How do I drill a 3/4" hole in a stainless steel kitchen sick?

With a 3/4" metal cuting hole saw. Be sure to dimple or center punch the center so the saw doesn't walk.

In order from best to least best:

Punch such as this one: GREENLEE 730BB-3/4 3/4" Hole-Size Standard Round Knockout Punch Unit - Toolup.com (http://www.toolup.com/Greenlee/730BB-3_4.html)
A Unibit (requires step drilling)
A hole saw

Dimple for sure. A small bit to start the hole, like 1/16 to 1/8. Cobalt bits recommended.
Keep the bit cool. Stainless is best drilled with a fair amount of force. If you don't keep it cool, it will work harden and become impossible to drill. That first pilot hole will be critical.
A variable speed drill will help when creating the first pilot hole.

A drill bit in sheet metal drills a triangular shaped hole. I have not seen a brad point bit in 3/4 inch. I've ground the tips of 5/8 bits for cutting round holes in polycarbonate.

I'd suggest practice drilling in some scrap steel at the local hardware store. The walking can be a big problem. Clamp securely.

:mad:DAM! I searched all over and No one have picture of it?

Some say " It's hard to Drill Stainless Steels, It's Tough to Drill Stainless Steels " LIES, LIES, LIES!!

I got MAD, so Here is how I did it. I took before and
After pix so you all can see . I also included what type of tools I used to do it, wear Eye Protection, it was DAM so EASY!

1. I punched a hole in where I needed, I use NAILS, then a small bit to drill break the Hole. Use Xtra WD-40 for this one.

2. Once I got the small Hole, I used BOSCH TITANIUM Drill Bits, 5/64", 7/64", 7/32", 5/16", 1/2" with the help of WD-40 to Drill stepping up the Hole bigger and bigger to 1/2".

3. Since I needed the Hole to be 1-1/18". I trace it with a marker, I use a Round File and FILE the heck out of it until I got the Hole big enough to fit my New Soap Dispenser.

4. After about 1/2 an hour of Filing the Dam Hole with rest, cause I don't want to hurt my muscles the next day, LOL. I use the small file to smooth it out, DONE!!

5. To Clean-Up, I use a WET Paper Towel and Wrapped a Magnet around it so the Magnet will pick up all the Metals, even smallest pieces.

6. I can't seem to get help at all from searching all over the net to do this. I pretended that I was living in the Stone Age and use what I got just like the ancient Egyptians, LMFAO... Another thing, I also pretended that I was in Jail breaking out, it really helped Filing the Dam Hole Faster... hehehehehe

Hope that will help someone. Use this and make the Hole as big as you want!:D:p
JodBronson

TOOLS:

http://www.rgsmart.com/DSCF0009.JPG

BEFORE:

http://www.rgsmart.com/DSCF0001.JPG

AFTER:

http://www.rgsmart.com/DSCF0002.JPG

Hey Jod,
Happy you got fixed up. We don't drill out holes in stainless steel sinks. KISS nailed it with his explanation. We drill a guide hole and use a hole punch,(see image). Just in case you ever have to do it again. Regards, Tom

Hey Jod,
Happy you got fixed up. We don't drill out holes in stainless steel sinks. KISS nailed it with his explanation. We drill a guide hole and use a hole punch,(see image). Just in case you ever have to do it again. Regards, Tom

Hi,

Is this Tool CHEAP?

I would buy it, but I don't know if I ever use it again. Since U can only drill so many holes in your sink, LMFAO!!

I did it for CHEAP, use what I got, LOL.

Thankx speedball1 for the tip ;)

Jod

No:

http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/catalog@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?SEARCH_KEYWORD=GREENLEE

No:

http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/catalog@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?SEARCH_KEYWORD=GREENLEE

Hi,

Dang thing is EXPENSIVE!!

I use what I got and COST = $0.00

If I was a Pro Plumber I would buy it, but I'm NOT

I don't drill HOLES in my sink everyday, why bother buy something I will only use it one?

My Medthod just as good and BEST of all, COST = $0.00

LMFAO

Jod

Ya just can't beat cheap Jod. Before I kicked out 74 bucks to make one hole I'd gnaw that sucker out with my teeth. My company furnished them. I had no idea they were so pricey. Good luck, Tom

How does the thing work?

Hi Jlisenbe:

To use this tool you will drill a hole that is large enough to accommodate the DRAW STUD. You slip the draw stud with the bushing/die and ball bearing nut on the top of the sink (in this case). Then you spin the punch section onto the draw stud from under the sink and spin it up tight to the bottom of the sink. Then you go up top and use a ratchet tool and socket of the correct size to tighten the ball bearing nut. This tightening draws the punch up into the metal and makes a perfect hole by literally PUNCHING OUT a circle.

This is great on metal studs or other thin metals, but can cause an indent in thicker metals (such as thick gauge sink metal) that can be an issue if you aren't careful. I have used both hole saws and punches to make additional holes in sinks. The hole saws were messy and noisy and if you slip.. you own the sink... *OUCH... but overall this made a really nice hole. The punch was also a bit noisy/messy as I had to drill a couple holes to get the proper hole size for the draw stud, and it created a bit of a dent at the sides of the hole, but again, made a nice hole in the end. I would recommend ewither way.

Hope that all made sense...

MARK

PS: Jod...you are a patient man....nice job!!


.

Those, you typically start with a pilot hole. For that size probably 3/8". You take out the screw and your left with a punch and a die. You put one side on the top and another on the bottom.

You then crank the screw until the punch punches through. You end up with a bent washer that can be a pain to get off for thicker metal.

For those that use them often, there is a hydraulic actuator that can be used.


These are cool too for enlarging holes in sheet metal. They come out centered and would have been a more approprite tool:

Klein Unibit Step Drill Bits, Klein 59001, Klein 59002 (http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/59001.html)

I here these work like a champ too, but not for enlarging holes. IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. - TKO™ Carbide Tipped Hole Cutters (http://www.idealindustries.com/products/tools_totes/saws_drill_bits/tko.jsp)

I IDEAL 36-303 TKO Carbide Tipped Hole Cutter 1-1/8" - Toolup.com (http://www.toolup.com/ideal/36-303.html)

I can see how they would work better than the punch.

The punch is actually a bad way of making a hole in sheet metal slightly bigger.

At least you get a round hole.

The punch method wouldn't work too well to enlarge a hole for 1" to 1-1/8". The Step drill exells at that.

The carbide cutter, you would need a way of centering it.

Mp:
Never used the fancy (with ball drive) Greenlee punches, nor with hydraulics.

Sorry guys... but the Hole Punch tool is not something I would recommend. It bends the stainless steel the way that it will be visible from distance.

Based on advice from stainless steel manufacturer's engineer, the only safe way to cut Stainless Steel is:

1. Drill Pilot Hole
2. Use Starrett Hole Saw bit to dril the hole
3. Drill Speed should NOT exceed 800 RPMs

Important: even with the Pilot Hole drilled - make sure you make a template from 3/8 ply, clamp it in place and then drill through the template. Don't use any lubricant on it.

Hey Milo...

If you see my second paragraph you will see that I am in agreement with you, although, with care, I have pulled it off in the past!

The thicker the metal, the worse the dent, for sure!

Thanks.

I'm also I agreement. The carbide cutter is a relatively new product and from what I here electricians like t.

To enlarge, the step has everything beat. Self-centering, round hole and automatic deburring and won't pull through.

Remember too, that the brad point bit or pilot bit drills are much better than regular drills for sheet metal. They drill a round hole and won't pull through. Without a variable speed torge limiting drill you'll end up with a nice big dent from the drill chuck slamming into the sink. They are great for the pilot hole.

Cobolt steel is even better for hard metals. Cobalt Steel Drill Bits are designed for hard metals., DeWalt Industrial Tool Co. (http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/511775)

DeWalt Drill Bits and Sets, Pilot / Split Point Drill Bits (http://www.mytoolstore.com/dewalt/dew02-09.html)

PS: I've machined lots of stuff using lathes, mills and drill presses.

At such low speeds and so little material removal lubercation shouldn't be necessary.

Sorry guys...but the Hole Punch tool is not something I would recommend. It bends the stainless steel the way that it will be visible from distance.

Based on advice from stainless steel manufacturer's engineer, the only safe way to cut Stainless Steel is:

1. Drill Pilot Hole
2. Use Starrett Hole Saw bit to dril the hole
3. Drill Speed should NOT exceed 800 RPMs

Important: even with the Pilot Hole drilled - make sure you make a template from 3/8 ply, clamp it in place and then drill through the template. Don't use any lubricant on it.

How do you monitor RPMs on a cordless drill? (18v Ridgid in my case)

How does the thing work?
Simple! You take a center punch and "dimple" the center of the hole you wish to make.
You then drill a hole a little larger then the bolt on the hole punch. Place one section under the sink and the other on top and tighten the bolt until it punches through. We use them to allow a three hole sink to install a sprayer or a sink with a sprayer to install a ivsta-hot or a soap dispenser. Regarding Milos warning about using hole punches, my company has been usingthen for nyears with no complaints about "dimpling the stainless steel the way that it will be visible from distance. "
As against "close up"? Any dimpling is covered by the escutcheon. Go figure! Like I said. Years of use with no complaints. Regards, Tom

KISS: sorry to disagree. The step bit is in my opinion the worst tool to use to drill a hole in fine, s.s. sink. Tried it several times. It is way too rough for this type of work.

How do you monitor RPMs on a cordless drill? (18v Ridgid in my case)

You have to have drill that has variable speed option. Some drills show RPMs on adjustment wheel. I am not sure about Ridgid, but Hitachi does so. If you don't have this adjustment wheel, than run drill at slow speed pressing the switch gently. Try to maintain same speed. The slower the better... If your drill bit, or stainless steel, starts turning black, stop, you are going way to fast... Also: NO sparks !

Milo,
Thanks for the reply. It has the variable speed option, but no RPM markings on the wheel. Just #s ranging from 1-22. It's also a 2 speed & looking at the spec sheet, RPMs range from 0-400/0-1400. So between that & what you said about the stainless turning black, I'd feel comfortable doing it.
Just one other? Is the Starrett Hole bit you mentioned strickly for metal?

Hemlock50: from my experience, the slower the better. The hole saw bit cuts better through stainless steel at slow speed. Use the 400 RPM setting.

Will do. Do you know if Lowe's or Home Depot carries that Starrett Hole bit? Thanks again.

No they don't. Google it. We had to buy it On-Line, on eBay.

OK, thank you.

Lowe's should have the Lennox version. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&N=4294961544&Ne=4294967294&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=hole+saw+1-1%2F8

I've gotten other sizes before. Looks like you may have to buy the arbor separately.

The local hardware store has the bits with the non-replaceable arbors.

For the larger sized hole saw there is an easier to use arbor with two points, so the saw bits come off easier.

Looks like Starret has a carbide version too. http://www.starrett.com/pages/1232_new_hole_saws.cfm

Local electrical supply houses should stock hole saws.

KISS: those are High Speed Hole Saw bits. We need Low Speed on for drilling Stainless Steel. I had no success with Ridgid, Milwaukee and Lennox bits purchased in Lowe's and/or Home Depot. They get dull in few seconds. Starrett is made for cutting at Low Speeds.

Have you tried the carbide teeth ones yet such as Ideal Industries or Starrett?

I just checked a few Lennox bits that were purchased at Lowe's. The teeth pitch seems way too course for sheet metal.

Hi Jlisenbe:

To use this tool you will drill a hole that is large enough to acommodate the DRAW STUD. You slip the draw stud with the bushing/die and ball bearing nut on the top of the sink (in this case). Then you spin the punch section onto the draw stud from under the sink and spin it up tight to the bottom of the sink. Then you go up top and use a ratchet tool and socket of the correct size to tighten the ball bearing nut. This tightening draws the punch up into the metal and makes a perfect hole by literally PUNCHING OUT a circle.

This is great on metal studs or other thin metals, but can cause an indent in thicker metals (such as thick guage sink metal) that can be an issue if you aren't careful. I have used both hole saws and punches to make additional holes in sinks. The hole saws were messy and noisy and if you slip..you own the sink...*OUCH...but overall this made a really nice hole. The punch was also a bit noisy/messy as I had to drill a couple holes to get the proper hole size for the draw stud, and it created a bit of a dent at the sides of the hole, but again, made a nice hole in the end. I would recommend ewither way.

Hope that all made sense...

MARK

PS: Jod...you are a patient man....nice job!!


.


THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU MARK!!

Jod

Your'e welcome!

I could see all the work you put into that hole!


Have a great day!