I am installing a sewage pump in my basement that requires a 2" plastic pipe fitted to a 4" cast iron hub. The 4"hub has a female threaded cleanout fitting in it and it is fitted with lead and oakum. The cleanout plug is made of copper and measures 3-7/8" across OD, which nothing else seems to fit. I want to use a neoprene gasket in the hub and simply go to a 4" to 2" abs reducer. What is the best way to remove the threaded female fitting and clean out the hub and prep for the neoprene gasket? That is-- what is the best way to disassemble a lead and oakum cast iron fitting and reinstall a neoprene gasket to plastic?

The best thing is to get a pvc threaded adapter and clean the threads and screw it in.

the best thing is to get a pvc threaded adapter and clean the threads and screw it in.

That's exactly what I would like to do, but it is a 4" pipe with inside threads that measure 3-7/8" and I can not find an adaptor to fit it. All 4" pipe fittings that I find are made so the male end threads into a female hub and actually measure 4-3/8". Do you know if they make a platic adaptor that has female threads that fit inside of a hubless 4" cast iron pipe? If so, where can I find one? Thanks for your help

That's exactly what I would like to do, but it is a 4" pipe with inside threads that measure 3-7/8" and I can not find an adaptor to fit it. all 4" pipe fittings that I find are made so the male end threads into a female hub and actually measure 4-3/8". Do you know if they make a platic adaptor that has female threads that fit inside of a hubless 4" cast iron pipe? If so, where can I find one? Thanks for your help

If that's the case, you are going to have to remove the entire clean out from the 4" hub.

Here's what you do:

Using a 5/16" drill bit and drill motor, drill out the lead and oakum from just over half of the circumference -- Space the holes as closely together as you can.

A word of caution -- There will be a lip on the clean out adapter at the bottom of the hub, when you hit this, one of two things is going to happen; The drill bit will snap in two, or the drill will swing to your right very abruptly, and likely as not, there will be something sharp and painful in the way when this happens.

Pry the lead and oakum out of the half you drilled out, and then tap the clean out towards the void you've created, this will make peeling the lead and oakum out of the un drilled out side much easier.

After that, its just a simple matter of installing a 4x2 rubber Tye Seal.

Good luck.

If that's the case, you are going to have to remove the entire clean out from the 4" hub.

Here's what you do:

Using a 5/16" drill bit and drill motor, drill out the lead and oakum from just over half of the circumference -- Space the holes as closely together as you can.

A word of caution -- There will be a lip on the clean out adapter at the bottom of the hub, when you hit this, one of two things is going to happen; The drill bit will snap in two, or the drill will swing to your right very abruptly, and likely as not, there will be something sharp and painful in the way when this happens.

Pry the lead and oakum out of the half you drilled out, and then tap the clean out towards the void you've created, this will make peeling the lead and oakum out of the un drilled out side much easier.

After that, its just a simple matter of installing a 4x2 rubber Tye Seal.

Good luck.

Thanks for your help, that sounds like the way to go. Am I right in assuming that a 4x2 tye seal will allow me install 2" pipe directly into the 4" hub? If so that would be ideal because space is tight and fewer fittings would be better coming out. I need to turn 90 as soon as possible and would like to install a street elbow directly into the hub. Do you know where I can find a Tye Seal online? I have never seen anything like this at any of the local plumbing supply stores here?

The best thing you can do is just cut the whole c/o out. Then you can put a 4" ABS or PVC c/o in and go from there. You will have to go rent a sawzall from TATES, or who ever. Make sure you get the right blades to cut it, otherwise you will be there all day, and you might burn out the sawzall. Then you atttach the new c/o with FURNCO couplings (rubber) and tighten down with a tourque wrench. There is your starting point

the best thing you can do is just cut the whole c/o out. then you can put a 4" ABS or PVC c/o in and go from there. you will have to go rent a sawzall from TATES, or who ever. Make sure you get the right blades to cut it, otherwise you will be there all day, and you might burn out the sawzall. then you atttach the new c/o with FURNCO couplings (rubber) and tighten down with a tourque wrench. There is your starting point

This won't work. 4" pipe only protrudes 1/4- 3/8 past lead in hub and a furnco band will only just barley grab it as is (less than half the pipe clamp is actually on the pipe). Remember this fitting is from a sewage pump and will be under pressure. I neep help finding the gaskets to install inside the hub to connect a new pipe. Even just an actuall manufacturer would help so I could have someone order one for me. Thanks.

This won't work. 4" pipe only protrudes 1/4- 3/8 past lead in hub and a furnco band will only just barley grab it as is (less than half the pipe clamp is actually on the pipe). Remember this fitting is from a sewage pump and will be under pressure. I neep help finding the gaskets to install inside the hub to connect a new pipe. Even just an actuall manufacturer would help so I could have someone order one for me. Thanks.

Sorry for not getting back to you.

The 4x2 Tye Seal can be purchased at a Fergusons (http://www.ferguson.com/) (they're nationwide, pretty much) or just about any Plumbing supply house.

If you are unable or unwilling to do what growler said, there is another option. Not nearly as pretty and professional as growler's but will work. Use a 5" clay x 3" pvc fernco. Clamp the 5" part over the 4" cast iron hub and using a 2" pipe long enough to protrude inside the cleanout, glue your 2" elbow on and clamp the 3" side directly on the 2" hub. I don't know if it actually will fit the 3" side but brainstorming here and I hope I did not 'rain out'. But you get the general idea of where this is headed.
I still think growler's idea was best if you can do it.