I am adding a 2nd bathroom to my ranch. The main drain is in the front middle of the house and is 4" cast iron (venting straight up through roof) and is directly under the only current bathroom. the new bath will be 16 feet down and 24 feet back or about along foundation lines or 20 feet away diagonally. there is a 2 inch cast iron drain that runs about halfway connecting only a sink in the Kitchen which has a second vent "2" running through the roof. Can I change that drain to 3 inch and then tie in my second bath to that drain and vent all the new fixtures up through the attic and then run horizontally to connect to kitchen vent with a t. by the way I am an accountant, handy but no pro. Never realized running water supply lines would be easier than drains. Venting is quite complicated. Thanks

Hey Casey:

YUP.. sure can change that 2" to 3" drain... and then run all vents up to attic and tie into 2" kitchen vent just before exit the roof via a TY fitting (called a sanitary tee also...see pic)....The TY should be installed upside down. BUT if you don't know that then you better get back in touch with us so we can explain basics of venting. Let me know.

Also know that you should install a dandy cleanout (see pic #2....also called a test tee fitting) just before the new 3" pipe connects into the 4" pipe... and also include cleanouts for any major changes of direction... but we can discuss later, as you go along.

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Thanks, should be a lot easier, at least once I get it tied into the cast iron monstrosity that leaves the house. In order to change that I'd have to remove what I guess is a 4 inch sanitary trap that accepts a 2 inch line. It's sandwiched between the bottom of the drain and 4 inch sanitary trap that drains the toilet. A better way may be through the end trap, which gas a 4 inch copper threaded cap on it. Can I just add another trap to the end and drain through that rather than try and loosen all the lead joints. How would I loosen the lead, can I heat it. Thanks

Hey Casey... Is it possible for you to get us a picture? If so, then just use the "go advanced" button when you post next time and we can really tell you best approach.

I am confused by how you describe things... because, for example, no sanitary trap can drain a toilet... toilets have integral traps... ;) .

I am wondering if you are telling me that you have a 4" house trap that has been tapped into somehow.. or if they tied into what should be a cleanout in the house trap... Further, I think you just suggested tying into the other cleanout... :p I am afraid that is also frowned upon :p! Are these pipes connecting to anything that looks even close to my attachment (picture) below? Anyway, a pic.on your end would really help.

To be clear, too... if you are not familiar on how to get pic. Loaded just have a couple pictures and your scanner ready and let us know... Seems we have some experts on that particular topic 'round here somewhere.. ;) (may even be able to download off a cellphone camera... but I am not sure about that..? ).

Get back to me... if you simply cannot upload a picture then we will do our best to walk you through anyway!

Not the best pictures, taken at night with a cell phone. Just moved in here, so lights are not everywhere. At any rate I think you are right, I might have been suggesting using the cleanout, however I would just add onother to the one that is there to replace it using the copper threaded fitting. Depending on how good you can see the pictures, you will see the cleanout at the bottom, which attaches to the main drain running out of the house and branches straingth up serving as drain and main vent. After cleanoiut you have a streetbend, then a straight connector, then a sanitary t(or wye, not sure what you call it), that's the spot where the 2" drain enters that i would replace with a 3". Just above that is another sanuitary t(or wye) that accepts copper 1.5 inch tub drain, above that another which accepts 1 4 inch feed from the toilet, which is an elbow then a 2 foot run to the enter the drain. After that ut goes straight up through the roof. Ideally I would like all this piping pvc so I can work with it. I know I can assemble this, what I am not sure of is getting the old one all apart without doing damage to the main drain out of the house, that's why it seemed easier to justy remoce the plug and thread another pvc cleanout into it. Once I had it all hooked up, I'd just remove the old part from the top down. Maybe I should just hire someone. Too cold here in mass to play with roof openings yet. Thanks
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Hey Kasey... From Mass. Huh? What part?

Legally speaking now (code requirements), you cannot connect into the threaded cleanout... even if you planned to put a new cleanout at the end.\

Are you planning to replace all the cast iron... or do as little work as possible to get that bathroom in?

Get back to me

Kind of split on that issue, I am not pulling permits, if it functions as well, then why not, I may go with an aav temporarily and vent through roof later. Just bought the place and need a new bath so I can gut the old one. Wouldn't mind replacing everything to the bottom with pvc, just afrain when I smash up the old couplings I'll damage the main to the street, and I need to get a 3 inch drain into there somewhere. Thanks.

I'm in the merrimack valley

What are your thoughts on aav's massplum2008. Legal in nh not mass. Do they work Also, if I did attach an additional cleanout, temporarilly until I could get to the rest will it function properly or should I just replace no. once I'm done with the new bath, I will be gutting the old, so I could do it all at once. Thanks

Hi Kasey:

As far as aavs.. I am not a big fan... but that is probably because I never use them... so take that for what it is worth. I know some plumbers that swear by them... and why not... they are approved for use in many places all over the country... so cannot be too bad.

In your case, if you pipe and vent everything properly and only use aavs temporarily... I say, why not... go for it.. as long as temporary... cause in MASS. When you sell that home... better be vented right or inspectors will get you on it. Also note that any aav you do use needs to be accessible ALWAYS!

Now, again, I say, if temporary, then tie into the end cleanout of the main line... WILL NOT EFFECT DRAINAGE IN ANY WAY... just be sure to install a new cleanout in case you need it.

Further, when you do decide to tackle the cast iron work you want to take a sawzall with a 8-10 teeth/inch bi-metal blade and cut the cast iron pipe 5 inches above the 1/8th bend hub coming out of the 4" wye with the end cleanout you showed us in picture. Make that cut first..then begin removing cast iron pipe UP from there...NO DAMAGE or concerns about main line after that. Then just clamp onto the 4" cut end with a husky 4 band NO-HUB clamp to 4"PVC pipe and away you go...

Let me know how you are doing.

Thanks, I'll let you know when I get there, will start the plumbing from the other end this weekend hopefully, then electric, probably a few weeks before I get there, your knowledge and advice are much appreciated.