Anybody know if it's possible to get electrical receptacles for a 20 amp circuit that are backwired to accept 20 gauge wire? All I ever see is 15 amp size. They are so simple and quick. I want to add a new line and outlets in the kitchen so we can use the coffeemaker, microwave and toaster all at the same time without tripping the breaker. :confused:I am putting the GFCI in the breaker box.

You CAN use 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.
I assume you mean "quickwire" as opposed to back wire. I also assume you mean 12 gauge wire as opposed to 20 gauge.

If you mean quick wire then DO NOT bother. They are completely NOT worth the slight savings in time. They are notorious for failing prematurely.
Besides, they do not make them for #12 wire any more as it has been illegal to use quickwire for 20A circuits for many years now.

You DON'T want to backwire your recepticles, ESPECIALLY Heavy Loads.
They are a main source of many problems. It is Lazy(easy).
If for some reason you feel you must, and if it is allowed, Pigtail so if a problem occurs, it only affects that outlet. The Neutral MUST be Pigtailed(Can't have a white plugged in hole, and another white in another hole, in same recepticle).
I wouldn't, and don't do it.

You CAN use 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.
I assume you mean "quickwire" as opposed to back wire. I also assume you mean 12 gauge wire as opposed to 20 gauge.

If you mean quick wire then DO NOT bother. They are completely NOT worth the slight savings in time. They are notorious for failing prematurely.
Besides, they do not make them for #12 wire any more as it has been illegal to use quickwire for 20A circuits for many years now.
I agree 100% with the above !

The Neutral MUST be Pigtailed(Can't have a white plugged in hole, and another white in another hole, in same recepticle). Sorry Strat, but this not fully true.

Washington, what part?

Bottom line. Don't do it. It's just a lazy way out. The connections in the back must be specified for a specific gage wire. The friction connections are not as reliable.

I think what people are getting at is that if you really want to friction fit the conductors, it's nicet to pigtail the neutral which hopefully will avoid "open neutrals" at a later point in time.

Pigtailing both neutral and hot is In my opinion, a better way to go.

Washington, what part?

This part:


The Neutral MUST be Pigtailed(Can't have a white plugged in hole, and another white in another hole, in same recepticle).
Check your code book. Hint: The OP did not mention a multi-circuit

Per UL, back--stab (not srew terminal receptacles with back-stabs) receptacles are not allowed to accept 12 gauge wire--which limits the ampacity serving that device.

Yet, what do I know
:D

Washington, your right, Op didn't say Multi circuit, I didn't want to explain "Multicircuit"and would prefer to err on the side of safety.
If you don't pigtail your neutrals and you feel fine with that method go for it.
Years ago I worked with an Inspector that felt backstabbing was as good as around the screw. I always wanted to have 2 recepticles in series, 1 backstabbed and 1 around screw and apply about 40 Amps and see which blows open. I never did, he passed on, I really believe the backstabbed would blow open. Beliving is different that proving out, so who knows?

Everyone here will tell you, backwiring sucks.