I'm looking to install 6 recessed lights and a total of 3 switches to control the lights. I believe I need two 3 way switches and one 4 way switch?
Should all light fixtures being controlled by the 3 switches be wired from the last switch in the connection?
For example, using the same three switch configuration from above, if I have 6 recesseed lights all being controlled by 3 light switches; two 3 way switches and one 4 way switch. The first and last switch in the configuration are the 3 way switches with the 4 way switch in the middle of the configuration. The 6 cans would be powered from switch #3, the last in the configuration?
OR can the lights be powered from any switch in the configuration.

I hope this makes sense and I'm hoping for a good answer - sparkie

Your current set-up will work, and is normal--assuming you are running a wire from the can light to the first 3-way switch

So, the first 3 way switch (the one receiving power from electric panel) needs to be directly connected to one of the cans?
The other 2 switches will not be directly connected to a can? I guess they just are connected to each other?

1 three way common gets the constant hot, the other three way goes to the lights hot(black wire). Between the 2 3 ways are the 2 "travellers". That is your 3 way setup.
A 4 way will swap the 2 travellers.
If you cut the 2 travellers, you can install the 4 way to the 4 wires(2 travellers interrupted.
You can use as many 4 ways in the middle as you want.

Stratmando, so the first 3 way gets the power from the electric panel and the 3rd 3 way sends the power to the light fixtures and the 4 way in the middle only controls the switches? Meaning, the 4 way switch has no direct power coming from the electric panel or power going directly to the light fixtures?

Stratmando, so the first 3 way gets the power from the electric panel and the 3rd 3 way sends the power to the light fixtures and the 4 way in the middle only controls the switches? meaning, the 4 way switch has no direct power coming from the electric panel or power going directly to the light fixtures?

Maybe this will help:
S3= 3 way switch
S4= 4way switch
Pw= Power

Yes the 4 way has 4 connections(wires), 2 go to 2 screws of one three way, and the other 2 wires go to other 3 way.
Only 1 3 way gets power to common screw, the other 3 way common screw goes to light.
Whites and grounds all get connected at all boxes(not to each other)
Where power comes in with 14-2 hook the power to common screw of first 3 way. Red and black of 14-3 go to other 2 screws, red and black from first 3 way, connects to same colored screws of 4 way, connect the other red and black to other 2 screws on 4 way.
Now at the last switch, red and black hook to 2 same screws on 3 way.
Then with lights run to last switch, hook light hot to common and the red and black to same 2 screws on this last 3 way, and the lights white to white.
You don't have enough wires for a constant hot for receptacle downline from last 3 way.
You could hook a receptacle downline, just tie on to the light wires, however it will be 3/4 way switched with light.
It is best to run lights to last 3 way. Good Luck.

Yes the 4 way has 4 connections(wires), 2 go to 2 screws of one three way, and the other 2 wires go to other 3 way.
Only 1 3 way gets power to common screw, the other 3 way common screw goes to light.
Whites and grounds all get connected at all boxes(not to each other)
Where power comes in with 14-2 hook the power to common screw of first 3 way. red and black of 14-3 go to other 2 screws, red and black from first 3 way, connects to same colored screws of 4 way, connect the other red and black to other 2 screws on 4 way.
Now at the last switch, red and black hook to 2 same screws on 3 way.
Then with lights run to last switch, hook light hot to common and the red and black to same 2 screws on this last 3 way, and the lights white to white.
You don't have enough wires for a constant hot for recepticle downline from last 3 way.
You could hook a recepticle downline, just tie on to the light wires, however it will be 3/4 way switched with light.
It is best to run lights to last 3 way. Good Luck.

I understand most of what you are explaining. However here are my questions:
Whites and grounds all get connected at all boxes(not to each other)... by this you mean white to white and ground to ground? But NOT white to ground. Correct?
And I'm not sure what this means... You don't have enough wires for a constant hot for recepticle downline from last 3 way.
You could hook a recepticle downline, just tie on to the light wires, however it will be 3/4 way switched with light.

Finally, will I use 14/2 to connect each of the 6cans? Or is 14/3 the preferred wire to connect the 6 cans to each other?

Wow!

Stratmando, so the first 3 way gets the power from the electric panel and the 3rd 3 way sends the power to the light fixtures and the 4 way in the middle only controls the switches? meaning, the 4 way switch has no direct power coming from the electric panel or power going directly to the light fixtures?

Where in your question did you ask how to wirenut wires (or make proper terminations)??

My picture explains your question.

Strat put in a few extras to help the process along. Yet, I do not see where this question was asked??

All whites together, then all grounds together, the grounds and neutrals needs to stay separate. The Neutral carries current, the ground normally does not.
With the 14-3 it is JUST enough to control lights but not enough to have a constant hot downline. Sorry, I must have been answering another question similar to yours but they wanted power to a receptacle after the last 3 way. For yours this is not an issue.
14-2 is perfect for the lights. If you used 14-3 you would have to cap off a wire.)

WOW! What do you mean WOW?

Exactly what I said!

Some of what I'm reading is off base, and that includes your responses, and questions. You may want to hire an electrical contractor to conclude your project--this way your home and persons will be safe. Just trying to help!

All whites together, then all grounds together, the ground an neutral needs to stay seperate. The Neutral carries current, the ground normally does not.
With the 14-3 it is JUST enough to control lights but not enough to have a constant hot downline. Sorry, I must have been answering another simular to yours but they wanted power to a recepticle after the last 3 way. For yours this is not an issue.
14-2 is perfect for the lights. if you used 14-3 you would have to cap off a wire.)

Thanks for all you help. It has been very good info. And out of curiousity, what is a downline?

Exactly what I said!

Some of what i'm reading is off base, and that includes your responses, and questions. You may want to hire an electrical contractor to conclude your project--this way your home and persons will be safe. Just trying to help!

Again, thanks for your concern... but I think I'll be just fine.

Downline, I was referring a receptacle after all your lights and switches if 1 was to be added at the end could be considered downline, or downstream.

Downline, I was refering a recepticle after all your lights and switches if 1 was to be added at the end could be considered downline, or downstream.
Okay. I got it. A downline connects a switch/lights to a outlet. Therefore the outlet feeds off the same power source as the lights/switches?

Yes and since you don't need a receptacle after the last switch, you won't need a constant hot to carry through boxes(which would be an extra wire)

Thanks for the poor mark Chris!

Just note that the picture I sent you is 100% correct, it's just you have no idea what I'm talking about. No fault on your part--seeing that you are in the learning stage!

Yet, as someone told me. DO NOT hand out bad marks, unless you "know" the facts. Your mark should be removed---do to your lack of knowledge of the trade.

Thanks for the poor mark Chris!

Just note that the picture I sent you is 100% correct, it's just you have no idea what I'm talking about. No fault on your part--seeing that you are in the learning stage!

Yet, as someone told me. DO NOT hand out bad marks, unless you "know" the facts. Your mark should be removed---do to your lack of knowledge of the trade.
If you notice from my first posting, I am well aware of how the lights and switches are configured. My question was a matter of ensuring I am using the correct wire and the correct switches in the correct spots. And yes, your picture is accurate; although you were "off base" with stating the lights are connected to the first 3 way switch. That is the reason for the poor marK!
Once again, I will say, thanks for your concern. Your comments will be filed in my "off base" folder! In closing... if I had hired someone like yourself to be my electrician and you came to my home with your smug attitude; I would have fired you in a moment!
This is a lesson for all home owners; if you feel the contractor you hired is "off base" you should let them go and find someone else.

if you notice from my first posting, i am well aware of how the lights and switches are configured. my question was a matter of ensuring i am using the correct wire and the correct switches in the correct spots. and yes, your picture is accurate; although you were "off base" with stating the lights are connected to the first 3 way switch. that is the reason for the poor marK!
once again, i will say, thanks for your concern. your comments will be filed in my "off base" folder! in closing...if i had hired someone like yourself to be my electrician and you came to my home with your smug attitude; i would have fired you in a moment!
this is a lesson for all home owners; if you feel the contractor you hired is "off base" you should let them go and find someone else.
Who said I was a contractor!

Actually, I'm one of the nice ones on this site, you should be happy Stan didn't get to you! LOL!! :D Thanks for the compliment, "it means I care".
;)

Who said I was a contractor!

Actually, I'm one of the nice ones on this site, you should be happy Stan didn't get to you! LOL!!!:D Thanks for the compliment, "it means I care".
;)
#1 who ever called you a contractor?
#2 stan who?
#3 what compliment?
#4 what means you care..

I'm wondering why you won't stop posting on my question... find another person to annoy.
Over and out chrisP

The below is the message wrote to me in private. It's from chrispcon.
Note: I'm not offended. It just goes to show you the appreciation we receive at times.



listen wingNUT; I never said you were a contractor. You need to read what is written and stop formulating what you "think" someone has implied.
What I actually wrote was that I'd fire someone like you in a moment because you think you know what your talking about. You are, what they call in the business, a HACK. People like you are the reason Mike Holmes is in business. He gets it right. You don't get it at all...
Find someone else to annoy!
I hope this makes things really clear for you.

Then Another message written to me in private, from Chris (again):


your blocked...
I win...
Hahahhahahahahahahhahahahahahhahahahahahahahahhah. . .
Tell stan I said what's up.

Then Another message written to me in private, from Chris (again):
Dude. I'm trying to block you... stop sending me stuff. Don't be mad... you gave bad advice. I called you on it. Truth be told; you were wrong. I stand by everything I've said. Get over yourself. Its time to move on. There are probably other do-it-yourselfers that you can give bad advice to. Leave this one alone.

Are oyu always this annoying?

As this thread has degenerated into a one sided slanging match it is now CLOSED.

Any further problems of this nature will be dealt with personally.