I have a fiberglass shower that I'm trying to remove, but I don't know where start. There are two parts to this shower, the base and the wall.

There are two knobs (hot/cold), they each have a screw in the middle that I have unscrewed, but they are still not coming off.

We are going to move this from home improvement to plumbing so the plumbers can chime in. We can take this piece by piece. There is more to your shower than the base, wall and knobs. Look at the pipe coimng out of the wall with the shower head, that comes off too. Lets start by shutting down the main water pipe and opening a faucet to blow off pressure. I am asssuming this unit is going into the dumpster so My solutions ill be a bit destructive. Put the two screws back into the handle stems but only for a few turns, do not tighten. Put a pry bar under the handle and pry outward as you strike the screw with a mallet or hammer. You may need to do this more than once and work around in a circle, not just one side. When you get the handles off come back and tell us what your see after removing the escutcheon plate behind the handles. In the meantime start locating a reciprocating saw; borrow, buy or rent.

Toolbeltgirl... do you have a shower door.. And what floor is this on..

No shower door, and it's on the second floor.

Cool... like Ballengerb1 said... it is all about the sawzall now ;)

First, loosen the plaster around the entire edge/flange of the shower unit and remove all screws or nails in the flange (flange is about 1.5 inches tall around whole shower covered by tile or plaster.. so need to remove this out of way to remove nails/screws).

Then, shut off water to shower and cut holes around the shower valve and the shower drain... will bounce and make lots of noise so I stand on drain with one foot as I cut around the drain (so pipe will not vibrate and break further away from the drain then you want it too). PLEASE BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT TOO DEEP... ESPECIALLY AROUND THE WATER PIPES... the shower wall is probably not more then an 1/8"-1/4" think so just use the tip of the blade!! (and wear goggles! )

Then you start to cut each piece (top and bottom) into pieces ( I cut each into 2 or 3 pieces).. here, again... do not cut too deep or you will end up cutting into the next room.. or maybe even some wires that may be on walls of the other rooms behind shower walls. Then you will need to disconnect the drain itself from the shower strainer... may just want to sawzall out the p-trap altogether so you can install new p-trap and strainer assembly. Then remove shower valve and temporarily cap the lines (plug or cap waste line too as sewer gases are very bad and construction debris can fall in.).

That should pretty much do it. Hey let me and Ballengerb1 know how this is going for you... we are glad to help... and I am sure there a few others that will be glad to join in and help as well!!

PS... if you are going to install a new fiberglass or acrylic shower unit you will be happier with installation if you set the new base in a structolite gypsum base (or plaster) then if you just set unit on floor!

Toolgirl, if you get to the removal point and we are on line be sure to kill the power in much of the house and use an extension cord on the saw. Too many folks clip wires by accident. I use a short wrecking blade that has teeth on 3 sides, its about 3" long and 1" wide. MASS mentions the new shower base needs a bed of material so it won't creek and click, I have ben using modified thinset tile mortar and it works great too.

Thank you for your help! I'm starting the removal this afternoon. And I'll let you know how it goes.

I do have an additional issue! The last owners had a subfloor installed on top of a rotten sub floor. Both sub floor were rotten, I'm afraid of what is going to be underneath the shower base.

I'm having the whole bathroom tiled, including the shower (I will leave this to the professionals). I know there is water proof dry wall, which I'm intending on instaling once the fiberglass showr is removed, but I'm not sure if there is a specific subflooring that is water proff, or if I shoulg apply something to it to make it water proof? Thanks

wrecking blade that has teeth on 3 sidesVery interesting . Could you show that.

As I understand it you will be installing a custom tile shower. You do realize that the rotton sub floor will have to be replaced before you can start work on the new shower don't you? Will you be any of the plumbing yourself? Do you need instructions on how to install the shower pan and flange type shower drain? If so give us all the details such as the material the pipes are made of. At this time I would consider replacing the shower valve, (you may keep the shower raiser and drop eared ell ) Let us know what you wish to do and how we can help you do it. Regards, Tom

I think the saw blade may be called the Xtreme Aggressor but can't find a pic on the net. Toolgirl, a great waterproof sub floor is made by the James Hardie Company called Hardiebacker. Looks a bit like drywall but twice as dense and heavy, 1/4" for flooring and 1/2" for walls. If you go with this be sure to buy their spoecial screws.

I intend to leave the handles and drain in the same place. Do I still need to have a plumber come over?

One more time! Will you be doing the work yourself?
Do you need instructions on how to install the shower pan and flange type shower drain? If so give us all the details such as the material the pipes are made of. You may leave the shower valve if you wish but the drain will have to be changed if you wish a custom tile shower. Regards, Tom

Toolbeltgirl, I am just a bit confused but are you going to try to reuse the base of the old shower and just add new tile walls. You can leave the shower head pipe in the same spot but you need to unscrew it from the elbow behind the wall. Try a web wrench or a pair of channel lock plyers but wrap the chrome tube with 10 wraps of duct tape or one wrap of rubber membrane, like an inner tube.

Ok! Shower is out, sub floor replaced; waterproof drywall up, I even replaced the shower handle that was broken (a little plumbing). All is left to do is prime the drywall and have the guys put in the tile.

I feel so empowered, I want to do the whole house now! Thank you for all your responses. I will post a picture when the whole thing is completed, too bad I forgot to take a “before picture”.

PS. Once the bathroom is ready I’m putting a new toilet in. Any advice? Thanks again.

Wish we had talked about this last week. What exactly do you mean by "waterproof drywall " We do not use drywall inside showers, don't even use green board any more since most all papered gypsum board will break down and mold if it gets wet. Had you asked I would have directed you to Wonderboard or Hardiebacker. Regarding the toilet, is the old flange in good enough shape and how does it compare with the finished surface of you new flooring?

I did put in the green dry wall. The tile people told me that was what I should use. Because it's a 8 by 6 bathroom, I used it on the whole thing.

Is there something I should do to prevent the mold. That is the last thing that I need!

In regards to the toylet. The metal part where the whole is seems pretty rusty, the sub floor was damaged due to a toilet leak. Should I have a plumber come and replace it with a newer one?

Hey toolbelt girl... I've been following the thread... I see you are in good hands.:rolleyes:...

Anyway just wanted to shout out a large agreement with Ballenger on that cement board around the shower!

I know you won't like it... but if I were you I would remove that green drywall in the shower area. At the very least you must remove the bottom layer of green board around the base of the shower and replace that with cement board. It is only a few pieces to be removed and I promise you --->> You will not regret it.

Green board wicks and rots and molds develop... bad for around any shower perimeter that will be tiled... period! Anyway, I know Ballenger will have more to say... so I am out... but wanted you to hear it from another remodeler/plumber... Green board not for shower. Sorry.

Greenboard is not for behind shower ceramic and the tile people steered you wrong. Take a minute and read this Installing Drywall In Wet Locations (http://www.askthebuilder.com/560_Installing_Drywall_in_Wet_Locations.shtml) It may last 5, 10 maybe 15 years, who knows but if I walked into a job and saw that greenboard was in the shower I would rip it out and install Hardiebacker. That metal part is called a flange and it has two slotted grooves on the left and right. Your mounting bolts drop into this groove and then slide so they are 100% parallel to the back wall. If the grooves are intact and the bolts will snig up it should be fine. I thought you said the subfloor was replaced so I am just wondering how the top surface of the new tile matches with the top surface of the flange, arethey level to each other or is one lower than the other?

Are you talking about the flange that is at the bottom of the shower?

Would it be OK, if I romoved only the first 3ft around the shower, and leave the remainder of the green dry wall.

Also the wonderboard looks kind of hard to cut it, do you install it with nails or screws.

The tile guys are building a cement border for the shower (on the floor). Should they do something different?

No no, the flange is the rusty thing under the toilet. No, I would rip out all the drywall that would be covered by ceramic. Greenboard is OK for damp installation and places that can get wet once in a while but not inside the shower itself. The tile guys are building a shower pan from scratch. If they know what they are doiung and use a membrane it should be ideal. I hate that job so I use redi-made fiberglass pans made by Swanstone or others.

Can I apply the cement board on top of the already placed green board.

In addition, it was really difficult to apply the holes for the handles, and the cement board seems really hard to cut, I don't have the right tools. Does home depo cut it to my dimensions?

I don't know how the flange level with the level of the tile. I have to make sure when I go home today.

I will have to make sure that the flange is at the same level.

Can I place the cement board on top of the green dry wall, in addition the holes for the shower handles were really hard to cut out with the green board. How do I make with in a cement board?

Just to let you know, you took my happiness away! I thought I was done, now I have all this work to do:-(

Toolbeltgirl... sorry again... no to putting concrete board on top of greenboard... same issues, rot/mold, wicking occurring only now there is concrete board on top... just not considered good practice. You take care.

You would be compounding your problem to put Wonderboard on topo of drywall. Just rip it down and remove all nails/screws. Also, your shower mixer is not designed for a wall this thick and you may throuw off the shower pan guys. Hardiebacker is a bear to cut. You can score it like drywall but make 3-4 cuts and be prepared for a difficult snap. I frequently use a carbide blade on a circular saw but you need a mask and goggles. Cement board cuts the same as Hardie, just a bit easier. You can also cut both with a course blade in a jig saw, through the blade away when done.

The inside of the showe walls are 8ft high. The tile is only going up to 61/2 ft.

Is it OK to just place the cement board to where the tile will be applied or do I do it up to the ceiling? The tile is also going to be applied as 4ft around the bathroom, so I have to applie the special board there?

You can stop the cement board at the top of your tile line at 6.5'. The 4' of tile around the rest of the room can be just greenboard, I think you said you already used greenboard for the rest of the room so it can stay.

The tile company is actually installing the cement board in the shower. And I removed the green dry wall last night.

Regarding the toilet, do you think I can replace the base where the toilet is supposed to go, or should I hire someone to do that?

Thank you

Regarding the toilet, do you think I can replace the base where the toilet is supposed to go,
By "base" do you mean the toilet flange? Why do you wish to replace it? If it's broken they make repair kits for that. If it's just rusty then it should be OK. Give us the details. Regards. Tom

It's just really rusty. Also the previous owners let a toilet leak damgage the floor, I'm not sure if that leak was coming from the valve that turns on and off, or ift it was because of the flange being so old!
Thank you

Wire brush the flange a bit but the wax seal should still make a good seal againist sewer gas. Once everything is back together check your supply stop for dripping, same for the connection at the underside of the tank. If you are installing a new toilet or never set a toilet before we can help with that. Tom's done a million toilets and I'm just 999,000 behind him.

Ok, right now I have a rag covering the whole to prevent the gases from coming up. My understanding is that I should take the flange a part (is there a screws keeping it together on top) then proceed to brush with a wire brush, and place it all together again.

I'm bying a water saving toilet, and the wax to go around the glange. Is there something else I'm missing?

Don't remove the flange, just brush it in place and vac up any debris. The toilet will likely come with all parts installed inside tha tank, you mount the toilet to the floor and then the tank on the toilet. You can usually buy a small kit that has the wax ring, replacement brass bolts and braided supply line, this kit is pretty much the only stuff not supplied with the toilet. Remember to remove that rag! When you are ready to set the toilet come on back here and we can walk you through the tspes, not difficult and we will try to not breaker your china.

I checked the flange last night after I cleaned it up. There was a brass wring (very old) around it, the nails were all rusty, and it was loose (there was 3 screws on it but they were not attached to anything. The actual inside was very soft, and it had a small hole on the side. When looking inside the hole, you could see that the soft part was placed inside the hole, and it looks removable. Do you think I should just get a plumber to come over and fix it for me?

Thank you

While looking through the web, it seems to me that I can purchase a device that is going to fit inside the hole and allow for the ring to be attached to it on top, followed by the wax.

I also noticed that there are pieces that have the ring and the inside fitting thing already put together. Actually one claimed that it did not need the wax ring making it easier to apply the toilet on top. Since I'm 5ft tall and only 110 lbs, I thought that applying the one without the wax my be easier for me. What do you think?

You can always call a plumber anywhere along a project if you feel you may be getting over your head. Any chance of a picture of what you see? That would help a lot. Does it look like any of this? Installing A New Toilet (http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/bath/projects/remod_w1/toilet/new_1/install.htm)