I took the cover off and noticed the red light was blinking
2 times is there any way I can fix this myself or do I need to call someone

There should be some sort of code sheet that tells you what the amount of blinks mean. Take a look at the inside of a paneling or the manual itself.

XenoSapien

Yes it says the pressure switch is open, should it be closed

For starters check your exhaust and intake pipes for any obstruction.
Next, your pressure switches have rubber tubing going to them. For starters disconnect the tubing and blow and suck into them. You should hear a clicking from the switch. They may be stuck and this is a starting point.

Ok I did that, It did click once. It is a fairly new furnace
Aprox 3 years old. From Nordyne

Is the warranty active or void?

XenoSapien

Is the inducer coming on? It is the small blower near the pressure switch. The purpose of the pressure switch is to keep the furnace from firing if the inducer isn't running. See https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heating-air-conditioning/heating-cooling-maintenance-repair-troubleshooting-frequently-asked-questions-58313.html Under sequence of operations it describe each step the furnace goes through on start up.

If the inducer is running and you get the open pressure switch code, the switch maybe bad.

The warranty ran out last year.. and No the inducer
Or blower does not come on Is there any way to tell
If the pressure switch is bad..

OK, you need to see why the inducer isn't running. Could be a bad relay on the control board, hard to identify, and expensive to replace. Try jumpering power to the inducer motor. If it runs, likely the board is bad. If not, the motor or connections are bad.

Could you tell me how I would do that..
Sorry, not very smart when it comes to furnaces
But I appreciate all your help. I am finally starting to understand
Some of this

To do simple checks like this you do need some tools. A test light, a meter, or a voltage detector might be the best place to start with. I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. You do not have to open up housings and expose electrical contacts. You are looking at where your hand is, not where the meter is. Most people are capable of doing repairs and will get it going and not get hurt if they use a little sense. The voltage detector makes it even easier.

Have you browsed through the sticky enough to understand where the inducer is? They are hidden inside the vent. Some of them have a black wheel on the outside that turns when it is running. You should be able to follow the wires from it back to the control board. With the voltage detector I suggest, with the thermostat set for heat, and the cover off, hold in the door switch while probing the wires that run to the inducer. If you don't have voltage, try wiggling the plug on the board a little. If you still don't have voltage, likely the board is bad. If you have voltage, likely the motor is bad.

With a volt meter, you can check the contacts on the board, where the inducer plugs in, for 120 volts

I will do that. Thank you very much for
All your help. I will let you know what I find out

I own a Payne (18 yrs old -- made by Carrier and Day/Night Co.) Heat/AC rooftop mount unit. I have done most of the maintenance on it over the years, including replacing defective parts. The AC works fine as does the blower. The heat unit started acting up recently. The unit would fire up and then sometimes it wouldn't. When the flame did not start, I tapped on the intake pipe and gas manifold and then it would fire up. Now, it won't fire up at all. I get the clicking for the pilot start, but am not getting any gas to the burners (they will not ignite). Gas is getting into the "valve" but not getting to the pilot or manifold. Any ideas?? Please help
Thanks much.
Brian

How much is a typical control board... do I have to order or I can buy a board at Lowe's or Home depot?

coldniowa----
First of all, you need a voltmeter. You can get one for your purposes for less than $10.00. If no voltmeter, you should have 2 wires connecting to your inducer motor. Purchase or make up a jumper wire with small alligator clips on both ends. Turn on unit and locate a hot wire. Connect jumper wire to a hot wire and then to terminal on inducer motor to supply power. Make sure you hook up another wire to a good ground (bare metal) on other terminal of inducer motor. If still no power, and you are sure you have done these steps, check the thermal limit switch. It's on the blower cage that turns, and should have a reset button. Hope this helps.

toni11 ----
How much is a typical control board... do I have to order or I can buy a board at Lowe's or Home depot?

toni11----
Unfortunately, for the majority of parts, a non-hvac (Heat.-Vent.-AirCond.) person cannot purchase parts for themselves. The parts are not available at hardware stores --- only at local suppliers who sell to hvac workers and companies. The reason for this is the fact that too many people are not smart when it comes to these systems, and the supplier does not want to have a liability issue if a person blows or burns up their house.