Hi there,
we have a rather new house (3 years) and one day the outlet on our kitchen island stopped working. I checked the other outlets around the kitchen and found out that there was another one that was not working.
After asking around I was told to check the following things in this order:
1. the circuit breakers
2. the switch under the sink
3. push the test buttons on all the GFI outlets and reset them

None of that made a difference. Then, A buddy of mine gave me a tester with three lights on (1 red and two yellow ones)
When I plugged the tester into the original outlet, it showed both yellow lights but when I plugged in our paper shredder, which was always plugged there and worked great, it did not show any life in it.

Then for some stupid reason, I plugged the tester again and this time pushed the little black button on top of it and the test button on one of the GFI outlets in the kitchen popped and it stopped working.

I tried to push the reset button but it would not do it. Now all three (2 regular and 1 GFI) outlets show the red and the last yellow light on.

RED X YELLOW and the guide says hot/grd reverse

I know nothing about any of this. Partly because my dad was a horrible teacher and never really showed me any of that stuff without yelling.
So, let me know what if any I can do to fix this. Also, speak to me as if you would to someone who does not understand as I said I know very little of the terminology.

Do you think I need to call a technician? I am not cheap but I much rather spend the money on something else.

thank you very much. I would appreciate any help.

You outlet is a source of 115 volts of power. I work with 240, 370, and 440 volts and it is very dangerous but the 115 volts that serves your outlet is just as dangerous in no more so. If you don't know how electricity works call a pro, spend the money with him and you make more money in what ever you do as a job to spend on those other things you mentioned. Plus never use or trust a tester that only shows you lights, use one that shows you voltage and amperage. Be Safe.

Unplug the shredder, push the reset, and plug in the tester or whatever you have to do to get some response out of the outlet. Then go throw the breaker you think controls it. If the lights go out, it is then should be safe to work on the outlet. Might not hurt to throw the adjacent ones too. Take out the screws holding the cover plate and outlet, and pull it out. With it turned with the ground plug down, there should be nickel plated screws on the left with one or more white wires connected, and black or other color connected to brass screws on the other side. The wires may be pushed into holes in the back, but still white next to nickel and black to brass. There should be a bare wire connected to a green screw. If the black and white are reversed, switch them. Otherwise, just make sure the wires are tight. The GFCI might be a good outlet to start. It will have terminals at one end marked line, and in the middle marked load. If the incoming power is connected to line, anything powered off the load terminals will be GFCI too. If you check all the outlets, and everything is wired up as I said, the problem could be in the breaker box. If so, I support calling an electrician. Even if you shut the main breaker off, the main, incoming wires are still hot.

Post back, and let us know. We may have other ideas depending what you find.

Hi,
I second the idea of checking the outlets themselves; by pulling them out of the wall slightly, and just a little, to tighten the wiring, making sure the screws are tight.
But, first, be sure the power is off at the outlet!
Sometimes, if they are loose, it will cause "smoking", which can be seen.
Best wishes, and good luck.

First thing check warranty on house if bought new .They may cover this

Sounds like you may have too much on one circuit or the fuse is not rhe right one ,should be 20amp for sockets and 15amp for lights.Go and look at the fuse panel and try them all,on off on,maybe this are on a different circuit.lf you have a air conditioner for window plugged in ,this can cause this,its happened to me .lt requires 30 amp fuse or it kills the circuit when it comes on.If you have a cooktop on island it requires its own fuse box under/inside island check this breaker switch.Have you added anything lately to this circuit?

Ps buy new cg switches shut power to them,replace and try.Move shedder or unplug for now and run with out if it works shedder is overloading the circuit.

Some more comments I want to add. dv320 has a point on the warranty. If there is a problem with miswired outlets, the builder may be happy to fix them even out of warranty rather than discuss them with the building inspector. He may also want to switch electrical subcontractors.

I think maybe you would be able to leave the outlets in place and check the black and white wires with a flashlight with only the cover plates off. An apparent dead outlet could have a live, but broken wire in it.

Many people find those little plug in testers useful. I have never used one, but they are a quick, safe way to check some of the basics. If you expect to be doing much yourself, you might pick up a few tools. I am not sure but what my first suggestion might be a voltage detector, followed by a cheap multimeter. You can pick up both for less than $25. Voltage detectors work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit.

To add to labman... for 30 bucks Lowe's sells a Greenlee Kit that has a Cat II digital meter, voltage tester, and outlet tester. Outlets testers are actually a reliable troubleshooting tool due to their simplicity. And a meter is invaluable.