My whirlpool washing machine goes out of balance every time it goes into the spin cycle.
It's a mdl. LSR 5232LQ1
Any ideas

Two ideas - I'm not familiar with your model, but in principle, they all work the same... so:

1. out-of-balance switch misaligned.
2. Tub rests on a carriage that is usually sprung on 3 axes. Perhaps one of the springs is sprung, broken, or came loose? Would make an out-of-balance condition more likely.

HI,
The answer before mine is very good.
I am sure you have already checked to see that your clothes are "proportioned" evenly around in the washer before spinning.
Also, If you have a carpenter's level, check across the top of the washing machine to see if it is level. You might have to adjust the "leveling" screws on the bottom "feet" of the machine.

Really, as long as the washer is visibly level and sitting on solid surface (concrete), level won't matter. This washer has no out-of-balance mechanism, because it doesn't need one. Unlike most washers, this one doesn't spin and drain at the same time. It has what is referred to as a "neutral drain" transmission. What that means is, when it is time to drain, the transmission doesn't spin. It stays in neutral for 2-4 minutes; long enough to drain all the excess water. Then the timer stops the motor for a few seconds, and then restarts and that's when it spins. If you run a full cycle, with at least 10 minutes of agitate time, listen at the beginning of the final spin (don't interrupt it by lifting the lid). After the agitate time has expired in rinse, it should stop, then restart and begin the drain period. If the tub is actually spinning, this indicates a problem with the transmission. It is a fairly common failure, but thankfully it's an easy transmission to replace. This function should be tested anytime the unit is serviced for any reason. These transmissions are warranted for 5 years for the part itself, with the owner paying all labor and transportation costs. If it immediately starts to spin the tub, stop it and reset it for another 10 minutes of agitate time. Sometimes if the transmission is cold, it may not work the first time, but will on subsequent cycles. The short version is that if it was loaded evenly, it should stay even through the entire cycle, provided the correct water level was selected. There are a few other posssibilities, should you want to check them. You can set it for a fast spin with nothing in it, wait for it to get to full speed, and then stop it. Just as the tub comes to a stop, you should hear water sloshing. This indicates the liquid filled balance ring has not lost its charge. If you don't hear it (try a few times), the balance ring has probably lost its charge which will cause it to shake severely regardless of the load. There are 3 horizontal springs and one vertical one in the back (most viewable from under the machine). I've rarely seen trouble with the 3, but I have seen the one vertical spring rust and break off. It would be laying under the unit or hanging loose if this is the case. Another possibility is the slide plate under the tub has 3 tan colored kidney-shaped slide pads that may be worn. If you're unfamiliar with what I am talking about, you probably shouldn't try to inspect them. They are fairly buried under the outer tub, and kind of hard to access. Hope this helps. Oops... I forgot. You can also try to reset the rear leveling legs. They are self-adjusting, so all you have to do is tip the machine toward you, up about 6-8 inches, and lower it back down. You should be able to hear the spring loaded mechanism moving as you raise and lower it. If it's stuck, use a large flat blade screwdriver and pry the highest leg down to release it. Reset the rear legs again and see if that helps.

I've got a nearly new Whirlpool washing machine (about 6 months old) that has had the spin balance problem from brand new. It only shows-up about once in every 20 loads. But it shakes very violently and the machine bounces around and moves across the floor until it runs into something like the wall. Never happened with the prior machine - a Maytag. I thought it was just a poorly designed spin cycle and that the machine weighs too little (The prior Maytag weighed about 50% more). Should I be asking for Warranty service?

Something to try.
If the drain hose is sealed to the washer stand pipe, that is if the hose is taped to the pipe or the pipe has a plug that tightly holds the hose in the pipe, unseal the connection so that some air can get in the pipe. Or just put the hose in a sink if one is nearby.

I know that this does not sound logical, but try it and see.