Our 4 year old Maytag refrigerator (MTB2156GE) is not providing adequate cooling. We pulled it out and cleaned behind and below- all systems appear to be working, but even as we adjust thermostat for cooler temp, it remains tempid inside. Frig has also been making some loud noises- almost like the sound an empty plastic soda bottle makes when the air inside heats up and the plastic expands. Is there an online repair manual we can consult before calling in the expensive repair person?

Hi,
When you say you have cleaned behind and below it, I assume you have cleaned out all the dust buildup from the coils under the refrigerator itself.
If it's low on gas, then the only option is to call a repair person.
I am sure someone will be along to give some things you might check on yourself. Best of luck.

I am one of those "expensive" guys---are you still having trouble? Maybe I can help.

I have actually been having the same problem. We have a Maytag MTB2156GEQ and it hasn't been cooling well at all lately. Temp in the fridge is about 52 degrees even on the highest setting. The freezer seems to be fine. I pulled off the back panel and vacuumed out the condenser coil and everything else under there. I then pulled out the control panel on the ceiling of the fridge. The channel between the freezer and fridge was almost completely blocked with ice. I cleaned it out by taking out the back panel of the freezer and pouring hot water down through the hole until it was clear. I figured that would solve it but it doesn't seem to be any better. Does the fridge get its cooling through that channel in the bottom of the freezer? Any help would be great,thanks.

How old is it? Usually if the coil ices up, the unit has a leak and is low on Freon. I just saw the bill for repairing a couple of leaks and refilling the Freon on one, $210. Likely a good move on that large comercial unit. A home refrigerator likely going to be almost as much. You may want to check the price of a new one.

It wasn't the coil that iced up, it was the vent between the freezer and fridge. The freezer is working fine, it's like the fridge isn't getting the cold air it needs.

I am sorry, I guess I didn't read your post carefully enough. I think each section has its own expansion valve and coils. The one expansion valve could be bad. They are outside DIY. Applguy may be able to give more details.

Yes, it looks like a repairman might be in order. I've tried everything I can think of. Thanks for the thoughts though, it's appreciated. One question, there's a fan at the back of the freezer behind the cover that leads to the fridge. It never seems to run at all. Does it only come on at certain times?

I think I finally figured out the problem. The circulating fan in the back of the freezer doesn't turn on anymore when the condenser runs. I think it's keeping the air from reaching the lower compartment effectively. My problem now is I don't know why it's not running anymore. I'm guessing either bad connection or bad fan. I know there was a wiring schematic in the control panel of the fridge but unfortunately I can't seem to find it anymore. Does anyone know where I could find one?

The schematic won't help you in this case. The fan in this refrigerator should always run when the compressor is running. The fan in the freezer section is called the evaporator fan motor. You are quite right; if the evap fan motor doesn't run, the fresh food section will be starved for air. The upper sections of the freezer will also be warmer than the lower sections. Depending on the age of the unit, it's probably a small, white body Panasonic fan motor. This fan motor has not proven itself to be worth the plastic it's made of. It is probably not a connection problem, rather a bad fan motor. At this point, you have one of two options: 1) go to a local appliance service depot and ask for Maytag Genuine Parts part number 61005339; I charge $90.00 for this motor, so you should expect about that much. 2) go to an appliance repair depot that has a local Johnstone supply account and ask for part number S58-099: I charge 36.00 for this motor. This is the motor I use regularly. If you use the Johnstone motor, you have to reverse the rotor so the shaft rotates the same way as the original, which is a very simple operation. The Johnstone motor won't have the exact connections as the original, but I always try to connect the new motor leads in such a way as to not cut off any factory harness connectors, whenever possible. If you use wire nuts or bell terminals, it is best to fill the connector with silicone after you crimp it to keep moisture out of your connection. Hope the info helps.

Yes, exactly. I actually have the fan motor sitting here next to me, and it's the white panasonic you mentioned. ;) I found a site online where I can order it from. Just so I'm sure it's the motor, do you happen to know the voltage that it should be getting when the condenser so I can check the connections at the fan? Thanks for the help.

120 Volts AC. By the way, you keep mentioning the condenser. The condenser is just a coil of tubing under the refrigerator. I'm sure you mean compressor, which is the motorized pump that moves the refrigerant. It's a small detail, but you sometimes can get into trouble by using the wrong terms. Good luck.

Hmm, when I checked the power at the leads it doesn't seem to be getting any power at all. Green/yellow wire is the ground obviously, but I'm not getting anything on the blue and orange ones. Also, any easy way to check and see if the fan itself is bad? I really appreciate the answers so far, this thing has been kicking my butt for a few days now.

What exactly does the motor connection look like? Also, what are the first two numbers of the serial number?

Sorry, you're right, I meant the compressor. And I think I got it now. Helps if you set the damn voltmeter for AC instead of DC. :rolleyes: I've got a good 120v AC at the plug, it has to be the fan. I'll order a new one and hopefully that should take care of it. In case I missed something it's a 4 pin connector, all in a row, with the blue and orange wires at either end. Serial number is UDQR002MB. I know it might be getting repetitive, but thanks again. My wife is ecstatic we don't have call someone to come fix it. :D

Your serial sticker must not be very legible anymore. Maytag serial number nomenclature is always 8 numbers followed by 2 letters. The first two numbers are usually extremely important to make sure you get the right part. Fortunately, there are only two factory fan motors for this unit, and the only difference was the electrical connection. If you use the Johnstone motor, it doesn't matter. If you want the exact factory replacement, you have to have the first two numbers of the serial number. If they are "10", the number to order is 61005339. If they are "14", you will order 61005935, which specifies "evap motor, with lead". The 61005935 is much cheaper, usually around 60.00.

Yes, I found it now. Heh, I gave you the number off the fan itself, not the fridge. It's a 61005935 motor. I'm going to try and find someone around here tomorrow with a johnstone motor. If I can't I'll order the factory replacement.

Don't forget, with the Johnstone motor, you have to reverse the rotation so the blade turns the right way. You can insert (very carefully) the motor wires into any outlet briefly to verify upward airflow. Unfortunately, with the small 4 wire connector, you will just have to cut it off and wire up to the new motor. The only problem with that is that you can't ever put the original design motor back in. Not that you would ever need to or even want to, but I like to keep my options open. The other tip I forgot is to wait until the new motor is mounted to the evap cover, then slide the fan blade onto the shaft. You want half the blade width to be behind the panel and the other half to be in front of the cover. Essentially, you want the blade to be half way in the hole; if you push it on too far or not far enough, airflow won't be right and cooling ability will be reduced. I think you've got it now, so I'll leave you to it. Don't worry about repetitive, you can only learn when you ask.

Sounds good, thanks. One interesting thing, the motor I pulled out is definitely the 61005935, but the fridge serial number starts with a 12. Since I know which motor it is it's a moot point, but it still seems odd.

The 10 & 14 numbers are series numbers. They signify a design change to some part(s) of the appliance. That's why they are very important. Series 10 parts are valid until the next change, in this case, series 14. So series 10 part numbers work in series 10, 11, 12, and 13 units. Series 14 parts are valid for series 14 units up to the point of the next change. All manufacturers must use some type of system like this to help technicians in the field get the right parts the first time, because the appliance industry has become very volatile in the last decade or two. Sorry to confuse you, I should have been clearer before.

I am having the same problem with my Maytag MTB2156GE. I purchased and installed the new fan motor and it still does not work. What could cause the fan to not run while the compressor is running? Is this something I can fix on my own or should I have someone else look into it?

If you have a voltmeter check the leads that connect to the fan. You should be getting 120v AC at those leads. If not then for some reason it's not sending power like it should be. Mine was just the fan, so if there's no current there I would check the connections and make sure there isn't a short or a broken wire somewhere. If that doesn't work I'm out of ideas unfortunately. Good luck.

Did you try the motor wires in the outlet as applguy said on the last page? If the fan runs that way and not in the frig, follow the wires back and see where they come from. I would think the compressor and fan would be on the same relay, but they could be different. Otherwise, wait for applguy.

When the thermostat is calling for cooler temps (closed contacts) and the defrost timer is in a cooling mode (contacts 1 & 4 closed), the compressor, condenser fan and evaporator fan all should have power. There are no switches, etc. in the circuit. What is the part number of the new fan motor you just installed? Make sure the evaporator is not completely plugged with frost or ice - should have a lightly frosted but complete frost pattern. You will have the same symptom as a dead evap fan. You might also include the serial number in your next post.

The part number of the motor is 61005935. The full model number of the fridge is MTB2156GES.

I managed to take everything apart, clear out the ice, and replace the motor. At this point the fridge is cold, but the fan never runs.

I also feel like there is a problem with the slider for the fridge temperature. It is not smooth at all. Does this slider have an effect on the timer or electrical functions, or does it just open and close a vent?

I'll open it back up and check for voltage. The first time I just assumed the new fan motor would run.

Thanks for all of the help!

The fresh food slider arm is attached to a thermostatic damper. When you slide it back and forth, you are adjusting the damer internally, and based on that adjustment, the damper opens and closes the air door automatically. The only way it might affect the electrical function would be if someone had taken the controls down from the ceiling and maybe got some wires entangled in the mechanism. Otherwise, probably not. Depending on the motor connection, there may be a problem there. Some motors had (2) 1/4" male spade connectors that wires just plugged onto them. Others had a quick disconnect plug with small pins inside. I seem to recall a problem with the latter of the two, with moisture getting inside the plug and causing some corrosion. Depending on the age of the unit, this may or may not be the cause. Did the new motor come with 2 blue wires permanently attached to the motor, or was it just a 4 pin plug on the side of the motor?

I will check the leads for corrosion. The motor looked exactly like the old one. A blue and white wire with a plastic plug at the end. The plastic plug clicked directly into the fridge connection.

It was the connection. For some reason it was not a tight fit and I had to mess with it. It works fine now. Thanks so much for all of the help!

You're the man APPLGUY. I never bought a new fridge in my life , I did A/C repair in the 80s and 90s. I decided to finally get the wife a new fridge and never seemed to remember many broke Maytags. DID I GET A SURPRISE, what a cheap piece of crap our new MAYTAG PLUS turned out to be. That evaporator fan seems to last about 2 years (on our second one). Will that replacement fan you talked about last any longer then that White stool that Panasonic is selling Maytag?

Frankl1955

When I find a dead Panasonic, I will usually give the owner the choice of the original or the "aftermarket" fan motors. Most of the time, they choose not to use the original, and I've never heard back from any of them. Last week I found one where she chose to use the original (twice the price) last time, and it was dead again in less than six months. Now she chose the other, but she had to pay again. Obviously it's not the norm, and hopefully it won't happen to you again. At least if it does, you'll know what to do anyway. So, I take it you're not too surprised that Maytag became flat broke and is now part of the Whirlpool Corporation? Nor am I. Cheers.

Thanks again

Frank

Just wanted to say thanks to applguy for the info about alternate motors. I Was just about to put a 3rd Panasonic in our PTB2153GEW but got an aftermarket motor from Johnstone via a local electric motor shop. In case anyone else turns up this web page (I found it searching by the Panasonic P/N), the motor I got was made by Gem, box marked GEMLINE EM-245. It was CW rotation but included the very simple instructions on converting it to CCW. Also just in case it helps someone else out in the future, a cross reference I found somewhere also mentioned Gem EM-326 as being CCW, a MARS 90905, and Bomax 501-7295 CCW and 501-7085 CW.

Hi, I have the same Maytag model and it got the replacement motor because the original wasn't working. The frig started working really nice, you know, keeping things frozen, and food and water fresh. But now, after about 6 weeks from the replacement, the fan is still working, but the lower section is not getting any cool. Any clue on this?

A new wrinkle on the old story. Maytag MTB1956GE nearly-new fridge gets warm, but freezer compartment still cold. I followed the advice in these columns and found the evaporator fan not running. Unplugged the fan and tested the cable - nice healthy 120v (I have the scars to prove it.) Tested the fan (white panasonic UDQR002MGL) with voltmeter - generates a volt or two of DC when you spin the fan. Tested fan with 120v supply and it ran perfectly! Put it back in the fridge and it ran OK. Screwed the panel back up and it didn't run any more. Crazy!

Finally solved the problem by noticing that when the compressor starts up, the fan blades twitch once slightly, then nothing. Flick the blades and it runs fine - but 4 times out of 5 it won't restart when the compressor restarts. So the motor has almost lost its ability to self-start.

I'm off to buy a Johnstone S58-099 or Bremco 1500-0122 or Bremox 501-7295 or Gem Em-326 or Mars 90905. No more Panasonic for me.

Can't buy Johnstone or Bomax or ANY of those motors in Ontario - "they sell them to manufacturers direct, sir"... however, local electric motor store sold me a Rotom T1-R670 fan motor kit. Fits neatly into the enclosure, mounts easily, and is supplied with two fans, the smaller of which is ideal. Working fine, but two concerns:
- The original Panasonic fan motor says "58 mA" on the case, although web sources say it consumes 0.24A (i.e. 240 mA). The R670 consumes 0.5A - I hope the relays are mechanical and not solid-state!
- The new fan is a bit noisy, although it does circulate the cold air a lot better. I think I can "flash-freeze" things now!
One word of advice: in web searches look for "appliance parts", not "electric motors", otherwise you get offered BIG motors rated in horsepower!

Hey all. I'm having the same problem with my Amana that uses the same Pannasonic motor as desribed above. At first I thought it was the motor but now it seems that the wires to the motor (white, yellow, green) are not sending power. What do I need to look for here? Can I just hotwire the motor or will that cause problems?

The Panasonic motor runs on 120v - supply hydro directly to yours to see if it works. BUT no, you can't usefully hotwire the fan. This would have two drawbacks. First, your fan will run all the time (wastes electricity, noisy, and will wear it out faster). Second, you will find it difficult to stop the fridge getting too cold (or the freezer too warm), because the fan will constantly try to equalize their temperatures. Go on, splurge $18 on a new motor!

applguy, I must say you are the one with the answeres I've been looking for. In Alaska, all I get from Maytag is to contact a service guy. The search returns a message that says "no service within 2000 miles. Please choose another state." And, the Maytag operators are really rude.

I had the same problem. I found the motor before I found this site, and ordered one. A week later, they sent a different motor, which really frustrated me at first. I think it may be a better deal.

My frige is a MFF2557HEW. The motor I took out was #ADL-5846AMEA 12732602. The one they sent was a #12002744.

I put it in a half hour ago. Things seem to be running, but I couldn't check wheather the rotation was correct because the old motor wasn't running. From the part numbers can you verify that the rotation is correct? I am assuming the air flow should go up on a bottom freezer model, but I didn't check the direction before I reassembled the unit. I can take it apart again to check, unless you can tell me it's the correct motor.

Thank you

applguy, you prove how wrong the sceptics are. I have an older Maytag, but the same fan problem just appeared. I'm on Long island. There's a Johnstone store near me. Thanks to you, I can phone them up with my model number and get some results.

My Maytag is a MTB2156DE -- Are the fans for the newer models interchangeable with the one in my freezer that died?

applguy, you prove how wrong the sceptics are. I have an older Maytag, but the same fan problem just appeared. I'm on Long island. There's a Johnstone store near me. Thanks to you, I can phone them up with my model number and get some results.

My Maytag is a MTB2156DE -- Are the fans for the newer models interchangable with the one in my freezer that died?

I'm on Long Island also. Can you tell me where you found the part? I have the same issue with a Magic Chef CTN1911GEW that just had the evaporator fan motor replaced last summer and it seems to have died again. The old part number was UDQR002MB.

Thanks.

I found the original Maytag motor at Suffolk Appliance in Bayshore, on the Sunrise Highway. They are exceptionally helpful, and even walked me through the installation on the phone. Phone them at 631 665 6445. Good luck.

New Maytag purchased Saturday, May 11, 2007 not cooling in either freezer or inside model #MSD2641 getting ready to send it back to Home Depot, any quick suggestion for getting it going?

I found the original Maytag motor at Suffolk Appliance in Bayshore, on the Sunrise Highway. They are exceptionally helpful, and even walked me through the installation on the phone. Phone them at 631 665 6445. good luck.

Thanks much!

Our 4 year old Maytag refrigerator (MTB2156GE) is not providing adequate cooling. We pulled it out and cleaned behind and below- all systems appear to be working, but even as we adjust thermostat for cooler temp, it remains tempid inside. Frig has also been making some loud noises- almost like the sound an empty plastic soda bottle makes when the air inside heats up and the plastic expands. Is there an online repair manual we can consult before calling in the expensive repair person?
I have the same fridge as the original poster. The lower unit was getting warm so I cranked the temp down. 2 weeks later my pop sickles melted and the upper part was not cooling correctly. So I pulled the back of the freezer from the inside and found ice. So I thawed it out. Plugged it in and I noticed the upper fan doesn't work. So it looks like I'll be purchasing a new condenser fan. Purchased 25Jun2002...

I've got the same problem with a kenmore refrideg(106.71289100), condenser fan motor. The motor will not self start, but, will run fine if I spin the fan manually to get it going. It's a white panasonic motor: UDQR003W8, 48mA.

I found the thing at repairclinic for $87,
Appliance Parts from RepairClinic.com - Product Details (http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=826910&SeqID=1&Chg=1)

I'd like to find something cheaper that may actually work for awhile.

Any suggestions on replacement motors?

Thanks,
Wr

That price is about right for a new one. Maybe could try a local appliance store. May get a different price or many appliance repair centers may have a used motor. Good Luck

Same Problem with maytag mtb2156ge fridge. Uses the same panasonic motor. I've been using a butterknife to reach the fan motor and give it a flick to start it. Glad to know that I should use an alternate since the Pana is NFG. Cold Beer at last!!

I have the same problem with a Kenmore fridge but my motor # is UDQR003W7 as opposed to ending in 8. Does anyone know if they are interchangeable?
There also seems to be a Whirlpool # associated with this motor: 2206036

I found these motors much cheaper via Ebay (item 320148888241) and also at partstore.com
I have no idea if the quality differs with the cheaper versions but the eBay one is made by panasonic which is the case with the one in my fridge.

John

LocalHero, the UDQR003W7 and the UDQR003W8 are interchangeable. They are supposed to be the same motor with the '7 manufactured in Japan and the '8 manufactured in Thailand. I have seen evidence that strongly suggests that the '8's are more reliable than the '7's. Either could have the problem where they lose the ability to self-start, but the problem is more likely to occur with the '7's.

Thanks applguy. I had the same problem with my Maytag frig and you saved me big $$$.
I replaced the evaporator fan myslef with no problem.

The one caution was that the new fan came with a different connector. I had to cut and splice the wire with wire ties. Rather not have done that... I'm not sure if the parts store made a mistake or this is common.

This thread sounds close to my issue.

After 8 years, my MTB2156DE is no longer defrosting. No Popping or hissing and frost/ice build up on the back wall in the freezer. The evaporative fan is running continually but the refrig is warming up to 50 degrees F.

I have yet to start pulling it apart, but the symptoms makes me think either the defroster itself or it's thermostat is bad. Are there any diagrams available to know what I am looking once I get into unit? Altenatively, suggestion on checking components to see which one is bad?

I fixed my problem tonight and I just wanted to write and resurrect this thread to thank applguy for such great advice. I also have a Maytag MTB2156GE. It was running loudly the past few weeks and finally stopped running. The freezer and fridge were cold, but not cold enough.

I was shocked to find the 61005339 motor was $100! So after reading this thread, I asked the parts counter if there was an "off brand" motor I could use and the guy said, "Oh, well, sure...we have this universal one for twenty dollars." It took me a few minutes to install it and presto, the fridge is working again!

Thanks, applguy! You saved me a lot of money!

I ran into the same problem with multiple failures on the little panasonic fan. I just installed a different one and had to hard wire it in - not sure if I got the fan direction going the right way.
Its is blowing air not sucking air. Model is a freezer on top model. Maytag MTB2156GE - should the fan blow air or pull it in?

My Mytag fridge is about 5 years old and same thing happened where no ice since the freezer won't cool to the desired temperature. I spoke to a friend he came and unplugged the fridge, 2 seconds later, he plugged it back in. If the compressor doesn't start, If you don't here the noise it's the overload and the relay. Just change those two parts and it will work.

But only if you try the first step which is unplugging. Also you can check to see if the little tub there is hot. It should always be hot.

<<From Kalfaz: I ran into the same problem with multiple failures on the little panasonic fan. I just installed a different one and had to hard wire it in - not sure if I got the fan direction going the right way. Its is blowing air not sucking air. Model is a freezer on top model. Maytag MTB2156GE - should the fan blow air or pull it in?>>

Fan should turn CCW when installed thus drawing air up over evaporator, through fan hole and out (blowing air) into the freezer and down plastic channel to the fridge.

Sounds like the defrost system has a problem such as a bad heater, terminator, or timer. The refrigerator gets its cold air through that hole, but if coils are blocked with ice it will not get enough airflow to cool. I hope you put all of the panels you removed back like you found them and the condenser is clean. DrTom4444

It would not leak unless you poked around with a sharp tool and punctured a line or broke a line by moving it. DrTom4444

You don't need a diagram, only a meter. If power is getting to fan and it's not running then you need a fan, otherwise find the fan switch and check it out. It's very simple to diagnose. These fans can be found at any parts house. DrTom4444

The Johnstone motor is much better, but other parts houses have universal shaded pole motors in kits that can be reversed if necessary. DrTom4444

You should get about 115 volts to this motor or the same that you have at the receptacle. DrTom4444