I have a one piece fiberglass shower stall in the master bath. The fixtures are about 20 years old.

The celling in the finished basement developed a bubble - so - I cut several feet of wet drywall out to track down the leak.

I have one hot and cold pipe running into a sink fixture that appears from below to also feed the shower (probably runs between the wall then splits - one side sink one side shower)

When I tun on the sink - no drips. When I turn on the shower (cold side) I get a good drip even after just a few seconds.

So - my question - if I replace just the cold side valve could that be the problem - or does this sound like a solder point leak? If solder point - I suppose you'll tell me it's easier to replace the drywall in the bathroom side rather than mess with the shower fixture (not what I really want to do.)

So - here's to hoping a valve is my problem.

Thanks.

Hi Read...

First place is to pull the chrome plate away from the shower arm and inspect that joint (while shower running).

Second, as you suggested, pull back trim around the cold side valve/handle and inspect that while shower runs... sometimes can just be a packing nut that needs to be tightened (see pic. #1.. packing nut is first nut you see).

Third, shut down water, remove stem assembly and see if they have a replacement stem.

Hopefully these things work... if not, well... may need to replace the entire valve. IF YOU DO..you can remove an old 2 or 3 handle faucet and install a new single handle pressure balanced anti-scald shower valve WITHOUT having to go through the back wall of shower.

Symmons makes an oblong remodeler cover plate that is about 13 inches wide x 8 inches tall at center point to cover holes AND mount their valve in place (see pic.#2)

You would need to remove stems from old valve and then trace the cover plate onto shower wall and then cut about 3/4" inside your pencil mark to remove enough wall to get in with hands and do the work.

You would need a mini-tubing cutter to cut out pipes behind wall, copper male adapters, copper couplings, copper elbows and maybe a slip coupling as well. Then the basics, torch, solder (lead free), sandcloth, pipe dope or teflon tape... and last note here is that you would need to PRESOLDER any male adapters, the teflon tape them (6-8 wraps) and install.

Hope this helped, get back to me with any more questions.

If this did, please click on RATE THIS ANSWER. Thank you


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So - my question - if I replace just the cold side valve could that be the problem - or does this sound like a solder point leak? If solder point - I suppose you'll tell me it's easier to replace the drywall in the bathroom side rather than mess with the shower fixture (not what I really want to do.)When I turn on the shower (cold side) I get a good drip even after just a few seconds. So - here's to hoping a valve is my problem.
Since the leak doesn't start until you run the cold side of the shower I would guess the leak's coming from the bonnet packing nut in the shower valve,(see image) If, when you remove the knob and chrome cover you can see water coming out around the stem when you turn on the cold water then snug up the bonnet packing nut,(the top nut) until the leak stops. Do not over tighten, stop when the leak stops. Good luck, Tom

Okay - I pulled the ring around the shower head, and turned on the water - no leak up there.

I pulled the cold handle off - but can't seem to get the sleeve to come off so I can see inside the wall - I've taken a picture for reference (and also ID - can you tell me if this is Kohler or Moen? Those seem to be the two types they installed when built)

Thanks for the 411 - here's the pictures.

Hey Read... first, tell me is it leaking from the packing nut I see in the picture..

While there appeared to be a little moisture around the stem, it's not visibly leaking when I turn it on.

And forget the symmons remodelers cover... will not work in your case. And didyou say this is a shower valve only... They don't usually have three handles. YOU also need to check the volume control handle in the middle... just to be sure.

AND the sleeve... sorry, but that just spins off.. so grab on with a plier and see if can spin it off (counterclockwise).

If not leaking from the packing nut or somewhere else you see in shower... then you are headed out behind the wall to open up and see what is going on.

No - not sure why there's three handles - this is a shower only - no spiggot for a bath tub. I'll pull all three handles and sleeves. Probably take me a little bit to do that - and I'll re-post when I can see what I see... luckily there is a big mirror in the bathroom behind that shower wall - so while my wife isn't happy with the idea of pulling more drywall, she's glad it can at least be concealed.

Thanks again - post in a while.

Sorry - what about a manufacuter name? Do you recognize the handles?

I do not believe it is a moen... that leaves a kohler.. I think. But when you repost may have better idea. Good luck.

While there appeared to be a little moisture around the stem, it's not visably leaking when I turn it on.
The fact that it only leaks when you use the cold water tells me that perhaps the leak is at the point where the stem and washer assembly threads into the valve body. (See my image) I still think this can be fixed without tearing up the wall behind it. Do as Massplumber says and unscrew the chrome tube. Check back in there for moisture where the assembly screws in. Get back to us with the results. Mass raises a good question. What's the function of the middle knob. Since you say that you have a shower enclosure this has us confused.Good luck, tom

Okay - loaded one more picture - when I pulled all three and the sleeves - I can (and in the picture you can as well) see that the main tube that runs from the volume control to the shower head appears to be leaking at the thread union. I couldn't find any water above the threads - however - they tube is soldered to the threads and I don't think I can just tighten it without twisting the tubing -

Now where too?

At this point - I'd also like to say - it leaks with hot or cold... not just cold. In my angst I forgot I only ever tested the cold, and the cold supply line below is the one that everything drips from into the basement.

As for that middle handle - it's really never had a use - I think they only did that because this is the handle set they wanted to use in 1989 when the house was build. It matches all the fixtures in the master bath.

Checked one more thing - I turned on the hot water with the volume control off to see if the leak was there. No leak. Turned on the volume control, and the water started to leak from way up the tube to the shower head - so it appears the leak is high - at the shower head. Is there a way to tighten the pipe there without turning the unit that comes out for the head?

Thanks all for the help - looks like the valves are good still.

LEAK FOUND!! I pulled the ring again on the shower head (I know - dang newb) and turned on the water - put a small flashlight up there and saw the leak.

So - I went to remove the shower head assembly to clean the threads and reseal - and it just broke off in my hands.

Now my question goes from where - to how... do I get the remaining threads in the tube out? I'm going to try needlenose pliers, and see how far that will get me - aside from that is there some speacial home depot / Lowe's tool I can buy to chase these once I'm done? I have a tap and die, but nothing that big.

Time to get out the hammer and small (1/4") wood chisel (one that you don't care about, not the one you do your wood carving with). Try to cut remaining pipe without damaging the fitting threads. Use corner of the chisel. Might also try an awl. Once you get the point in between the pipe and the fitting the pipe should start collapse in towards the center. Shouldn't be to bad. If the pipe was corroded enough to break, the remaining part should be pretty weak. After you have picked out all you can, screw in a 1/2" black pipe nipple to clean out threads.

Ahhh... my first guess was right... ;) It is almost always that darn shower arm.


Now, take an awl or similar small tool and with small hammer (do not drop this now) tap at the threads in the elbow... tap upwards.

You may also need to use a hacksaw blade only... and score away at the thread a bit... cut from back toward front.. then pry at it using the awl... or tiny flat screwdriver. This takes a little time... (JUST DID THIS YESTERDAY) but you will get it. Let us know how this goes for you.

Took a few hours. I'd still really appreciate it if anyone can ID the manufacturer. I can't find a stamp or anything on it. I'm leaning now toward Price Fisher - found another box in the garage - but no picture so I can't tell which fixture it goes to - 4 1/2 baths in this house!!

It's all buttoned up - put the new arm in with teflon tape instead of putty. Had to put one full extra turn on the pipe after hand to get the drip to stop - but it appears that it's all done now.

Here's a finished picture for fun - oh, and now I've got the handles so they match in on/off position.

Thanks to everyone who posted! I'll rate the answers in a bit.

Congratulations Readstr, now you are a journeyman plumber. You should be able to fully fund you IRA in the next few months. Should have given you the tip, to tighten the shower arm,stick a long Phillips screwdriver up the arm to the bend, this gives you extra leverage to tighten without scaring the finish.

That would have helped - however, I wrapped the pipe with Teflon tape only ended up using a pipe wrench on the last 1/3 turn - which left some teeth marks but not too bad... the "beauty ring" covers it well.