I have a 93 Civic DX with a 1.5L auto and about 120,000 miles. It has been sitting for a few months prior to what is happening. On Saturday I had to charge the battery and then also jump it to get the car running. I left the car running for about half an hour and then it just stopped. It didn't overheat. I went to start the car again and all it did was crank and crank some more. I then pulled a plug and I am getting spark. I also loosed the output line from the fuel filter and fuel comes out when I turn the key on. While in the car I can hear the fuel pump turn on, the check engine light comes on then goes off and I hear a relay click too. On Sunday morning I tried to start the car once again and still just cranking over. Last night, Monday evening, when I got home from work I turned the key and it fired up. I shut it right off, ate dinner and tried to start it again and it fired up again. I let it run for about 20-30 minutes and then shut it down. I then tried to re-fire and it just cranked and cranked. This morning, Tuesday, I tried to start it and it will not fire. To me it seems that I have a fuel problem of some sort. Is there a EFI relay that could be acting up? Could the fuel pump have good pressure sometimes and then lose pressure? Any help would be great since I am trying to sell the car and don't want to spend a lot of time and money on the car. Thanks, Scott.:confused:

. Reset the ECM.
. Test/replace the ICM and coil.
. Test/replace the PGM-FI Main Relay.
. Replace the fuel filter.

Where is the PGM-FI relay located in the car?

Left of fuse box, wedged against left kick panel and above hood latch. Remove fuse box cover and lower dash panel for access.

Tx,

I reset the ECM and changed the fuel filter and the car seems to be back to normal. Thanks for your help.

Scott

Tx,
I am still having the problem and not it seems the just won't start at all. I have replaced the fuel filter, battery, main relay, fuel pump within the last week and it that order. It ran after the main relay change but now nothing at all. I checked for spark on one plug and I have good spark. Could it be the ICM still?
Scott

Had the ICM checked and it came back okay.

Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post252145

Does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and go off, after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? Does it do this every time? If it doesn't, perform the K-Test on the ECM.

You should, at least, test the coil. Personally, I would replace the ignitor and coil on any Honda over 10 years old. Ensure the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs, and spark plug wires are in good shape. If the problem persists, there may be a problem with the CKP, CYL, or TDC sensors inside the distributor housing. Since they are not serviceable, it would require replacing the housing--my recommendation is to only go with a genuine Honda housing.

If the CEL comes on and goes off properly, my sense is that it is a distributor-related problem. Here's how to replace it, if it should come to that:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post288473

Tx,
This car is really starting to annoy me. I had the ICM test at an Advanced Auto parts store and the said that it was okay. I put it back in and the car started right up. About 1hr later the car started again and I moved it in my drive way. Now about 3.5hrs later I tried to start the car and it just cranks. Could there actually be a problem with the ICM? I am lost with this one.

Yes, it's possible. It's also important to coat the back of the ignitor with heat transfer silicone grease; otherwise, it won't function properly, after the engine warms up. Did you do this, when you reinstalled the ignitor?

Be sure and run the K-Test on the ECM. It wouldn't surprise me if it's breaking down intermittently. It's a simple, but powerful test. Ignitors can also breakdown intermittently.

You may want to read Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563.html

When you say ignitor you are referring to the ICM? If so I didn't remove it from the metal plate that it attaches too. I remove the ICM and plate as a unit and had it tested. Is between the ICM and plate where the grease should go? For the ECM the check engine light functions properly, comes on then goes off after a few seconds.

ICM=ignitor

Yes. The metal plate is the heat sink and the silicone grease goes between the ICM and the heat sink. It's possible the previous owner never used silicone grease either and it's now affecting performance. These are just items I would check out. Obviously, my help is limited from afar.

90%+ of "crank but won't start situations" are electrical-related, not fuel. Most of these problems with Hondas are related to failing ECMs, ICMs, coils, and distributor housings. ICMs are electrical points, controlling when the primary circuit of the coil opens and closes. This generates much higher voltage in the secondary circuit. It's possible to have spark but not at the right time. The timing of the spark is controllled by the ECM and ICM. A failing ICM will not "ignite" or fire when the ECM directs it to.