View Full Version : Attaching A Closet Flange to Concrete?
fizzlebent
Dec 1, 2007, 06:24 PM
What I have is a bathroom I'm trying to remodel, I have removed the toilet in my 1976 home and found that I have a Cast iron 4" pipe and a cast iron Closet flange thats Shot, and I might add is not attached to anything at all. Also found that the original toilet had a piece of 1/2" treated Plywood under the toilet to raise it up high enough so that they could bolt the toilet to the Closet Flange. Should I cut the Cast Iron Pipe to level with the floor and add a 4" Cast Iron Twist and Set Closet Flange? And it would seem that the floor around the pipe is busted out, so I'm not really sure that I have any Concrete to bolt to!? Any Suggestions to my puzzle would be greatly appreciated! :confused: If you would like to e-mail me with any suggestions that would be helpful or just post here. :o
[email protected]
Fizzly
plumberman
Dec 1, 2007, 06:48 PM
If you can post some pics of the problem... im not really sure what you are asking but I really want to help if I can
fizzlebent
Dec 1, 2007, 08:14 PM
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5460Plumberman,
Thanks for the Reply, maybe the Pictures can better explain my problem then I can. If you notice how high the Pipe sit above the concrete, well someone had a Piece of treated plywood under the toilet I believe to fill in under the Toilet for the pipe being so high. My O pion Only!
labman
Dec 1, 2007, 08:45 PM
Will the stool set down over the pipe without hitting it? If so, what I would do is chip the hole around it out bigger, undercutting it if you can. Drill a couple 1/4'' holes in a board spaced the same as the holes in the stool. Put the brass bolts in the holes. Fill the volume between the pipe and the surrounding concrete with a concrete patching compound. Center the board with the bolts over the hole pushing the bolts into the patching material.
speedball1
Dec 1, 2007, 11:40 PM
If I were faced wit this problem out on a call I would take a adjustable wrench and slip it over the cast iron pipe about 1/4 inch and take the heel of my hand and bump the wrench from the inside to the outside of the pipe. I would nibble off the pipe until it was level with the floor. Then I would install my Twist and Set closet flange. Good luck, Tom
plumberman
Dec 1, 2007, 11:52 PM
Try what speedball says to get it flush with the floor... however be very careful because at times that oldtimers trick (I have done this more times than I can count)can cause the cast to break off more than you want it too
fizzlebent
Dec 2, 2007, 06:56 AM
Ok, sounds like a plan, what about using a saw zaw to cut the pipe? What about getting the new Closet Flange anchored to the Concrete? The Concrete is busted out around the pipe maybe 3/4" all the way around? I feel that the toilet should be anchored as to not move around on the floor. The reason I say this, is because when I removed the toilet the original flange was not attached to anything.
speedball1
Dec 2, 2007, 07:48 AM
Ok, sounds like a plan, what about using a saw zaw to cut the pipe? What about getting the new Closet Flange anchored to the Concrete? The Concrete is busted out around the pipe maybe 3/4" all the way around? I feel that the toilet should be anchored as to not move around on the floor. The reason I say this, is because when I removed the toilet the original flange was not attached to anything.
A Saws-All with a metal blade will work if you're a little leery of using a wrench. Bring extra blades as cast iron's very hard abd dense. Ifthe Closet flange expands so that it secures the bowl then you shouldn't have to anchor it to the floor. But if it concerns you simply fill the hole with cement level with the floor and Tap-Con screw the flange to the cement after it sets up. Good luck, Tom
fizzlebent
Dec 2, 2007, 04:13 PM
Thank you Speedball1 and Plumberman for your help, as you can see It helped me to complete my task. Just needed your Expertise advice as to how to continue. Thanks again!
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speedball1
Dec 2, 2007, 04:17 PM
Looks good to me. Regards, Tom