We were changing the shower head and the 3-4 inch pipe attached to the shower head broke off and parts of it corroded into the 3 -4 inch pipe in the wall that . I don't want to damage the threads to get the very thin lining of the other pipe in so we can screw a new shower head in. It had not been changed in 15 years and I guess the water corroded the pipe, so that the copper pipe that is in the wall has a little bit of the shower head pipe in it? Is there an easier way to get the metal out so we don't have to cut off the top of the pipe in the wall and sodder it? Thank you for any help !:) Marjorie

Hey red... tell me is this 3-4 inch pipe chrome colored... threaded into the shower head and broke off outside wall.. or just behind wall. Is this pipe angled... or straight? Please answer all questions and we will see what we can come up with.

The copper pipe is angled that is just behind the wall . This copper pipe has some residue from the shower head in it that broke off so we can't screw the new shower head into it until we scrape off this other metal

OK... work with me now. Is there a chrome plating over this pipe or is it a copper pipe? SOrry, but you describe the opposite of most questions related to this type problem... ;) Of course.. right.

OK.. I just got a thought. Bear with me. A male thread has.. well.. threads.. (laugh).. a female fitting has threads that accept the male fitting. Do you have a male thread from the old shower head going into a female threaded fitting?

Sorry if not making myself clear. The pipe just behind the wall is copper and curved , but the shower head pipes that broke off were chrome and parts of the chrome pipe that broke off are nestled on the sides of this copper pipe that is just behind the wall. Does that make any sense?

Hold on... BRB

Yes

Yes to your question about the two threads

Redanmer... do any of your parts look anything like these pics.. Brass elbow is behind wall.. can you see it? The shower arm is obvious... let me know.

Yes the one on the left... the brass elbow is what isjust behind the wall and the shower arm is the one that broke off but parts of it are in the brass elbow

The shower arm is not there except for pieces of it left in the brass elbow

Yes I can see the brass elbow... picture was great idea thanks

OK... got you. Here you want to get a small.. very fine flathead screwdriver and with hammer (please... do not drop hammer!! ).. tap at the threads in the brass elbow.. see if can loosen this way.. but be gentle.. you can pry at this... but cannot damage threads in brass elbow ( new shower arm will not be able to thread in).

Other then that.. if piece is long enough (sticks out at least 1/2" past brass elbow) you could try to use an EASY-OUT TOOL..sold at most home supply stores...you would need a 1/2" easy out tool. Here you set the tool inside the threaded pipe that is stuck and with wrench try to unscrew.

Next step is to pull out sawzall with a very fine sawzall blade.. cut into pipe threads... and do that without damaging brass elbow threads. This requires that small screwdriver again.. and careful skill.

Next step is to open the wall and solder on a new brass elbow. I hope this makes sense.

If my answer helped, please RATE THIS ANSWER by clicking on button at above right ( I think). Thank you. And do not hesitate to ask more questions.

MASS is taking you down the right road. The average homeowner isn't going to have the right tools to remove the broken chrome pipe from the drop ear 90 elbow but we'll see.

Thank you, I tried the screwdriver and the other seems so imbedded in the copper arm. It doesn't stick out at all from the copper arm . It seems molded in there so tight almost like it is part of the copper arm but it is not because we can't get the new shower arm in there. So I was trying the little saw blade to try to cut the pipe threads

When you say opening the wall ans dolder on a new brass elbow what do you mean?

Sorry... I meant that if all else fails... it is time to open the wall and solder a new brass elbow on.

Here, you would open a rectangle hole in the wall at the shower head or behind the shower head in a closet or similar... do this between studs.. by about 4 inches below brass elbow and 1 inch above brass elbow. Then solder a 1/2"copper coupling to a 1/2"copper x 1/2" female drop ear elbow fitting (sold anywhere they sell plumbing fittings) between a piece of 1/2" copper pipe (type L.. would buy a small piece at a home supply store) to same height as old one. Then , patch wall, and then install new shower arm and shower head.

Got to ask though.. as did ballenegerb1... do you have tools/experience for this stuff.. you know soldering in walls.. Do you own a torch? Do you own a fire extinguisher?? Let us know.. huh. You may need to hire a plumber on this one ( I always say to call your local plumbing inspector and get a name from him... that he cannot give.. ;)... just ask.. he will have a name! ). Keep us posted... ok?

Oh I c, solder on a new brass elbow... that is the least desirable outcome :-( (my daughter said" i think you need glasses mom" so sorry... )

No.. that was me... ;)

So.. is this going to plumber.. *frown*

Ok you are right no experience soldering in walls... don't own a torch... I was trying to avoid that.. oh well I will keep at the brass elbow and believe for the best! Thanks so much for your great explanations once you understood me! :-)

I will, too... do not forget to check back tomorrow.. some of the others may have more ideas. Good night!

At this point, I would soak everything in WD40. Stuff a soaked small rag in there and let it do some of it's majik.

An extractor was suggested by MASS but I don't believe it has been tried. That is one of the tools a regular home owner might not have as I mentioned early on. I have had drains disintegrate before but this is a first for me for a shower pipe.

My only guess is that it was chrome plated steel rather than chrome plated copper.

With the right water conditions they can both turn into something as strong as a kids construction paper project.

If Marjorie decides to try to pick out the remenants of the coroded pipe, I woudd suggest that she start with a scratch awl. Its sharp point and tapered round shank would probably do less damage to the threads of the ell and be easier than a screwdriver. Never tried this though. What do you think?

HK.. I think it is a Great idea. Hope she sees suggestion.

If Marjorie decides to try to pick out the remenants of the coroded pipe, I woudd suggest that she start with a scratch awl. Its sharp point and tapered round shank would probably do less damage to the threads of the ell and be easier than a screwdriver. Never tried this though. What do you think?.
I use a small sharp chisel. But the tool mentioned by Mass and Bal is called a "Easy-Out" (see image), Before you tear into the tile and replace the drop eared ell rent a 1/2" Easy-Out and give it a try. Good luck, Tom

Speedball:

That's an inside pipe wrench not an easy out or am I seeing things.

Speedball:

That's an inside pipe wrench not an easy out or am I seeing things.
Same difference! Sold as a Easy-Out but can be used as a inside wrench. Perhaps you're more used to seeing this one, or perhaps these.(see image) Regards, Tom

Redanmer.. there you go... Some more pics... try the awl if you have one (or go to tool store and pick up an easy out/inside pipe wrench, awl... etc. As we have discussed... there are a few tools to try before opening that wall. Let us know what you decide.

Yep, thought it might confuse the guy at Lowe's that sells "Internal pipe wrenches".

1/2" Internal Pipe Wrench (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=28191-943-05212&lpage=none)

Looks like we both got it slightly wrong.