I had to turn off the key and turn it back on, and repeat the step several times, and crank the car several times, and every time when I was panicked, the car would start.
In the latest occurrence, I noticed my car actually first got started, and then in a second, it went dead, and then it was the 'fully routine' of turning the key on and off, on and off, hoping the car would start.

I am getting frustrated, and at first my husband wouldn't believe what I said about the car. He thought I didn't start the car right. After I found this link, he started to believe me, and we thought it might be caused by a dirty fuel filter, since we have never had it cleaned or replaced.

I am very disappointed by Honda's service. If so many Honda cars (especially Accords) are having similar problems, the dealer's service department should have known better than just saying that 'we couldn't reproduce the problem'.

I wonder whether all of us here should write a petition together to send to Honda's headquarter, so that they could take the problem seriously, so that they could train their technicians better and fix the cars for us. The biggest fear I have now is that my car might stop dead right in the middle of the road!

Just didn't expect a car from Honda with problems like this. Very disappointed!
I will back you up with that petition!!

I will back you up with that petition maybe they will fix our cars for free. Lol that would be the day

I have a 92 accord with same problem, I usually had the problem when it was warm outside, but early morning and late at night when it was cool, it would start, (really weird) but come to find out after spending a lot of money it was the fuel pump relay switch.

Same inconsistent problem here, too. Wouldn't start sometimes - did fine others.
Sometimes it would stall - but most of the time it didn't. Very frustrating.

I have to give credit to our local Honda Dealer. They would fix one thing - we'd drive it for a couple of weeks and the problem would show up again. We'd take it back to the dealer, and they'd work on it again NO CHARGE.
We ended up needing to leave it with them for about a week, so that they could try to "create the problem". They ended up replacing the computer. Apparently it was sending out incorrect information and causing our problems.

At long last our Accord is humming again!

This problem is most likely caused by the safety interlock mechinism. I had the same problem where my car would start and then stall and flash a green key on the dash panel. This is a recall and honda has issued a service bulliten for it. What happens is your key is computerized and when you put the key in the ignition the ignition reads the key to make sure it is valid for the car otherwise the car won't start. (anti theft device). If the key is not valid it will shut the car off after about 15 seconds of running. And if you put the key in the ignition if it is unable to read the key it will just turn over and over and over without starting. call your honda dealer and ask them if your car is included in the recall. Most 98 accords are.

I recently couldn't start my 2000 Accord 4 cyl and it was my spare key that was the problem! I swore that I used it once before but now I think it was just to open the door to get to the real key inside. Being a mech. Engineer I started going about it the complicated way but never opened the owner's manual! Doh! Couldn't even get advice at honda-tech.com. Thank you for the help guys. Saved me a lot more head aches.

I just started having a problem like this yesterday. I have a 1993 honda accord. Yesterday I went out and started it up, and like usual it started up just fine. Then I drove about 70 miles, and stopped to get gas. I turned the car off, went inside to pay, pumped the gas, got in, and when I tried to start it, nothing. It wouldn't even make a noise. You put the key in, and go to crank it over, and at the point where the car usually starts up, now it just makes a very small, light clicking noise and all the dashboard lights and radio shut off. As soon as you release the key, the lights slowly fade back on and the radio comes back on. So today we replaced the battery, and it started up fine. Then I came out 5 hours later to see if it would start, and that same problem happened again. I don't understand what the problem is, can anyone help me out here?

I have a 1998 honda accord that don't won't to start all the time.   I have read that other honda owners are having this problem.  I have had a mechanic to look at the car and of course the car starts with him my husband is trying to figure this out.  I think I am going to contact the main Honda headquarters and see if this is a problem that might need a recall.  This is such a pain. Im' afraid to drive my honda. I would like to know have any one found the solution?  Thanks ladyj
We have had the same problem with our 1999 Honda sedan 4 cyl. No one could diagnose it because they couldn't reproduce the problem, as the car always started for them. The not starting problem always seemed to happen when the car sat out in the hot sun, not in the garage. We took it to a Honda dealer today, and fortunately the car would not start once there. They said the immobilizer light was blinking and after talking to Honda tech support, they felt it was related to the car alarm wire connected to the immobilizer. The next time it did not start they clipped the alarm wire to the immobilizer and the car started right up. They feel confident this is the cause of our problems. I hope this information is of some help to you.

Had the same problem with our 1999 Honda intermittently not starting. This seemed to usually happen when it sat out in the hot sun, not in the cool garage. Today our Honda dealer noted that whenthe car would not start the immobilizer light was blinking. He disconnected our alarm system wire from the immobilizer and the car started right up. He feels confident this cured our problem. We are hopeful it did also.

I enjoy driving my Accord, but preferr the reliability of my Lexus IS300
I've recently found this informative site that may help Honda owners

http://techauto.tripod.com

(Details Info on Main Relay and Other Intermittent Starting Problems and Solutions)

I am currently having the same problem with my 00 accord. I don't think it's the key problem, because I have 3 keys, which I have tried them all and the car still doesn't work. I don't hear the fuel pump working in the back so maybe that's the problem? I'm about to take my car to the dealership tomorrow to see what's wrong. I hope its not going to be so expensive! Plus its not the thing when its hot outside, because its fairly cool today, and my car has been sitting in this cool weather for a while and it still doesn't want to start. Why oh why are we having this problem??

I also forgot to mention that when I try to start all I get is a click, which sounds like its coming from the "distributor."

Check the battery, try jump start using jumper cables with another car.
It could be (a) your battery, (b) the battery cables, (c) the starter itself, (d) less likely to be the ignition switch.

If your battery is weak or 4+ year old, try replacing it first.

thank you, but I've already tried jumping it, which yielded unsuccessful. I just called aaa and they are about to help me tow it to the dealership. =(

Okay, so I took it to the dealership, and it turned out to be the starter. My starter went dead. Hope this helps anyone

Everyone that is having this issue try this. Turn the key slowly to each turn over points. I think there is three of them. On the last one when the car turns over. At the same time your are turning the key press a little on the gas. If you do this right it will start right up and you know you have an issue with the fuel pump.:)

Honda Accord 98 v6 144,000 miles

Check the main relay by doing this... before soldering if you want...
Test the main relay by removing it first... it's under the dash/left side by fuse panel.
You'll need a volt meter for this... Under 20 bucks at most stores or borrow a buddies.
Using a pair of jumper wires, connect the battery positive terminal to the #4 relay terminal, ground the #8 terminal, then check for continuity between the #5 and #7 terminals. If there's no continuity, replace or solder the relay at these terminal locations.
Continued...
Connect the battery positive erminal to the #5 relay terminal, ground the #2 terminal and then verify there's continuity between the #1 and #3 terminals. If there isn't, replace or solder the relay at these terminal locations.
Continued on more time...
Connect the battery positive terminal to the #3 relay terminal and ground the #8 terminal. Verify there's continuity between the #5 and #7 terminals. If there's no continuity, replace or solder the relay at these terminal locations.

Note: if you can't find the battery positive terminal after you unplug the main relay... find a good ground on any part of the car and touch the terminals with the positive side of the meter individually. This will let you know where the positive one is. Here is the pin location looking at the relay with the "tang" in the up position.

8 "tang" 4 2
7 5 3 1

Sounds like a lot but it should only take five minutes or so to check. In the end could save you a lot of money for a fuel pump that works... only when the main relay is working.

Hope this helps

Hi there ! Having the same odd problem. My 1999 Honda Accord Coupe 4cyl engine (CG4) randomly doesn't want to start. Nothing to do with hot or cold weather. Keys are OK. Fuel filter has been changed. Of course, the problem only occurs with me. The engine starts... few moments later, it stalls. I remove the key and put it back again and waiting 5 minutes, the car will start again most of the times. The problem seems to occur when the fuel tank is half empty. I suspected bad fuel in the beginning but since the filter change I'm doubtful. I noticed this problem once or twice happening the last two years but now it's all the time. Very frustrating. Interestingly, once the car is rolling down the road, everything is fine. Even when I need to stop at traffic lights, no issue. The car doesn't like no more to run idle with the cold engine. Even when the engine starts, it can happen that after 2 or 3 minutes it stalls and I have problems to get it running again. Could this be related to an old timing belt ? My Honda dealer is clueless. Unfortunately, this kind of car is a seldom one here in Europe and the dealership doesn't have lots of experience with it.

jpkasel, I would try replacing the Ignition Control Module (igniter) and coil inside the distributor. These are very problematic components on Hondas--especially the igniter.

Hi ! I think that replacing the Ignition Control Module makes sense. For the coil, I don't think so because it looks quit good inside. I even had the contacts cleaned. The problem with this issue is that the fuel filter was indeed pretty dirty (got replaced), I had a little animal bite a cable under the hood (got fixed) and finally my springs got hit violently when I drove too fast up a slope (maybe that made damage to the ignition control module). Well, all these things at the same time makes it difficult to trace the source of the problem. BUT many thanks for the suggestion, I'll have my mechanic check into it. Jean-Paul

Jean-Paul, here's how to replace the Ignition Control Module yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

Electron migration, accelerated by heat, normally causes these components to fail. I recommend replacement every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Just to make a follow-up... The problem appears to be solved by having changed the main relay behind the dashboard and also doing a Honda recommended replacement concerning a "multiplexer control unit". Don't know whether that is the ignition control module but fact is that the car now feels like having 20 horsepower more. Acceleration is pretty good now and the engine no more stalls.

I have a 1998 honda accord that don't won't to start all the time.   I have read that other honda owners are having this problem.  I have had a mechanic to look at the car and of course the car starts with him my husband is trying to figure this out.  I think I am going to contact the main Honda headquarters and see if this is a problem that might need a recall.  This is such a pain. Im' afraid to drive my honda. I would like to know have any one found the solution?  Thanks ladyj
Go to internetauto.com and it can tell you all recalls for your car

/uploads/HondaGuygold/2007-08-21_203814_ignition_switch_recall.JPG (http://honda.justanswer.com/view_image.aspx?href=%2fuploads%2fHondaGuygold%2f2 007-08-21_203814_ignition_switch_recall.JPG)

I have the same problems

As do I. I did check my fuses and they are or seem to be fine. The igintion recall at the bottom of the page is a help but I really would like to sort out this windows/lock problem as well.

Any help would be great!

Hi Folks...
I fought with this problem myself... took me a year to figure out... but I had the exact problem that you did; here is how you fix it.
The Main Relay on the Honda Accord is called a "Fuel Injector Relay." If you go to your local part store it should run about 58 bucks. Purchase the part first... it will help you to know what you are looking for. (A gray little box with a plug at the end.)
This is how you fix it.
1. Get in the drivers seat.
2. Keep door open and look on the left side of the dashboard. You will notice a removable panel labeled fuses. NOTE: You can only see it with the door open.
3. Remove the panel by pulling out.
4. Two (2) screws hold a bottom panel under the steering wheel. Remove the screws (Black and Brass) and remove the panel by pulling outward and down.
5. Look through the cluster of wires and you will see the FIR (Fuel Injector Relay)
6. Use a 10 mm rachet to remove the bracket holding a plastic pin and the FIR.
7. Use a small flat head screw driver to remove the FIR
8. Unplug the old... plug in the new.
9. Reverse these steps to reassemble your panel under your dash.

A honda dealership tried to get 3000 bucks out of me to find and fix this problem. After much research I found the answer for under 60 bucks.

Good luck... this should fix your issues!
Be well.
Let me know if this works for you! The best advice is cheap if not free!
MySpace.com - Tim ONeil - Detroit, Michigan - Ambient / Classical / Acoustic - www.myspace.com/composertimoneil (http://www.myspace.com/composertimoneil)

Sincerely,
Tim O'Neil

Hi Folks...
I fought with this problem myself... took me a year to figure out... but I had the exact problem that you did; here is how you fix it.
The Main Relay on the Honda Accord is called a "Fuel Injector Relay." If you go to your local part store it should run about 58 bucks. Purchase the part first... it will help you to know what you are looking for. (A gray little box with a plug at the end.)
This is how you fix it.
1. Get in the drivers seat.
2. Keep door open and look on the left side of the dashboard. You will notice a removable panel labeled fuses. NOTE: You can only see it with the door open.
3. Remove the panel by pulling out.
4. Two (2) screws hold a bottom panel under the steering wheel. Remove the screws (Black and Brass) and remove the panel by pulling outward and down.
5. Look through the cluster of wires and you will see the FIR (Fuel Injector Relay)
6. Use a 10 mm rachet to remove the bracket holding a plastic pin and the FIR.
7. Use a small flat head screw driver to remove the FIR
8. Unplug the old... plug in the new.
9. Reverse these steps to reassemble your panel under your dash.

A honda dealership tryed to get 3000 bucks out of me to find and fix this problem. After much research I found the answer for under 60 bucks.

Good luck... this should fix your issues!
Be well.
Let me know if this works for you! The best advice is cheap if not free!
MySpace.com - Tim ONeil - Detroit, Michigan - Ambient / Classical / Acoustic - www.myspace.com/composertimoneil (http://www.myspace.com/composertimoneil)

Sincerely,
Tim O'Neil

Thank you Sir!

That sounds like a pain in the *ss but I will give it a try.

Dave

My wife’s ’98 Accord (4 cyl) will no longer start but it has nothing to do with the temperature or weather. I’ve read through everything (including the FAQ) but I can’t seem to find a similar situation.

I took the car out on Saturday and it started very hard and ran extremely rough / choppy for a few seconds. I gave it some gas and everything smoothed out. I drove it for a bit and made a few stops and it started up normally each time. Monday morning, the car wouldn’t start. It’s now Wednesday and, after multiple attempts, it still won’t start. When I turn the key, it cranks so it’s not the starter or battery but it never seems to make an attempt to actually start running.

The fuel pump starts up and the relay clicks, all the fuses are good, and no error codes are being reported. I also replaced the spark plugs and checked them for spark. I don’t see any leaks or cracks anywhere in the distributor or anything else related. Any suggestions?

. Plywood20, running through the tests in Sections A and B below should help you pinpoint the problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563.html

. Be sure to use a test light or multimeter to check all under-dash and under-hood fuses. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post252145

. Run the K-Test on the ECM.
. Check for spark.

If you still cannot locate the problem, focus on the distributor. They go frequently--the problem could be unserviceable internal sensors (CKP, CYL, and TDC) or a bad ICM or coil. ICMs and coils can be checked for free at AutoZone. If the internal distributor sensors are bad, you should install a new Honda distributor housing and reuse ICM and coil, if they test okay.

For some odd reason, the car is starting every time now. However, the first time it started up, it was extremely rough / on the verge of stalling and the garage was instantly filled with exhaust fumes. I haven't made it into the distributor but the MAP sensor was throwing around 3 volts - not normal but not excessively low. Should 3 volts at the MAP be a concern?

3 volts at the MAP Sensor is a very real concern. My bet is that your ECM is failing. It's intermittent, now, but soon is will likely completely die. I suggest you install a remanufactured ECM, with a lifetime warranty.

If you perform the K-Test at various times, you'll likely get varying results. Sometimes, it will be very low and the car won't start or run well; other times, it will be more normal. Eventually, it will be very low (.3 volts), stay there, and the car won't start. My advice is to replace it now on your terms.

NHTSA Campaign ID # 02V120000
Potentail units affected 1000000 honda accords
1998 accords electrical system: ignition switch. Recall date: 05/16/2002

Summary: on certain sedans,coupes, electrical contacts in the ignition swictch can degrade
Due to the high electrical current passing through the switch when the vehicle is started.

Consequence: worn contacts could cause the engine to stall without warning, increasing the risk of a crash.

Remedy: dealers will replace the ignition switch. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact honda at 800-999-1009

My wife drives a 96 Honda accord EX (6cyls) and we had this starting problem since early on , 2000 (?). I've tried replacing distributor cap and rotor, genuine Honda spark plug wires, spark plugs, had the fuel injector clean by mechanics. Problem still persisted, come and go.

When the problem comes, it is always after the car siting in the garage for a while or overnite. To start the car, I press the gas pedal half way and hold the key. I was able to start the car most of the time and lots of smoke came out. Once it's started, the car will be OK for a while. It would not stall for anytime during the day. No dealer or mechanic can figure out why. Oh, yeah, I had the car in them numerous times to no avail.

I've been using fuel injector cleaner (good and expensive ones) every other week. I've not had starting problem for a while, may be once every few months. And I was able to start it with the procedure I gave above every time. The car now has over 130,000 miles and still running well except this occasional starting problem.

Tim O'Neil,

I will definitely try your suggestion. I'll let you know how it turn out.

Me too! A buck 99 versus 150.00 is worth a shot.

I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX it also was running rough at low RPM's and just quit one day driving down the street. Checked it out and it had no spark would turn over easy but no spark. The problem was the Ignition Control Module. It cost $70.00 at Advance Auto Parts. It is an easy fix. Disconnect the battery cables. Remove air filter and air filter box so you have room to unscrew the three screws from the distributor to remove the distributor cap. One the distributor cap is removed take a flat screw driver and pry off the rotor from the shaft and remove the cover so you can get access to the inside of the distributor. You will see the Ignition Control Module there are two screws that hold it inside of the distributor the are located on the outside below the ICG Module unscrew the two screws and be careful not to strip them use a good phillips screw dirver and a lot of pressure on the screw as to not strip them. Once those two screws are unscrewed remove the four wires and be careful not to break the wires other wise you will have to sodder new wires. Once the wires are removed it will slide right out. Take and unscrew the two screws on the back of the ICG and remove the bracket you will need the bracket to install on the new ICG. Use the gel between the two medals so that it will not corrode later. Reinstall all parts in the reverse order that you removed them. This is a known problem and it will no doubt fix your starting problem. Easy fix only nine screws total.

I have a 98 Accord with 301,000. Mind you I too have been having this stalling problem. I can cruise around and all of sudden the engine dies and starts itself back up. I know within 10 or 15 miles I will completely stall. I have to crank and crank while driving and usually within 5 or 6 attempts it will startup. I have stalled at 75 mph and at 10mph, going straight down the highway or turning on a local street.
What I have noticed when I stall, is that if I hold the key forward and don't release the key the car stays started. I do hear a slight grind sound of the starter, but it is enough to get me out of harms way. 100% of the time holding the key keeps the car started, once I let go it stalls, and I do my 5 or 6 attempts. Also, if I run the car an 30 or 40 minutes and turn the car off and try to quickly start it back up it won't start up. I have to do my 5 or 6 attempts or wait 5 or 10 minutes. When I get gas, I always worry if it will start back up and that seems long enough for it to always start up.
Is this the fuel pump or the main relay or the ignition switch?

With the mileage on your car, I would replace the ignition switch and main relay.

Likewise, I have a 99 V6 Accord which had a stalling problem. It stalled inconsistently, in any weather conditions, freeway driving or stopped at a light, in a turn, etc. It was pretty scary sometimes because I live in Colorado. It did not seem to match any of the typical symptoms. For over a year I tried to figure it out and nobody could help. The ignition switch and EGR valve were already replaced. I tried a tune up, premium gas, and additives. Even the dealership said it was more likely a fuel issue. But after replacing the $50 EFI main relay my problem was SOLVED. No stalling for six months. Good luck, I hope this helps.

My honda accord don't want to start the batteye is good

I also had this nightmare of a problem!! For the past 10 months my 1998 Honda Accord(155450 miles) would completely shut off when I am driving. It would just die but what I did notice every time this happened, for some strange reason the clock would remain on?? I talked to a lot of people regarding this problem and I got a lot of possible problems from fuel pump, bad distributor, bad fuel injector relay, distributor module, you name it I was told to replace everything or check it. Well me being so stubborn I didn't take it to the mechanic I replaced everything myself , I have spent well over $450.00 trying to correct the problem. And notthing fixed the problem!! :mad: :mad: To make a long story short I came to this website and someone posted that same problems and fixed it by installing a new IGNITION SWITCH!! Guess what that done it!! I have put well over 500 miles on my car since and haven't had this problem come back. I went to Auto Zone and the part was $42.00. Very easy to install if you are handy with a screwdriver. This website helped me out with a lot of headaches, and saved me money because I was getting ready to install a new fuel pump and these can get pretty expensive. If there is someone out there with the same problem you can email me and I can guide you step by step with instructions on how to install the switch. Thank god for the internet!! :) [email protected]

Mom has a 98 Accord. Car dies intermittently, and then won't start.

HOW IT DIES: The RPM's gradually drop (at random) until the idle no longer keeps the engine running. If you notice it dropping, you can give it gas and "ressurrect the idle" - which seems to be fine for awhile after.

AFTER IT DIES:
After the car dies (at random), it will turn over with a healthy crank, but not start unless you let it sit for 5 minutes or so. So far, this has happened in relatively warm weather (75+).

AFTER IT RE-STARTS:
No check engine lights are flagged, and the car runs fine for an indefinite amount of time (sometimes days).

My theory is, it has to be related to Engine Management (sensors, OBD, etc), Fuel Delivery (pump, relay, filter) or Ingition (spark, distributor, etc).

Has anyone experienced this? Dealership says they can't find out what's going on...

Many thanks.

I am having the same problem with my honda accord sir 98
But now it won't start at all like no gas can get through, when was going id be going about 100kz but every now and then it would feel like it wanted to cut out
I would have thort the filter is blocked and not letting gas through
But took it to a michanic and he told me I do not have a filter?

Perform the tests, in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563.html

Honda Chick, every Honda I have ever seen has a fuel filter. I recommend you take it to Honda for servicing. Replacing the Ignition Control Module, coil, main relay, and fuel filter will likely solve the problem, providing the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If the car cranks but won't start, the odds are greater than 90% that the problem is electrical-related, not fuel.

Honda Chick
I own a 1998 Honda accord

Had this problem happen to me. Car would idle and stop. Mechanic could not find a problem but Noted when he checked the fuel pressure it was in the 40 something psi range. I read it suppose to be 50 -55 range so I took a chance and changed the fuel regulator myself and it solved my problem. It holds the fuel back pressure on your system. Heard the Honda fuel pumps are pretty reliable so went with the regulator.

Same problem. I will not be purchasing a Honda product again. Poor service.

95% of the time Hondas that don't start in hot and humid weather is the result of the deteriorated solder welds on the FUEL MAIN RELAY. I've had this happen on not only my Acura but my girlfriends Accord. She was told her rims were too hot by the original owner. Ridiculous! Actually, it's an easy fix. I picked up 2 cheap on eBay. It took 5 minutes. To replace under the left side of dash... under the coin drawer. Both cars start every time now regardless of the temperature. If you can't replace the relay yet, you must make it cool off. Parking in the shade helps. Opening the doors for 10-20mins may be your only other option. Hope this helps!

Well I have a 98 honda 2 door coup with a 3.2 liter V6. It seems to be a little edgy lately. For the past couple of months periodically it would start, but run rough and then die, I would give another hit to the ignition and it would start and run fine.

A few days ago I went out to start the car, and it would just crank over, but wouldn't start. Knowing the past i walked away and tried again a few more times but it still wouldn't start. I called AAA and had it towed to a honda dealership where the next afternoon I get a call telling me that the car started just fine and they couldn't find any issues with it. I asked them to keep the car another day and try again.. but again no issues the car started fine.

I then pick up the car from the dealership and drive it home parking it in the driveway. Two days later go to drive it and it won't start. Give it some time and on the 3rd try about 30 minutes later it started. That was today in the afternoon. Since then I have continued to try to duplicate the issue with no luck.

What I'm noticing:
1.) All check engine lights and dash lights function properly. The check engine doesn't stay on.
2.) The engine cranks over like it normally does, however it doesn't start. (haven't been able to verify if their is a lack of spark) But I have always dealt with electronic components that either work or don't.
3.) I can't hear the fuel pump but then again I never have heard the fuel pump before. Again I thought they either work or don't.
4.) This issue seems to have only happen on hot days ( to my knowledge)

Is anyone experienced this with another Honda?



I'm no expert at all, but may I suggest checking the "fuel shut off swith"?( I assume it is stand on all vehicles?)The reason I mention this is several years ago my friend had the same speratic thing happen to his Ford Broncho and after several months of frustration he discovered it to be a faulty fuel shut-off switch that is supposed to shut off the fuel pump in a collision.It was location under the passenger dash in his Broncho.Again, I have no idea if this applies to your car, but it sure sounds the very same.Regards and good-luck... DaveT

I have 1999 honda accord starting problem.fuel is nort cominng but fuel pump is OK.engine is moving very good but not starting

1998 Honda 3.2 V6 Coupe
No answer on this yet but here is my time with it.

My car ran like a top.
I went on vacation for 9 days and car sat in cool garage.
Car started and ran fine when I got home in the morning.
Check engine light came on during morning drive in (summertime 100+ heat). “EGR valve restriction flow” (sorry, don't remember exact code).
It started displaying crappy starting behavior over the next couple of days, 5-7 cranks (up from like one-crank and fire) and it would fire if cold and run flaky for a couple seconds before stabilizing. If warm, starting was hit or miss but I could always get it started eventually via swearing, intimidation, and tough love. It would ALWAYS run rough for that two-second period and then level off. It DID NOT rev up and then back down. Just crappy two seconds, and up to 900-1000 RPM like nothing happened. If I ran it, shut it off, and then tried to start it shortly thereafter, nothing. I would have to wait for a while to try again.
An afternoon later it would not start. Fuel pump was not engaging at "Batt-On" so I figured it was a bad fuel pump causing the issue or perhaps a blown fuse (200K on original fuel pump, go Honda). Fuses were good so I looked at fuel pump (You can easily hear the fuel pump on a 98 Honda Accord. It runs for two seconds. It's in front of driver side rear wheel, black box under near-center of car. Open driver door in somewhat quiet environment and turn battery "on" without starting car. That little whine is the fuel pump). I "tapped" on the fuel pump a few times in the parking lot, it engaged, and the car started but had same crappy starting behavior. It sounded like it was starving, flooding, or just generally couldn’t figure out what it wanted to do for those first couple seconds and then was fine. I limped it to Goodyear for a new fuel pump. They confirmed a bad fuel pump bearing but admitted that it was “still doing it.” Knowing that the EGR valve and other components were brand new, they mentioned the possibility of carbon build-up in the EGR port and other places within the engine. I took the car for testing.
I went back to Goodyear and they were good enough to do some exploratory surgery to confirm that the EGR port (in front of EGR valve, not valve itself) was VERY restricted with carbon build-up and that the intake manifold chamber was also quite built-up with carbon. You cannot clean the intake manifold chamber any easier than replacing it (especially when you’re paying someone). I had Goodyear replace the intake manifold chamber (there is actually a Honda Service Bulletin out for this exact problem), clean out the EGR port (be careful with drill bit procedure: DO NOT USE POWER DRILL. Just by hand.), replace PCV valve, PCV hose, replace throttle body gasket, clean throttle body assembly, and test the fuel pump that they recently installed. I had them do all vacuum testing and electrical testing they could do. They said vacuum tests all came back good. Electrical, same thing. Now, whether they really did any vacuum and electrical testing I will never know but I like the shop.
Car runs like brand NEW! ….. once it starts.
I think it’s got to be something electrical and reading through these notes and others it sure sounds like a relay problem but all the relays tested well. I might replace the fuel pump relay and main relay as a test even though they tested good. I really hope it’s not the computer wigging out. I want to make 300K+ on this guy.
I will keep updating this post as I think I’ve done quite a bit in the name of replacing “what-if” parts but at this moment it’s a big “WTF?”

Hi, I have same problem, Accord coupe 98 sometimes don't start. Every start great but twice maybe after tenth try. Every time when problem occurred car was whole day on summer sun. My mechanic after two hours when he chech pump many others said that imobilizer don't turn on pump, so he make some magic with wires and car works. Ok starting sound like 50's car and my clima and engine ventilator stop working, but it works. So where is problem? Clima and ventialtor could be his mistake while changing wires. He said that main rele could be damaged. Any ideas? Why imobilizer don't activate pump and direct connection yes? Could it be rele or how can outdoor temperature affect imobilizer pump activation?

Hi, I have same problem, Accord coupe 98 sometimes don't start. Every start great but twice maybe after tenth try. Every time when problem occurred car was whole day on summer sun. My mechanic after two hours when he chech pump many others said that imobilizer don't turn on pump, so he make some magic with wires and car works. Ok starting sound like 50's car and my clima and engine ventilator stop working, but it works. So where is problem? Clima and ventialtor could be his mistake while changing wires. He said that main rele could be damaged. Any ideas? Why imobilizer don't activate pump and direct connection yes? Could it be rele or how can outdoor temperature affect imobilizer pump activation?

Hi, I have same problem, Accord coupe 98 sometimes don't start. Every start great but twice maybe after tenth try. Every time when problem occurred car was whole day on summer sun. My mechanic after two hours when he chech pump many others said that imobilizer don't turn on pump, so he make some magic with wires and car works. Ok starting sound like 50's car and my clima and engine ventilator stop working, but it works. So where is problem? Clima and ventialtor could be his mistake while changing wires. He said that main rele could be damaged. Any ideas? Why imobilizer don't activate pump and direct connection yes? Could it be rele or how can outdoor temperature affect imobilizer pump activation?

Hi, I have same problem, Accord coupe 98 sometimes don't start. Every start great but twice maybe after tenth try. Every time when problem occurred car was whole day on summer sun. My mechanic after two hours when he chech pump many others said that imobilizer don't turn on pump, so he make some magic with wires and car works. Ok starting sound like 50's car and my clima and engine ventilator stop working, but it works. So where is problem? Clima and ventialtor could be his mistake while changing wires. He said that main rele could be damaged. Any ideas? Why imobilizer don't activate pump and direct connection yes? Could it be rele or how can outdoor temperature affect imobilizer pump activation?

Hi, I have same problem, Accord coupe 98 sometimes don't start. Every start great but twice maybe after tenth try. Every time when problem occurred car was whole day on summer sun. My mechanic after two hours when he chech pump many others said that imobilizer don't turn on pump, so he make some magic with wires and car works. Ok starting sound like 50's car and my clima and engine ventilator stop working, but it works. So where is problem? Clima and ventialtor could be his mistake while changing wires. He said that main rele could be damaged. Any ideas? Why imobilizer don't activate pump and direct connection yes? Could it be rele or how can outdoor temperature affect imobilizer pump activation?

My 02 accord has a problem every now and then. It won't hold the idle then kill then I have to give it gas just to start and steddy tapin on the gas for it to stay started. I wait until the next day it stars rite up. Trick Honda they don't know nuttin and then they built the car. I think it might be injectors or something...

Accord g23, try cleaning the throttle plate, throttle body, and Idle Air Control Valve:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1054149

Afterwards, clean the air box and replace the air filter.

I to will be buying a new main relay for the ecm, It could be a bad switch, even thou it is new. Also check that your battery cables are good. If that does not work haw about the parking safety switch, I know nothing about the switch. If your geyting the light on your shifter selection flashing? I would look into another Main Switch again. I know of plenty of people that have bought relays that wear no good. As my father bought a fan relay switch from auto zone, it was bad out of the box. No Lie. It could have caused a lot of trouble. Enjoy

Found another reason why this may happen. We just bought a 98 accord, and it had never happened to the man that owned it.. so he said. We found out that if you have the valet key or any other Honda chip type key on your ring, the receiver in the steering column tries to read both keys and the car will act super flaky and cut off on you with the flashing green key on the panel.

I have a 2000 honda accord that won't start unless u hold the gas and as soon as u stop hoilding the gas down it shuts off what di I do?

. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, if you have the 4-cylinder Accord:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

. Replace the platinum spark plugs (NGK only), if they have not been changed in the last 3 years or 45,000 miles.

Hi All

Help and advice required

I have a 5 Door Honda Accord Saloon(S Reg – 1998) 135000 Miles on clock, I have had my Honda for the past 8 years and I have had no problems with it, until the past 1 year it’s been playing up. Sometimes what happens is when I start the engine and let the key go, the engine switches of again, I need to try multiple times before the car starts or I may have to keep the gas pressed and rev it for a while for the engine to stay on, I was driving once and the engine went of which was a bit scary.. I’ve changed the spark plugs and the fuel filter and I still have the same issue, my mate told me to take it to Honda dealers and tell them to run a diagnostic tool which may 50/50 detect the fault, but that costs £70 quid

The main thing I’ve noticed is that that I never have problems in WINTER when it cold, for some reason it’s always an issue in SUMMER or when the engine gets warm after I’ve driven it for a 10 minutes or even if I’ve left it under the sun.

I have taken it to mechanics and they all say different things, this is what they have told me to change , because they all have said different I’m confused and don’t want to be wasting money as I cannot afford it, I would really appreciate your professional advice

Battery- Changed
Starter Motor – I'm sure it’s not that
Spark Plugs – I changed it 6 weeks ago
Fuel Filter – I changed it 6 weeks ago
HT Leads - The leads that go from the distributor to the spark plugs – can't be this

My car looks like - http://images.drive24.co.uk/RXC_D24Images/supplier_ddi/motor/orig/51670A.jpg/Image.ashx


I’m Having problems starting up my car, Help required

I have a 2000 honda accord that wont start unless u hold the gas and as soon as u stop hoilding the gas down it shuts off what di i do?

Hi

I have 1998 honda accord, I have the same problem, have you found the solution yet? Have you notices the same thing happens when your car is warm

I had a simlar problem with my honda accord and it turn out to be the starter relay

Hi

What a starter relay, and how much does it cost? I seem to have the seem issue

I I have an S REG 1998 honda accord The main thing I’ve noticed is that that I never have problems in WINTER when it cold, for some reason it’s always an issue in SUMMER or when the engine gets warm after I’ve driven it for a 10 minutes or even if I’ve left it under the sun, I think it's the main relay? Do you reckon?

Where is the main relay and how does it look like?

Krypto, it exhibits classic signs of main relay failure. If the problem persists, after replacing the main relay, replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

I have a 2000 honda accord that wont start unless u hold the gas and as soon as u stop hoilding the gas down it shuts off what di i do?

I I have an S REG 1998 honda accord I have the same issue, The main thing I’ve noticed is that that I never have problems in WINTER when it cold, for some reason it’s always an issue in SUMMER or when the engine gets warm after I’ve driven it for a 10 minutes or even if I’ve left it under the sun, I think it's the main relay? Do you reckon?

Where is the main relay and how does it look like?

Left of the steering column:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-5.html#post518093

Guys, I have the same issue here, the car stalled while driving in the highway. The car will not start thereafter, even when the weather is cold or warm (Michigan April weather). I was able to tow the car home. The car was original owned by our family, so there is no 2nd hand owner. The car have 289K miles. I start during online research and begin working on this issue. Here is where I started.
1. Checked the battery by replacing with a known good battery. I did not start.
2. I opened the timing belt cover and the belt was good.
3. I checked for the hummmm sound and click sound when turning the key to II, I heard hummmm and click. Fuel pump is good.
4. I begin to look into the Main Relay and Iginition Switch. The switch was the issue. We never brought the car to the dealer to get the switch relaced.
There are a couple website that helped me fix my problem. Both website are excellent and very details with animation pictures showing the problem.

Iginition Switch Problem in details with pictures
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Recalled Issues w/phone number
http://www.automallusa.net/1998/honda/accord/recalls.html

Good Luck!
LH

Guys, I have the same issue here, the car stalled while driving in the highway. The car will not start thereafter, even when the weather is cold or warm (Michigan April weather). I was able to tow the car home. The car was original owned by our family, so there is no 2nd hand owner. The car have 289K miles. I start during online research and begin working on this issue. Here is where I started.
1. Checked the battery by replacing with a known good battery. I did not start.
2. I opened the timing belt cover and the belt was good.
3. I checked for the hummmm sound and click sound when turning the key to II, I heard hummmm and click. Fuel pump is good.
4. I begin to look into the Main Relay and Iginition Switch. The switch was the issue. We never brought the car to the dealer to get the switch relaced.
There are a couple website that helped me fix my problem. Both website are excellent and very details with animation pictures showing the problem.

Iginition Switch Problem in details with pictures
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Recalled Issues w/phone number
http://www.automallusa.net/1998/honda/accord/recalls.html

Good Luck!
LH

Guys, I have the same issue here, the car stalled while driving in the highway. The car will not start thereafter, even when the weather is cold or warm (Michigan April weather). I was able to tow the car home. The car was original owned by our family, so there is no 2nd hand owner. The car have 289K miles. I start during online research and begin working on this issue. Here is where I started.
1. Checked the battery by replacing with a known good battery. I did not start.
2. I opened the timing belt cover and the belt was good.
3. I checked for the hummmm sound and click sound when turning the key to II, I heard hummmm and click. Fuel pump is good.
4. I begin to look into the Main Relay and Iginition Switch. The switch was the issue. We never brought the car to the dealer to get the switch relaced.
There are a couple website that helped me fix my problem. Both website are excellent and very details with animation pictures showing the problem.

Iginition Switch Problem in details with pictures
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Recalled Issues w/phone number
http://www.automallusa.net/1998/honda/accord/recalls.html

Good Luck!
LH

Guys, I have the same issue here, the car stalled while driving in the highway. The car will not start thereafter, even when the weather is cold or warm (Michigan April weather). I was able to tow the car home. The car was original owned by our family, so there is no 2nd hand owner. The car have 289K miles. I start during online research and begin working on this issue. Here is where I started.
1. Checked the battery by replacing with a known good battery. I did not start.
2. I opened the timing belt cover and the belt was good.
3. I checked for the hummmm sound and click sound when turning the key to II, I heard hummmm and click. Fuel pump is good.
4. I begin to look into the Main Relay and Iginition Switch. The switch was the issue. We never brought the car to the dealer to get the switch relaced.
There are a couple website that helped me fix my problem. Both website are excellent and very details with animation pictures showing the problem.

Iginition Switch Problem in details with pictures
How to replace the ignition switch or troubleshoot (Honda, Acura) (http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html)

Recalled Issues w/phone number
1998 Honda Accord Recalls, Problems, & 1998 Honda Accord Recall Details (http://www.automallusa.net/1998/honda/accord/recalls.html)

Good Luck!
LH

guys, I have the same issue here, the car stalled while driving in the highway. The car will not start thereafter, even when the weather is cold or warm (Michigan April weather). I was able to tow the car home. The car was original owned by our family, so there is no 2nd hand owner. the car have 289K miles. I start during online research and begin working on this issue. Here is where I started.
1. Checked the battery by replacing with a known good battery. I did not start.
2. I opened the timing belt cover and the belt was good.
3. I checked for the hummmm sound and click sound when turning the key to II, I heard hummmm and click. fuel pump is good.
4. I begin to look into the Main Relay and Iginition Switch. The switch was the issue. We never brought the car to the dealer to get the switch relaced.
There are a couple website that helped me fix my problem. Both website are excellent and very details with animation pictures showing the problem.

Iginition Switch Problem in details with pictures
How to replace the ignition switch or troubleshoot (Honda, Acura) (http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html)

Recalled Issues w/phone number
1998 Honda Accord Recalls, Problems, & 1998 Honda Accord Recall Details (http://www.automallusa.net/1998/honda/accord/recalls.html)

Good Luck!
LH

You the man. I soldered the dry joints on the circuit board of the main relay and its looking good. Thanks all that crap advice I got from honda dealers and different mechanics was a load of crap. TxGreaseMonkey you rock

you the man. i soldered the dry joints on the circuit board of the main relay and its looking good. thanks all that crap advice i got from honda dealers and different mechanics was a load of crap. TxGreaseMonkey you rock

TxGreaseMonkey = 10/10

Im having problems with my 98 honda accord it all started a month or so ago it started but kind of sluggish choppy I guess . The it got worse it would take twice to start it then I left work and it didn't start I went home got rest went back it started went to leave it died going through the light towed it home anyway replaced the fuel pump checked the main relay with a new one allso checked all the fuses and the ignition so I don't know what it is I took it too the shop today .

kevjr, replace the Ignition Control Module:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

I lately have been working on Hondas all the time. I mean that's the only thing people are bringing to me (maybe cause I own 3 of them) and 2 of them had this same problem. One ended up being the distributor and the other was the E.C.M. If your car seems to run fine for a min. and then tends to act up (when it runs for a long time) most likely it's the distributor. My other one that had the e.c.m. problem I auctually pulled the carpet back to locate it and took a lite smell of it and it smelled burnt(electrical burnt) and it was causing my injectors to not open.

I had a similar intermittent starting problem. I researched it and found that it is often caused by a cracked main relay board (up under dash)When it was hot it would expand and not start. It usually started when it was cold (in the garage) I had it replaced (the reapir guy did not believe me... Until he replaced it and it has worked for years now!)

Hey guys, I have a honda accord 1990 model, which is doing the same thing, not starting sometimes, its an EX model, can someone tell where where the main relay is if I need to check that or something else, thanks

Under dash, left of the steering column (hidden by the silver cruise control box, which needs to be removed).

Thanks, so if that did not work, any other suggestions?

Replace the Ignition Control Module and coil, which I suspect are causing the problem, if the CEL comes on and goes off normally:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

Consider getting a JDM (http://www.jdmengineswapdepot.com/) engine. It's from Japan, and a lot of the engines are in excellent condition.

I am having the same problem. All the lights are fine, the battery is less than 3 months old. When I tried starting it, the car cranks up but does not start (happened 3-4 times now.. in all kinds of weather). It does start after 15 minutes of trying. Not sure what the problem is. Took it to the mechanic, he said unless the problem happens again and you get the car towed in that condition they can only guess as to what is wrong. Is it a good idea to change the main relay/spark plugs rather than waiting for the problem to occur again. As that's the main cause in most of the post over here.

I got a '99 Honda Accord Lx - 4 cylinder.

rrd39, if the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor. Common problem on Hondas. Be sure to apply the silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM.

Thanks Texasgrease Monkey, unfortunately the car didn't start today morning , so got it towed to Strauss Auto, they running a diagnostic to see what's wrong.. didn't know Honda could give so much trouble. Wait to hear back from them after the diagnostics.

I replaced starter on my 1998 honda accord lx and now its turning over faster than normal but not starting, I can hear fuel pump, and main relay click afterwards, where should I start from here...

For the past few months I've encountered this problem, the car if left in the sun would start and die and after a few starts would go some distance and in the middle of the road would just freeze, and now the latest is it refused to start,so I changed the batteries,it starts fine, but again it stopped abruptly after going a couple of kms. What could be d problem? Starter ? Any help is appreciated.

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, located inside the distributor. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.