I have my plumbing all hooked up and it's working fine. Before I modify the drawers to fit around the plumbing I was wondering if there was any way to raise the p trap and waste drain without tearing into the wall. I had to add a 6" tailpipe extender to my sink and if I was able to raise it 3" instead of 6" I won't have to modify one of the drawers.
I know the p trap has to be below the waste line but can I raise the waste line with pvc adaptors?8918

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There's no way you can raise the stub-out without opening up the wall and cutting into the stack. The only way that I know of get around that is to put a 90 on the stub-out, bring it up and build a "S" trap. And even that's depending on if you have enough room behind the drawers to install a 90 and bring it up to another elbo. Be aware that "S" traps are illegal, but that's the only way without notching the drawers or shelf. Good luck, Tom

There's no way you can raise the stub-out without opening up the wall and cutting into the stack. The only way that I know of get around that is to put a 90 on the stub-out, bring it up and build a "S" trap. And even that's depending on if you have enough room behind the drawers to install a 90 and bring it up to another elbo. Be aware that "S" traps are illegal, but that's the only way without notching the drawers or shelf. Good luck, Tom
The vanity sits out 5.5" from the back wall. The dresser wasn't deep enough to accommodate a sink so I built a countertop for it.

Do you have enough room to simply extend the tailpiece? Regards, Tom

Do you have enough room to simply extend the tailpiece? Regards, Tom
The waste line stub that comes out of the wall is 5" long and then connects to a 22.5 and then another elbow to connect to p trap. I already extended to tailpiece from the sink but want to eliminate about 3" of that by raising stub out with elbows and still have a p 8920trap

The vanity sits out 5.5" from the back wall.

If that means that there is 5.5" between the wall and the back of the vanity,(it's hard to tell from the picture), two 45 should raise the waste line approximately 3" and should require 5" to install.

If that means that there is 5.5" between the wall and the back of the vanity,(it's hard to tell from the picture), two 45 should raise the waste line approximately 3" and should require 5" to install.
I was try to draw something like you did but couldn't. Great job! That's exactly what I wanted to do. Can you see the way the p trap is sideways? Is there a way to have it run perpendicular?The drawing is terrible but I want to angle to the right then go up and out so p trap is aligned behind tailpiece to sink.8922

A short piece of pipe (3 to 5") between the 45's will increase the rise, then roll that assembly clock-wise to decrease the rise back to 3" and move horizontally to the right about 3". You will have to play around with it to find correct length of pipe and correct amount of roll. Or two 90's rolled to the right.

The only problem with Harolds solution is that he has built you a "S" trap that's illegal as I explained in my first post.
You ask,
I already extended to tailpiece from the sink but want to eliminate about 3" of that by raising stub out with elbows and still have a "P" trap?
No way! The second you put a upturned fitting on the stubout you will have started to build a "S" trap. If all this is are cosmetics then I would keep what you have. Regards, Tom

Harold,
Make a wall line and draw a stubout coming out of it. Now draw in a elbo looking up with a short piece for a raiser. Now draw in another elbo on top of the raiser the pick up the trap. Now draw in the "P" trap. What's it look like? That's right, Sports Fans, the second you place any up turned fitting to raise the stubout you have begun to build a "S" trap. Sorry Harold, Didn't mean to rain all over your parade. Tom

I deleted that post, which apparently you read before I could delete it, because it occurred to me that I didn't know the precise definition of an "S" trap. I Goggled "S" trap and came up with an explanation by some plumber down in Florida that explained it very well. I was not disagreeing, ( I make it a practice not to disagree with someone who is never wrong) just didn't know the precise definition.

Of course, given the short length of that lateral, and me being the cantankerous
Old f@#% that I am, I'd do it anyway.

Cheers,

I make it a practice not to disagree with someone who is never wrong)I hope you don't think I'm not just some "know it all" that takes pleasure in correcting posts. If you were offended I apologize. As for;

Of course, given the short length of that lateral, and me being the cantankerous
Old f@#% that I am, I'd do it anyway
You still would have built a "S" trap but I got to confess.
My companion,Teresa Marie, owns a house on the water she's remodeling. She bought a real nice vanity that she wanted me to install. Problem! The stubout was too low and if I trapped from the stubout I would have to notch the shelf. I built the neatest little "S" trap you ever saw out of copper.
I had to install the vanity that way but this gal wants to install a "S" trap for cosmetic reasons and I couldn't go along with that. Again, I'm sorry if I ruffled any feathers. That certainly wasn't my intention. Have a great week end! Tom

Oh no, didn't mean it that way, it was meant as acknowledgment of you knowledge and expertise, I am familiar with your post going back to the AskMe.com days. Just can't imagine you ever being incorrect about plumbing. That Florida plumber Google pulled up for a precise definition of a "S" trap you of course. A failed attempt at humor on my part. Guess I should have said, "I know better than to disagree with someone as knowledgeable as you".

My apologies,

I hope you don't think I'm not just some "know it all" that takes pleasure in correcting posts. If you were offended I apologize. As for;

you still would have built a "S" trap but I gotta confess.
My companion,Teresa Marie, owns a house on the water she's remodeling. She bought a real nice vanity that she wanted me to install. Problem! The stubout was too low and if I trapped from the stubout I would have to notch the shelf. I built the neatest little "S" trap ya ever saw out of copper.
I had to install the vanity that way but this gal wants to install a "S" trap for cosmetic reasons and I couldn't go along with that. Again, I'm sorry if I ruffled any feathers. That certainly wasn't my intention. Have a great week end! tom

Okay guys I won't change the plumbing. I guess that's why they don't show anyone doing that when installing an antique vanity. I will cut the drawers :( . I am learning so much .

One last thought Patty:

You could also cut the pvc pipe coming out of the wall so only 1" of pipe remained. Then install the ptrap onto the pipe directly (no 22.5 or 45 degree fitting), then push the trap tight to the wall (so u part of the trap is parallel to the wall).

Then come out of the trap using 1 street 45 and 1 regular 45 to OFFSET into the drain for sink... you may need to cut the tailpiece from the lavatory pop-up assembly to make this all fit.

You would also need a street desanco fitting (maybe a regular desanco fitting) to attach the pvc to the tailpiece of the lavatory pop-up assembly (see pic... may need to TILT your head to see the pic.).

NOW....what does this accomplish for you...???

NOT MUCH!! But it will allow you to cut out LESS of the drawer!!

If you decide it is worth trying, DRY FIT all first!

Just a thought!! ;)

Have a good day all! Mark.

Hey Patty,
Okay guys I won't change the plumbing. I guess that's why they don't show anyone doing that when installing an antique vanity. I will cut the drawers .
Ya know you still have the option of installing a "S" trap if notching the drawers is the only other option. My friend had augured against notching into the shelf If I could build a "S" trap so she wouldn't have to. In the end I installed one and the vanity's draining just fine. So you have the choice. It goes against my nature to tell you to install a "S" trap but if nitching the drawers is a no-no then I would exercise my option. Good luck in whatever you decide. Tom

One last thought Patty:

You could also cut the pvc pipe coming out of the wall so only 1" of pipe remained. Then install the ptrap onto the pipe directly (no 22.5 or 45 degree fitting), then push the trap tight to the wall (so u part of the trap is parallel to the wall).

Then come out of the trap using 1 street 45 and 1 regular 45 to OFFSET into the drain for sink....you may need to cut the tailpiece from the lavatory pop-up assembly to make this all fit.

You would also need a street desanco fitting (maybe a regular desanco fitting) to attach the pvc to the tailpiece of the lavatory pop-up assembly (see pic....may need to TILT your head to see the pic.).

NOW....what does this accomplish for you...???

NOT MUCH!!!! But it will allow you to cut out LESS of the drawer!!!
I have cut and left 1 " coming out of the wall. The trap comes off by unscrewing it from the tailpiece and the 90 with threads. The 90 and 22? are cemented. I will get a 90 with threads and cement it to the 1 " stub -connect trap- swivel it paralell to wall and.... wait a minute the trap I have has that fitting built into it to accept the tailpiece. so do i need one that will accept the street 45 and regular 45 to tailpiece and desanco fitting for tailpiece?8948

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If you decide it is worth trying, DRY FIT all first!

Just a thought!!! ;)

Have a good day all!! Mark.
Thanks

Exactly Patty... exactly.

Just get a REGULAR union ptrap and then install the 45s and get that desanco in my pic. (also pick up a street desanco).
Then prime/cement the new union 90 onto 1" stubout, put trap parallel to wall, etc.

You need an 1.5" PVC x 1.25" desanco fitting (or one that transitions to both by having a large and a smaller washer).

You should also pick up a small can of pipe dope or rectorseal or similar to apply to the threads of the union trap (better seal than plastic on plastic... ;) ).

Let us know how it goes! MARK

PS... NICE STRAIGHT CUT ON THAT PIPE!!!!. You're hired!

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Exactly Patty...exactly.

Just get a REGULAR union ptrap and then install the 45s and get that desanco in my pic. (also pick up a street desanco).
Then prime/cement the new union 90 onto 1" stubout, put trap parallel to wall, etc.

You need an 1.5" PVC x 1.25" desanco fitting (or one that transitions to both by having a large and a smaller washer).

You should also pick up a small can of pipe dope or rectorseal or similar to apply to the threads of the union trap (better seal than plastic on plastic...;) ).

Let us know how it goes!! MARK

PS...NICE STRAIGHT CUT ON THAT PIPE!!!!. You're hired!!

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Pipe dope? Are you kidding? No I use that on all my screw on plumbing connections. Learned that from my pool pump!! On my way to HD. Let you know shortly.
Thanks,
Patty
I just happened to pick up a close quarters hacksaw which I have needed numerous times and didn't have. I tend to be a kind of perfectionist!

I can tell... woman after my own heart Patty! Good luck!

I can tell...woman after my own heart Patty!! Good luck!
Ok I did it! Here's the pictures. The drawer closes all the way and will only have to cut a small slot in the other two drawers. I am so excited. Let me know if this is right or not. I had to cut a little more off the cabinet backing but that won't get see since there are drawers instead of doors.
Thanks Again!8954

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By the way the guy at home depot tried to sell me a cheap p trap set up and I told him no - that I was doing it the way a master plumber told me to!!

Hey Patty.. pretty good!

Honestly... very impressed.. and I want anyone that reads this to note that she went to store, returned AND FIT THIS TOGETHER in... 1 hour 11 minutes (including posting time... and the fact that she did not know she was being timed by me).

It really does look good... I guess I am torn. The plumber in me wants 45s in there if can accomplish the same end result.

If still dry fit... AND YOU DARE... try dry fitting with the 45s (may need to cut the tailpiece from lav. Drain here... but dry fit/pretend fit to check this)... otherwise I say you did great!

AND you were right.. and you knew it without us telling you... PVC all the way! Some... just some of those home supply guys can be sooo scary!

Nice job!

Hey Patty..pretty good!!

Honestly...very impressed..and I want anyone that reads this to note that she went to store, returned AND FIT THIS TOGETHER in...1 hour 11 minutes (including posting time...and the fact that she did not know she was being timed by me).

It really does look good....I guess I am torn. The plumber in me wants 45s in there if can accomplish the same end result.

If still dry fit...AND YOU DARE....try dry fitting with the 45s (may need to cut the tailpiece from lav. drain here...but dry fit/pretend fit to check this)...otherwise I say you did great!!

AND you were right..and you knew it without us telling you...PVC all the way!! Some...just some of those home supply guys can be sooo scary!!

nice job!
I took the whole piece I cut off to home depot and used the edge of the counter like a wall and couldn't get the 45's to work where it would meet up straight with the tailpiece. Everything is still dry fitted so it can be changed. Thanks for the compliments. I have had to do everything since my husband passed away over 20 years ago. I am well trained since he was a Marine and I had to do everything back then too!

Patty... if that sink is draining well. You are done... and God bless you!

You did really great!

And ignore the stuff below... trying out a new "signature"!

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Patty...if that sink is draining well. You are done...and God bless you!!

You did really great!

And ignore the stuff below...trying out a new "signature"!!

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You are great!! You helped me with my Swanstone retrofit plumbing and now this. I have a toilet and sink but now working shower yet. My son and his family are coming to visit so I will finish the cbu and tile after they leave. Thank you so much for your advice and help. Cant't trust those HD guys. If they were good they wouldn't be working at HD! LOL
:D

Keep us posted... I have a feeling you aren't done yet! ;)

Mark

Keep us posted...I have a feeling you aren't done yet!! ;)

Mark
I forgot to add that when I went to HD I stopped and got a hamburger,fries,and onion rings from Whataburger. That took about 10 minutes of my time!! :) I have a question posted about my kitchen sink. It's double with dishwasher and garbage disposal. When I put the stopper in the side w/o the disposal the disposal side drains very slow. When I replaced the sink and counter top I put the plumbing back the way it was. Some one is telling me now that I need to install a wye and trap both sinks. It's been like this for 5 years and just annoys me.
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I had to clean out from under the sink before taking pictures:p

Hey Patty:

If the sink drained fine before changing out the sink and countertop then I need to ask... how long was it between time you took out the sink and countertop and the time you put them back in..?

If was awhile... the gunk that lines the walls of old pipes may have dried up and then when installed the sink back the dried gunk got rewetted and has started to cause a slight blockage to the drain line..

If was not awhile and was swapped sink/counter was swapped out quickly then it is one of 2 or 3 things:

1) something got distrurbed in the drain line... may need to take apart plumbing and snake the drain line

2) Disposal has something in it causing it to drain slow or disposal has actually always done this and you are just now noticing because you changed out the plumbing and well... noticed!

For #2... unplug the disposal from under sink, then reach into disposal and see if anything is clogging the sides of inside... otherwise, sounds like the disposal has been using the other sink as a vent for years and again, you are now just kind of noticing this... maybe?

I would try to snake the drain and see if that improved things... then connect it all up and try disposal again... see what happens.

The disposal, the drain OR the vent is clogged or non-existent (check out roof for vent over sink area... let us know if present... may need to snake down this vent line to clear this issue).

Fill both sinks to the rim, then just let them drain... let me know what happened..

Let me know what you think... MARK

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Hey Patty,
Although we always install our disposals with a separate trap. I was in error to advise running two traps on your set up. I don't think it's the trap or a clogged kitchen vent. There's no doubt that the disposal's venting through the other side of the sink. The proof of that is evident when you stopper off the sink and the disposal drains slow. I want you to try this for me. Stop off the two tubs and fill both with water. Now pull the disposal stopper. Drains slow doesn't it? Now, while the disposal's draining lift the black flapper located in the mouth of the drain to open up the mouth of the drain Does it begain to drain faster? If so you've located the source of your problem. What I think is happening here is that thye flap0p0er cuts off the air flow so the disposal vents through the continuous waste. Putting the stopper in the other tub stops the vent action abd the disposal begins to drain slow. Lifting on the flapper lets more air to enter the disposal allowing it to vent through the mouth of the disposal instead of the other tub. Just a few stray thoughts from, "The Other Guy"

Hey Patty... sounds like Tom may be on to something here. Try what he suggested, let us know!

Hey Patty...sounds like Tom may be on to something here. Try what he suggested, let us know!!
I did what Tom said and it did drain faster but After I adjusted the hose so it would be higher helped. Always wondered why that hose was so long!
I got the plumbing done and the drawers cut for the vanity and only lost a little drawer space. I love it and the sink is draining fine. I guess an s trap before a p trap won't siphon water from the p trap. Thanks again for your help and concern.
Patty9008

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Great job on your part!

Looks really good. If sink is still issue, then may need to snake the drain as suggested earlier.

Did you fill sinks and drain sinks..?

Great job on your part!!

Looks really good. If sink is still issue, then may need to snake the drain as suggested earlier.

Did you fill sinks and drain sinks...??
Yes I did and the one with the garbage disposal came in a close second. I'm going to concentrate on finishing the bathroom for right now and I'll deal with the kitchen later.
What is your opinion on the GE Smartwater undersink water filtration system that has a faucet above the sink? It's the one for about $77.00 at HD.Right now I have a faucet filter . Works great but I think they are ugly. My soap dispenser broke and I was thinking about using that hole for the water purifier.
Thanks,
Patty

Hi Patty:

I think this is a really good, reasonably priced filter system. I have installed 3 of them and was happy with connectors and overall design. Be sure to install a dedicated shutoff to this unit... ;)

Comes in single or dual stage filter systems (see pics... about time I got to post a pic. Or two... :p ).

The dual cartridge, basically... has a sediment pre-filter. If you are on well water this may be a good choice for you... ;) .

If city/town water... single stage filter should be good.

Most important here will be to purchase at least 2 or 3 extra filter (or filter sets) so you won't have to be trying to search for these filters next year just to find out that they have UPGRADED!! And filter(s) not READILY available anymore.. it happens!

Anyway... hope that helped some. Let me know if need more info... my customers reported good results with this filter.

Mark

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Hi Patty:

I think this is a really good, reasonably priced filter system. I have installed 3 of them and was happy with connectors and overall design. Be sure to install a dedicated shutoff to this unit...;)

Comes in single or dual stage filter systems (see pics....about time I got to post a pic. or two...:p ).

The dual cartridge, basically...has a sediment pre-filter. If you are on well water this may be a good choice for you...;) .

If city/town water...single stage filter should be good.

Most important here will be to purchase at least 2 or 3 extra filter (or filter sets) so you won't have to be trying to search for these filters next year just to find out that they have UPGRADED!!! and filter(s) not READILY available anymore..it happens!!

Anyway...hope that helped some. Let me know if need more info...my customers reported good results with this filter.

Mark

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Ok now I'm thinking of going for a whole house system. I'm just cinfused on where my water enters the house. I think it's where the hot water heater is in the garage. Just not sure on which system to purchase. They say the Whirlpool is good. I have city water. It is pretty hard. So many people have water softeners but I think I just want a whole house water filtration system. Don't know!

Whole house filters are either single or double stage filter systems much like the systems we were discussing for under sink...

If on city water, can always call city and ask for analysis of water in your city. I bet information is published yearly in fact (public information)... let me know..?

Can call these guys and determine if a water softener will help things... or is unnecessary. They should also be able to advise best filter system for your water type.

Let me know what you think... how it works out... MARK

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