The sink drains down into a P-Trap and then enters a 1 1/2 inch PVC horizontal drain line that runs into the wall. Due to some blockage issues in the immediate area under the sink I'd like to run that horizontal drain line 3 feet before turning downward. Would this be workable?

Also, if this is workable, does the 3 foot horizontal run remain level or should it be biased before turning downward?

Thanks.

I don't doubt that you have blockage issues if you're configured they way you describe. On a typical kitchen sink hook up the horizontal line inside the wall terminates at a sanitary tee and a vertical vent stack. You have described a unvented "S" trap. Your question's confusing to me. Exactly what horizontal are you talking about and All drainage lines must have slope and none of them remain level. Waiting for your reply. Regards, Tom

Hi Tom -

Thanks for your reply. The P-Trap is directly below the sink. As the waste water exits the P-Trap it flows a few inches directly to the wall where it connects to an in-the-wall drain point. This in-the-wall drain point is a 3 foot horizontal run and is still part of what I believe to be part of the Trap Arm. It is my understanding that the Trap Arm must be at least 8 inches in length to avoid my P-Trap from taking on the characteristics of an S-Trap. This Trap Arm runs horizontal for 3 feet before it meets a sanitary Tee. This sanitary Tee is the downward drain/ upward vent point and [again] is located approx 3 foot from the under-the-sink P-Trap.

Thanks again.

Roger

Hi Tom -

Thanks for your reply. The P-Trap is directly below the sink. As the waste water exits the P-Trap it flows a few inches directly to the wall where it connects to an in-the-wall drain point. This in-the-wall drain point is a 3 foot horizontal run. It runs horizontal for 3 feet before it meets a sanitary Tee. This sanitary Tee is the downward drain/ upward vent point.

Roger
And you would like to do what with it? You cleared up the confusion about a "S" trap. Your si8nk is vented. I still want to know what you wish to do with the horizontal line. Do you wish to run it outside the wall? Do you just wish to replace it inside the wall? What?? Regards, Tom

Hi Tom -

My basic questions are: (1) How long can a Trap Arm be?
(2) Does a Trap Arm need to be slanted toward the Sanitary Tee?

Thanks,
Roger

My basic questions are: (1) How long can a Trap Arm be?
Code calls for not over 5 feet on a 2" drain from trap to the vent and 3 1/2 feet on a 1 1/2" drain line.

(2) Does a Trap Arm need to be slanted toward the Sanitary Tee? You bet your boots it does. For every foot of trap arm from the trap to the vent you want to drop 1/4" . All drainage MUST have slope from the fixture that's draining to the location it's draining to. Regards, Tom

Tom -

Thanks for your input. That's the info we needed. We live in a remote area in a County with no building codes but we want to build things according to proven standards.

Roger

Speedball1 -

I've finished the stub-out and the 24 inch Trap Arm, dropping the Arm a total of 1/2 inch before it connects to my sanitary Tee as you advised.

Next up will be my hot/cold water supplies under the sink. I plan to install the shut-off valves approx 15 inches from the floor and hope to avoid the usual interference with the spray hose and supply hoses. For the hot water valve, I'm going with a 2-headed version in order to accommodate both the sink supply and the dishwasher from the same line.

Having just found this forum, I didn't read your "sticky" at the start of the conversation list until today. You do a great job responding to a TON of plumbing questions and you were very helpful with your info pertaining to my kitchen sink drain dilemma. Best of luck with your personal ongoing battle. It's obvious your positive mind-set will be the best Rx available. Keep up the good work and know that you have many readers praying for your very best outcome.

Roger in Indiana

Next up will be my hot/cold water supplies under the sink. I plan to install the shut-off valves approx 15 inches from the floor and hope to avoid the usual interference with the spray hose and supply hoses. For the hot water valve, I'm going with a 2-headed version in order to accommodate both the sink supply and the dishwasher from the same line.

The supplies can be placed any where you choose. You can pick up 1/2 X 3/8 X 1/4" compression angle stop ,(see image)at any plumbing store.

Having just found this forum, I didn't read your "sticky" at the start of the conversation list until today. You do a great job responding to a TON of plumbing questions and you were very helpful with your info pertaining to my kitchen sink drain dilemma. Best of luck with your personal ongoing battle. It's obvious your positive mind-set will be the best Rx available. Keep up the good work and know that you have many readers praying for your very best outcome.
thanks for those kind words. I beat my cancer at at 80 am still alive and kicking. Thanks again, Tom