Hi folks!
I have an Honda Civic LS, from 2001 (220.000 km) and since last Summer, on hot days the engine stops while I'm driving both in hi rpm and speed, or in city slow traffic. Usually it won't stop if it goes on around 3.000 rpm at 100 km/h or in cold days.
The engine stops, the orange engine light turns on.
I have to deconnect the battery in order to make the light turn off and get the car keep going for a while, other wise if the light stays on, usually the engine stops again right away.

This car has an electric malfunction history:
a) panel lights going on and off like crazy
b) radio/cd malfunction like turning off the engine, taking off the ignition key, closing the car, and the radio still playing (!! ).
c) batteries short life
d) etc.

Now it's just the engine that goes off on hot days.

Does anyone have a clue about this kind of situation?
I've been reading "txgreasemonkey" answers about engine electric problems, and I wonder if a Ignition Control Module problem may be THE problem. Hot weather seems to be something that brings the problem up...

So, thank you very much for your support!
Best regards,
RFMC

P.S.
Since last summer no one in the city seems to find the problem or having any ideia about it.
Even in Spain, at Burgos Honda's station, they found a DTC code error 23, but they told me that it wasn't the problem it self. The thing is that I have to deconnect the battery every time the problem happens, so on doing that I erase de computer memory...

Thanks again!
RFMC

. Replace the main relay--drill several ventilation holes in the cover.

. Replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

. The problems below may be caused by a bad ignition switch:

This car has an electric malfunction history:
a) panel lights going on and off like crazy
b) radio/cd malfunction like turning off the engine, taking off the ignition key, closing the car, and the radio still playing (!! ).
c) batteries short life
d) etc.

Here's how to remove the switch and check it out:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-2.html#post224652

These steps should provide "like new" performance and reliability to your Civic. Keep me posted with the results.

If the problem persists, after performing the steps above, I would focus on DTC 23 (VSS). The Honda Speed Sensor's main purpose is to transmit speed data to the TCU, ECU, speedometer gauge, and cruise control unit. It is reading the frequency of a bobbin attached to an upper casing that speeds past the pickup sensor. Consider removing, cleaning and, if necessary, replacing the Variable Speed Sensor.

Hi, "txgreasemonkey"!
Thank you very much for your answer!
I will keep you posted with results!
Best regards,
RC

Hi "txgreasemonkey"!

I just spoke with a mechanic from KIA Motors who used to work at Honda's local dealer when I got my car. He didn't know what an Ignition Control Module is (in portuguese). I told him that it should be the equivalent to the ancient "distributer". Then regarding the ICM coil, he asked me if it was about the four coils attached to the four ignition "candles" placed on the top of the engine. But as far as I understood from your words, there's actually a coil inside the ICM (?). Does this coil also need a heat dissipation silicone somewhere?

Well, I asked him to do the job anyway. I will check it out.

Thanks very much for your support,
Best regards,

Your mechanic is correct. I missed that your Civic is a 2001 model. You have what's called a "Coil on Plug" setup, not just one coil inside a distributor. You also do not have an Ignition Control Module--it's likely integrated into the ECM (computer). I also do not believe your Civic has a Main Relay.

Therefore, the next time the Check Engine Light comes on, don't reset the ECM. Take a code reader and find out what code was thrown. That should send you in the right direction. I would also have the mechanic check out the ignition switch. Sorry for the confusion. Be sure your spark plugs are the same brand and plug no. that originally came in the car. If the plugs haven't been recently replaced, consider doing so.

On a OBD-I car, in the U.S. a Code 23 deals with the VSS. I don't know what a Code 23 is for OBD-II. It may be unique to Europe.

Hi "txgreasemonkey", no problem about the confusion.
I understand now that I have a big problem, as the car in this situation is not reliable. Last Thursday was the first Spring hot day. I went out for the weekend and the engine stopped five times along the 400 km I did, some of them in dangerous situations on the road. If I don't deconnect the batterie, it's more likely that it will stop right away.
Yesterday I came back, but I did the road during the night, with nice temperature, and the engine didn't stop.
So I still think hot weather is an issue here..

Ok! Thank you very much for your support!
All the best!

If I were in your situation, I would buy an inexpensive code reader or scan tool and read the code the next time the Check Engine Light comes on. Ask your mechanic if he thinks the Crankshaft Position Sensor could be bad. Most major electrical problems on cars with your technology involve coils, Crankshaft Position Sensor, or ECM (computer).

Also, look for the 7.5 amp BACKUP Fuse in the under-hood fuse box. If you remove it for 10 seconds, it should reset your computer. It's easier than removing the negative. Battery cable.

Hi again, thanks for your attention. I really appreciate.
I never heard about code readers, even less about inexpensive ones.
I wish I could have one of those. In a hot day I would just let the engine turned on for a while at my door, and wait a couple of minutes..
Here in Portugal, only Honda and very few multi-mark garages have computers to read my ECU. It's a pain. But I will check it out.

Thank you very much!
All the best,

Here's an inexpensive code reader:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=ACN&MfrPartNumber=CP9125&CategoryCode=3389)

I don't know if this one would work on European Hondas, but you get the idea. They just plug into the Data Link Connector, under the dash.

A Honda mechanic told me that you have a Main Relay in your 2001 Civic and that it is the likely source of your problem. Therefore, resolder/replace the main relay and drill several ventilation holes in the cover. It should be an easy fix.

This link may help:

MarkLamond.co.uk - PGM-Fi - Main Relay (http://www.marklamond.co.uk/tech-honda/pgm-fi/main-relay/main-relay.htm)

Hi! Many thanks again for your attention.
I will do the main relay, even though the symptoms described in the article are slightly different. But, of course, there's also a lot of things in common.
Thanks for not giving up on my problem. I will keep you posted with results.
All the best.

Hi txgreasemonkey!

We didn't find anything wrong with the main relay.
We didn't get into the VSS sensor yet, as the mechanic went out on vacations!

Regarding the DTC 23 issue, it means: "Intake air temp sensor error (low temp indicated)"
Can this error make the engine stop?

Thank you very much, again..
All the best,
RC

Did you actually replace the main relay? It might look okay but still have cold solder joints--all it would take would be one to cause problems. I don't think the Intake Air Temp Sensor would cause your problems.

Hi! Thanks for your post.
No, the mechanic didn't replace the main relay. I will ask him to do it next time, as the VSS will also be checked.
I will keep you posted.
Thanks, very much!
RC

Hi txgreasemonkey,
Finally I got the error code registered in the ECU:

"08-2 TDC SENSOR (1) NOISE"

The mechanic told me that usually this sensor should not cause the engine to stop, because even in case of sensor's failure, the ECU still knows the cylinder movement order. But if one stops the engine after the error, there the ECU looses the information and don't let the engine starts again.

- However, he told me, perhaps this Honda 2001 ECU needs permanent correct info from this sensor in order to let the engine go on.

- Another possibility: the problem is not on the sensor but in the external sensor's circuit, causing an electric /electronic problem detected by the ECU as a general engine failure.

So, as the mechanic has some doubts, he erased the ECU memory, and asked me to try to get another engine failure to see if the ECU shows exactly the same error code. In that case we will go for a sensor and sensor's circuit complete checkup.

Ok, thanks for your support and attention.
All the best,
RC

Apparently, you are encountering a very unusual situation, which I've never seen before. Thanks for keeping me posted. I am definitely interested in the solution.

Confirmed ECU error code:

"08-2 TDC SENSOR (1) NOISE"

As far as I understood, it's the crankshaft sensor (or the sensor's external circuit).
Next Monday a complete checkup will be done to the sensor, coils, cables and relays, associated with this circuit.

Did you ever find out what exactly was causing the problem?

Hi txgreasemonkey,
I see no solution for this case, as no one seems to find the problem. Here's the situation:
1- ECU gives the following error code: "08-2 TDC SENSOR (1) NOISE"
2- An independent mechanic says that Top Dead Center sensor's malfunction do not stop the engine. Perhaps this malfunction is causing another malfunction somewhere or vice-versa, and that's the other one causing the trouble. He gives no guaranties for any replacement.
3- Honda's authorized service says nothing, and demand several days to checkup the car without guaranties.
4- Another independent mechanic says that "yes", TDC sensor's malfunction could make the engine to stop, and it usually does as time passes regarding the engine's temperature.

So... I will not spend money without guaranties.
As this problem is very dangerous, I will change my car.

Thanks for your support!
All the best!
RC

PS. I also have an HP iPAQ pocket computer with a strange electronic problem. It went for technical support service four times and allways came back with the same problem. Finally HP will replace this equipment for a new and different one, but I wonder if I have some strange electronic influence over this kind of objects..
I wish I could buy a mechanic car, like my family 1960's VW, that was there for 25 years or more without any kind of problems..

No, it's nothing with you--life is just getting very complicated. Electronic problems can be extremely frustrating and difficult to diagnose/solve. Most of us are encountering similar problems today.

I would definitely be inclined to replace the TDC Sensor, in addition to the main relay we talked about earlier. On Hondas with distributors, TDC Sensor failure will require replacing the distributor housing for the engine to run properly. It should be no different here. I would try buying the parts yourself and installing them. Keep me posted and don't give up!

What is the solution