Hi,

We are remodeling our bathroom and the toilet needed to be moved down about two feet along the same wall from its old location. The plumber has placed it so that the back of the toilet will not sit against the wall, but out from the wall, leaving a gap of about two inches between the wall and the back of the toilet. He told my husband that this is because NC building codes require that the center of the toilet flange be a minimum of 15 inches from a finished wall. Can this be true? I have never seen a residential toilet that did not sit flush back against the wall.

Thanks for any help,
Jen
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Hi tom,

Thanks for replying to my question. Can you tell me more about the offset flange?

Thanks again,
Jennifer

Hi,

We are remodeling our bathroom and the toilet needed to be moved down about two feet along the same wall from its old location. The plumber has placed it so that the back of the toilet will not sit against the wall, but out from the wall, leaving a gap of about two inches between the wall and the back of the toilet. He told my husband that this is because NC building codes require that the center of the toilet flange be a minimum of 15 inches from a finished wall. Can this be true? I have never seen a residential toilet that did not sit flush back against the wall.

Thanks for any help,
Jen

The fifteen inch clearance requirement is from side to side, not front to back -- 15" left and right of the centerline of the closet flange.

Was there a framing member below the floor that prevented him from roughing it in the correct distance from the back wall (12-3/4" from the back wall to the centerline of the closet flange is typical) or is he just an idiot?

All is not lost, though, TOTO sells a one piece WC that will accommodate a 15" rough-in. When ordering the toilet, you will need to specify a 15" rough-in floor flange, though.

Growler gave you one option. However, Toto's a bit pricey. Let me give you a less expensive way to get that toilet back against the wall. They make offset closet flanges for just your situation. If you're interested click on back and I'll put up a link and a image. Regards, Tom

Hey Jen,

Off set flanges,(see image) are used when a toilet has to be moved a short distance and moving the rough in is just too much hassle. They replace the flange that you now have and perform the same function. If you would like to see a selection I will have to know what material your drainage pipes are made of. As a rule offset flanges are used to correct mistakes. As with any plumbing installation the very best way is to do it right the first time.
Have great week end, Tom,

I delibrately set my flange 13" off the wall to generate a 1" gap between the tank and te wall. I can't stand it when they are tight (used a toilet that needs 12")

To each their own

I'm assuming this is a personal preference for your own home, and that you aren't actively out there Plumbing outside of normal practices and conventions for paying customers, right?

I'm assuming this is a personal preference for your own home, and that you aren't actively out there Plumbing outside of normal practices and conventions for paying customers, right?

You are correct in your assumptions. 1" difference invokes that type of sarcastic response out of you. Interesting. You live up to your nick.

you are correct in your assumptions. 1" difference invokes that type of sarcastic response out of you. Interesting. You live up to your nick.

No sarcasm intended.

It was something that came up recently with a new employee and an angry homeowner.

Fortunately it was caught before the floor was tiled and we were able to correct it.

More than anything else, I was just trying to gauge how commonplace the practice was, that's all.

I delibrately set my flange 13" off the wall to generate a 1" gap between the tank and te wall. I can't stand it when they are tight (used a toilet that needs 12")to each their own

Ahh! But growler has a point. There's a reason for the 12 inch rough in. We leave just a tad of give in a tank when bwe install it. This allows the tank to give a bit when you lean back on it. If the tank couldn't give and was tight against the bowl it would put a strain on the tank bolts and crack the tank. The wall will stop the tank before it can move back enough to put a strain on the tank bolts. Having too much play behind the tank would allow the tank to tilt back far enough to break the bolts right out of the china tank. Now this may never happen, but it could and that's why we take steps,( the 12" rough) to see that it don't. Hey! I've shown you mine, now you show me yours. What's your reason for keeping it away from the safety of the wall? And don't mind growler. He's a top grade mechanic but like all canines his bark is worse then his bite. Regards, Tom

. . . .but like all canines his bark is worse then his bite.

>hisses and spits<

That's 'feline' to you, Bub.:D

I'm assuming this is a personal preference for your own home, and that you aren't actively out there Plumbing outside of normal practices and conventions for paying customers, right?

Just to give an insight into this - when my husband called the plumbing company the day after this happened, the second guy who had been working on our job actually said that it's up to the customer - some prefer the tank one inch from the wall, some two inches.. . Oh, puh-lease. What a bunch of baloney. There was no mention of codes this time, just a whole load of CYA.

As I page through this lovely book on bathroom design I am holding in my hands this moment, lo and behold, EVERY SINGLE TOILET sits back against a wall.

Also, we measured and found that we only needed a 14" rough-in to fill the gap, so we went to the plumbing supply to order one. Interestingly, they are two-three weeks back-ordered. Is this due to lots of framing being in the way of the normal 12" rough-in, or a bunch of moron plumbers roaming the planet? (Present company excepted, natch.)

Far be it from me to say, but I myself am something of a moron when it comes to construction issues, and yet I seem already to be more fluent with the code than the very expensive guys who did my plumbing job.

Thanks to all here for the help.
Jensie

Also, we measured and found that we only needed a 14" rough-in to fill the gap, so we went to the plumbing supply to order one. Interestingly, they are two-three weeks back-ordered. Is this due to lots of framing being in the way of the normal 12" rough-in, or a bunch of moron plumbers roaming the planet?

Actually, a 14" rough-in is a rarity, which would explain the three week wait.

Manufacturers shut down their lines and re-tool periodically to fulfill backlogs of special orders.

Believe it or not, you're actually quite lucky, some waits can be as long as two months.

N case you missed it the first time here's what you can tell the next plumber that attempts to blow smoke up your skirt about keeping that toilet tank away from the wall.
"There's a reason for the 12 inch rough in. We leave just a tad of give in a tank when bwe install it. This allows the tank to give a bit when you lean back on it. If the tank couldn't give and was tight against the bowl it would put a strain on the tank bolts and crack the tank. the wall will stop the tank before it can move back enough to put a strain on the tank bolts. Having too much play behind the tank would allow the tank to tilt back far enough to break the bolts right out of the china tank. Now this may never happen, but it could and that's why we take steps,( the 12" rough) to see that it don't". Good luck, Tom

Then u shouldn't pay him cause that is a lie if it was done using the right measurements that wouldn't happen

Viunce,
You're responding to a three year old thread, Notice the date in the upper left hand corner. Regards, Tom