I have had trouble with rust forming around the bottom of my white porcelain sink where the drain plate is from the old pop-up assembly. I am about to replace it. Would it be best to use a chrome-plated plastic one now or a brass one to keep rust from forming again?

I have had trouble with rust forming around the bottom of my white porcelain sink where the drain plate is from the old pop-up assembly. I am about to replace it. Would it be best to use a chrome-plated plastic one now or a brass one to keep rust from forming again?
A chrome pop-up assembly is chrome over a brass body. Since the chrome surface can flake off the plastic in time I would Use the chrome over brass one. Good luck, Tom

Which one is less likely to produce the rust effect around it over time?

Which one is less likely to produce the rust effect around it over time?
Neither one! Brass, plastic and chrome don't rust. You get rust from well water with a high iron oxide content or from the hot water in a water heater that has been poorly maintained. You do flush your heater out on a regular schedule don't you? No? Then let me show you how.
For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by flushing on a regular schedule. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back togather the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps, Tom

How do I connect the tailpiece to the next pipe down? There doesn't appear to be any threads to tighten it in to the next piece.

How do I connect the tailpiece to the next pipe down? There doesn't appear to be any threads to tighten it in to the next piece.
The tail piece connects to the trap raiser through a compression fitting. Good luck, Tom

What is a compression fitting and trap raiser?

Which one is less likely to produce the rust effect around it over time?

Neither and both.

If your sink is enameled steel, then the rust is likely migrating under the enamel from the stamped edge of the drain hole.

Generally, when this happens, replacement of the sink (with a vitreous china or enameled cast iron one) is your best and only option.

The sink is porcelain.

What is a compression fitting and trap raiser?

OK you have two real plumbers helping you here and I think they are both offline now. The compression fitting is the big nut on the drain pipe below the sink. That nut is fitted on one pipe and can't slide off, it threads onto the next part of the trap and there is a fairly thick plastic ring or washer that is catured under the nut. That's the compression fitting. The trap riser is the verticle part of the pipe before the big bend that makes the trap.

What is a compression fitting and trap raiser?

I still don't understand how to connect the tailpiece to the trap raiser pipe. There is no threads and the "compression fitting" does not hold them together securely for me. Do you have any graphics to assist?

What is a compression fitting and trap raiser?
A trap raiser is the pipe that sticks up from the trap that a fixture drain connects to.
A compression fitting, (see image) is a fitting that uses a nut and a gasket that compresses against the pipe when tightened. This forms a watertight joint and connection.

the "compression fitting" does not hold them together securely for me. Not knowing the size of the trap and raiser is making me have to guess. Perhaps you have a 2" raiser and compression nut with a 2" or 1 1/2" plastic gasket. This is the wrong gasket. You need a 2 X 1 1/4"gasket for that compression nut. That will make the connection between trap raiser and lavatory pop-up. To help you morfe I need the size of the trap raiser and the size of the compressiuon gasket. Back to you, Tom

Please see the attached photos of the project. You can see the tailpiece which has no threads. That is what I'm trying to figure out, how to secure it to the next pipe down which then threads in to the J pipe.

Looks like the photos are too large. Do you have an email address that I can send them to?

Go back and read my post. A compression fitting connects the unthreaded tailpiece to the trap raiser. What part of this gives you a problem? There is no other way. Regards, Tom

I don't understand the compression fitting. Is it just a nut with a plastic washer? The pipes are 1 and 1/4" in diameter. If I could send you a photo of what I have perhaps then you could help me better.

I don't understand the compression fitting. Is it just a nut with a plastic washer? The pipes are 1 and 1/4" in diameter. If I could send you a photo of what I have perhaps then you could help me better.
Nah! Let me send YOU a picture. Why are we having so much trouble on such a simple operation? What confuses you? The gasket? If you have a 1 1/2" trap, raiser and compression fitting with a 1 1/2" gasket that is too loose on your 1 1/4" tailpiece simply get a 1 1/2 X 1 1/4" gasket to put in the compression fitting and the job's done. One more time. You have a pop-up drain with a unthreaded tailpiece, (see image) you prime and glue a compression fitting ,(see image) on the trap raiser and simply connect the two. If the gasket's too loose then get one the fits both the nut and the tailpiece. Regards and good luck, Tom

I used the one that came in the packaging but it does not feel snug enough.

Double check that package, they sometimes come with two plastic compression rings, one for 1.5 and another for 1.25" pipes. You may be using the wrong ring. When you slide the ring onto the tail piece it should be slidable but give some resistance, it is snug.

They are both the same size. They are slideable but not snug. Please advise.

What do you mean by "prime and glue"?

Does the ring have any wiggle to it once it is on the pipe? If it does it is not the correct ring, they must be snug. Do you still have the packaging it came in, if so, what does it tell us?

We did a quick exchange there and I got confused. Who talked about prime and glue, Speedball1, Iamgrowler or Ballengerb1?

Instructions for installing a new lavatory waste
The first part of the waste is connected as per instructions that came with it, starting with the piece that comes through the drain hole in the lavatory bowl. The flange piece that sits on top of the hole needs plumbers putty to seal the flange. The threads on the shaft need pipe thread compound so water does not seep down the threads through the large rubber gasket that connects to the bottom of the bowl with the bevel part touching the bowl. The bottom nut is then snugged down firmly but not so hard as to break the flange or the bowl. The plunger rod is inserted in the hole in the back of the faucet and connected via the additional parts provided to connect to the back of the lavatory waste to operate the drain plunger. The 1 1/4" threaded tailpiece is then made ready by applying pipe thread compound on the threads and hand threaded inside the bottom of the lavatory waste assembly. from here you will connect the trap, either directly is it is high enough or by way of an extension pipe. the trap and extension pipe has an enlarged portion at the end to receive the 1 1/4" tailpiece from the lavatory waste assembly. The top of this enlarged portion has threads to receive a nut which is called a slip joint nut. A beveled plastic or square cut rubber washer which is called a slip joint washer is installed under the nut. On the plastic washer the flat side touches the nut. This nut is tightened enough that it compresses the washer and firmly holds the joint from leaking or slipping. This is called a slip joint or a slip joint connection. The trap is designed to hold about 2 to 4 inches of water which keeps sewer odor from entering the home. The pipe from the trap goes into the wall at a gradual slope and should be a slip joint there or it could be a soldered [copper with melted lead/tin] joint or threaded or a fernco [rubber sleeve with hose clamps].

We did a quick exchange there and I got confused. Who talked about prime and glue, Speedball1, Iamgrowler or Ballengerb1?

Not me -- I'm every bit as befuddled as you are.

Y'know, some folks should just padlock their tool kits, throw away the key and put a reliable Plumber on their speed dial.

Growler you got me rolling on the floor. Had that though a few times today. Anyone else want to join the befuddled team, we got room.

I'm not amused gentlemen. Speedball1 is the person who mentioned "prime and glue"...

I'm not amused gentlemen.

Right.


Speedball1 is the person who mentioned "prime and glue"...


Speedball (as did Ballenger B) also gave you a very concise step by step 'primer', including illustrations, describing how to accomplish the task.

Frankly, I'm baffled by your continued confusion.

This whole situation sounds like an individual 'playing' the guys trying to help. We are honestly trying to help you and if you are unable to garnish and apply the information given you should never own tools. I personally will not be further responding to this string.

It's not a matter of confusion, it's a matter of your advice not working as you say it will. I need to know what speedball1 meant by "prime and glue". I am not a plumber like you folks are and I do not appreciate the critical remarks. I accomplish plenty of projects with tools and do not need your cocky remarks. My specialty is high tech sales and I would certainly never be critical of those who are not as educated as I am when asking for help. Some of your remarks are simply uncalled for. If you would like to help then help, otherwise don't provide your critical responses. Anybody can do that.

I need to know what speedball1 meant by "prime and glue".
To join, or make a joint, between two pieces of PVC you must first paint the parts with PVC primer to remove the glaze. Next you paint the joints with glue to weld them together. Are we past the connection between the trap raiser and the tailpiece? Do you understand what you'll need to complete the connection? Regards, Tom

Speedball, thanks for your kind response. The tailpiece and "raiser" (6" connector pipe) is brass and they came with "slip joint" parts. The problem is that when using these parts the tailpiece is not snug on the 6" connector pipe below it.

Speedball, thanks for your kind response. The tailpiece and "raiser" (6" connector pipe) is brass and they came with "slip joint" parts. The problem is that when using these parts the tailpiece is not snug on the 6" connector pipe below it.
And it be if you changed the compression nut to a 1 1/2 X1 1/4" compression nut with a 1 1/4" gasket.
Sorry, I was under the impression that you were working with PVC. My apologies! Tom

Is a compression nut and gasket the same as a slip joint assembly?

Is a compression nut and gasket the same as a slip joint assembly?
Yes. The compression nut compresses the gasket against the tailpiece and this makes a water tight connection. Regards, tom

So I presume that the ones that were enclosed in the packaging are of poor quality and that is why they are not snug even though they state that they are for a 1 and 1/4" pipe? I guess I need to try and buy some other one(s)?

Now I need some information. You say the trap's metal, is it 1 1/2 or 1 1/4"?
Regards, Tom