Hi,

My 93 civic hatch died on me the other day while driving. It pretty much felt like I had run out of gas, even though I had a half tank left. So I got it towed to my house, and performed the little paper clip diagnostic test, and when I did, the check engine light came on and stayed on. When I take the paper clip out, the check engine light comes on for two seconds, the I hear a click and it goes off.

So it seems like I'm getting error code 0, which means bad ecu.

What could be the problem. I'm a complete noob so step-by-step instructions please.

Thanks a lot

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. If the K-Test indicates the ECM is bad, here's how to replace the ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post235038

Buy a remanufactured ECM for around $260, with a lifetime warranty, from O'Reilly Auto Parts. On E-Bay they go for around $120. Honda wants around $1,000, with a 1-year warranty.

Where do I locate the map sensor?

Normally, it's to the right of the fuel filter, along the firewall.

Is it on the passenger side, or driver?
I don't know where the fuel filter is.

Passenger side, just to the right of the battery. Look for the long wire and connector going to the MAP Sensor. The MAP Sensor, also, has a vacuum hose going into it.

K I just tried the k test, and it IS getting 5 v... what could the problem be... any specific fuses I should check?

Wait... first I want to know if I did it right:
I found the map snsor, unplugged the connector.. put the multimeter red wire in the right socket (+) of the map sensor, and the black wire from the multimeter to a bolt on my car.
It read 5 v

You did the K-Test properly and your ECM should be okay.

. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post252145

. Test for spark.

. Test the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, which is inside the distributor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

AutoZone can do this for free.

. Replace fuel filter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-2.html#post224689

The odds are that the problems resides in the distributor; e.g. a bad ICM or coil. If you plan on keeping the car, I would also replace the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs, and spark plug wires.

I just need something to make it run again. And I want to sell it as soon as its functioning again. Any cheap way of doing this. The thing is, I don't think there's an autozone here. I'm in Toronto. Also, the car is not starting and its in my driveway, so to take it to a shop, ill have to get it towed, which costs $$$...

Test the ICM and coil, using the procedures below:

. ICM (ignitor) Test. Characteristics of a bad igniter are no spark (dead engine) or fluctuating rpm.
1. Remove distributor cap, rotor, and leak cover.
2. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM. If there is voltage, go to step 4.
4. Turn ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no battery voltage, check the ignition coil and the WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM. If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
7. If all test are normal, replace the ICM.

. Coil Test.
1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.
2. Measure resistance (ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not with specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

Before I check those two things... could the problem be the fuel filter? If so, how do I check this?

Also... before that... wats an easy way to test for spark?

Read Section B in the Sticky.

K so when I take out the spark plug boot from the engine, I notice that it has oil on it. Is this normal?

Hey poopstar.. I have the same issue with my civic it doesn't start my check engine light keeps coming on and doesn't turn off after 2 seconds car cranks but doesn't turn over... but my question how did you do that paper clip thing with the ecu.. I also need to know how to read the codes I know 0 means bad ecu or something like that but isn't there like a manually somewhere in this forum how to check ecu? Please help thanks

JDMostwanted, perform the K-Test on your ECM.

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Txgreasemonkey,
So my no 2 spark plug has oil on it.. not sure abot the others yet.. I ahvent taken them out yet, but am waiting to get the tools to do so. But I've shone a light in there and seen that no2 spark plug is basically drenched I think.
So do you think this is what the problem is, and are the symptoms I had (car dying while driving, and cranking but not starting) normal for this problem.
Please give me any advice you can, again step-by-step.
Thanks a lot you've already helped me so much.