Hi everyone,

I am the new guy here and I hate fixing cars sometimes. I have a 96 Civic Ex VTEC car that won't start. I found out that I am not getting spark when the engine is cranking. I tested this out by setting the spark plug close to some metal or ground. The ignition coil resistance tested good when I had it tested at AutoZone. I just replaced the ignition control module. Still no spark. I am pretty sure the timming is correct too. My roater looks good and I have just bought a new cap but haven't installed it yet. Any ideas on what to check next? I doubt it is because of the cap but just bought it anyway. Thanks.

. Provide me with the answers to the questions below:

a. Turning the ignition switch to ON (or Position II), not START, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds?

b. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"?

c. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post252145

Yes, CEL comes on for 2 seconds a goes away, Main Relay clicks, and I can hear the fuel pump. Also manually pulled out all the fuses and all checked good. Last night I installed the new cap and it actually is creating sparks. I noticed one thing that I did wrong was crossed the iginition wires which screwed up the firing order. After correcting the ignition wires I noticed a big difference when cranking. It just sounded better. However, still can't start. I got spark, timing is correct, airflow and fuel. My brother believes that the engine might have flooded after all the cranking. I took out the spark plugs and verified that they were wet with fuel. I left the plugs out and hopefully by the time I get home all the fuel would evaporate. I'll post the results once I find out, but what do you guys think? I am on the right track? Thanks.

Yes, it sounds like you are on the right track. I would also replace the rotor and spark plugs (NGK only). Ensure you applied heat transfer silicone grease to the back of the new Ignition Control Module.

Still can't start after letting the fuel dry out. Someone suggested that the TDC/CRANK Angle Sensors inside the distributor might need to be tested. What do you think? What tools can I use to test the sensors with and how? Are the NGK plugs and heat silicone grease nessesary to get the engine started, if not I'll do that later since I am short cash. I think I might have autolite for my plugs. I brought my roater to AutoZone and it looked fine compared to a new one. It's getting frustrating now. I just hope I find the problem on my next attempt.

If you figure out how to test those sensors, let me know. Those sensors are not serviceable. If you decide to replace the distributor housing, which is a good bet at this point, go with a genuine Honda distributor.

NGK spark plugs work best, but are not essential to getting it started. Once you get the car started, however, you should immediately apply the silicone grease to the back of the ICM or it won't last long.

Got it. I'll let you know how it goes. I am not sure but just heard from a machanic that some shops might have expensive tools to test those sensors. Don't know if they'll charge me and if that is even the case. I'll find out by tomorrow. Thanks.

Finally got the time to look at the car again. But, I figured out how to test those sensors... at least for resistance. According to OnDemand5.com: online auto repair, estimating, and service information (http://www.ondemand5.com), on the harness male connector, test with multimeter pins 2&4, 3&6 and 4&8 for ohms. The readings should be 350 - 700 ohms. Mine was reading 345, so... I guess it is bad. To make sure, I went to Auotzone and tested a new one that they had and it was testing in the 365s. I am in the process of buying a new distributor. They cost an arm and a leg so I'm getting one off Ebay.