:confused: I have a house that was built back in the 50's and I want to add a complete full bath in the basement. The basement has been finished there was a wet bar in the area I want to put the bathroom. I hope you are ready I have a lot of questions.

THere is a PVC pipe coming up from the concrete that was not attachted to the wet bar but it was right underneath the sink. DO you have any idea what this is? It is about two inches wide and stickes out about 3 inches from the cement.

I want a separate jacuzzi tub and shower, with two sinks and a toilet. I know I have to cut the concrete and tie it into the exsiting plumbing from the main floor. I got 3 inch PVC piping and I was told I woul also need to get sand when I cover the piping with concrete is that correct? I was also told that I need to have everything framed out before I cut the concrete? I also have in my basment sump pumps and floor drains. I was told by a plummer before to make an initial cut from the exsiting piping to see if that piping is in the way. What should I do first?

I also got L copper piping and was told that I should have gotten M? I got the copper Tees, 45's, and 90's. I also have shut of valves for both sinks, shower, toilet, and the tub. I want the best for this bathroom but I also do not want to spend over 5000.00 on it.

I was planing on having someone help me with this and now they want double the money. I am not helpless just clueless since I have never done this before.

Cheri AKA clueless

I

Type M is a thin walled pipe.
Copper pipe is available in three basic types: Type M is thin-walled, Type L is medium-walled and Type K is thick-walled. In most cases, Type L is good for home use. Check your city code to determine which type of pipe is required for the work you're planning.

You may ask, what does thickness of the pipe do for my project? Well, it's basically
The PSI (pressure) you are intending to use the pipe with. The higher the pressue,
The thicker the pipe wall needs to be. For example, for water pipes that
Feeds your faucets, and other similar fixtures, I would use the L type. For
Heating system with forced hot water, I think building code might accept the M type.
Again, check with your building code in your town, and apply & obtain plumbing and
Other permits from your town.

My city code is M but I got the better so I don't have to worry about anything. THan kyou for your quick response.

THere is a PVC pipe coming up from the concrete that was not attachted to the wet bar but it was right underneath the sink. DO you have any idea what this is? It is about two inches wide and stickes out about 3 inches from the cement.
If the wet bar was a add -on after the house was built the 2" stub up sounds like it was roughed in to pick up a shower.

I was told I woul also need to get sand when I cover the piping with concrete is that correct? As a rule we cover our patches with the dirt out of the trench with plastic on top.

I was also told that I need to have everything framed out before I cut the concrete Not so! While the walls must be established and laid out to ascertain the fixture placement you do not have to frame them in.

I was told by a plummer before to make an initial cut from the exsiting piping to see if that piping is in the way. What should I do first?

A sharp plumber can take a look at your stack, floor drain, fixtures and the sewer outlet to the street and be able to tell you the approximate location of the pipes under the cement. If not cut in a lateral exploratory trench to locate the main and its direction.

I also got L copper piping and was told that I should have gotten M? A Plumber told you that? Our local codes forbid using type "M" copper for any new house systems, remodel or repair. Abcsalem explained it in depth. I'm glad you went with type "L".

I want the best for this bathroom but I also do not want to spend over 5000.00 on it.
I was planing on having someone help me with this and now they want double the money. I am not helpless just clueless since I have never done this before.
OK! I take it by your nick,(Cheri) That I'm dealing with a woman with no plumbing skills who wishes to hold the cost down. While this makes it difficult it doesn't make it imposable. If you can get a handy man to help we can help you through this. BUT! Make no mistake. This is major surgery. It will be dirty, dusty and messy plus there will be problems that neither one of us figured on. If you're really serious about this and want our help we will need a drawing of the basement showing the measurements. The location of the stack and main, the direction of flow out the house and the fixture placement. From that we will be able to make a material list and tell you where to make your cuts.
Let me show you how it should go down. Most bathroom groups are roughed in like this.
Toilet connects to sewer main or the stack vent. Lavatory connects to toilet drain and runs a vent off the top the stubout tee out the roof or revents back into a dry vent in the attic.. The toilet wet vents through the lavatory vent and the tub/shower connects to the lavatory drain and is wet vented by it. This is a normal rough in and is acceptable both by local and state codes and also The Standard Plumbing Code Book in 90 percent of the country. Check your local codes.to make sure you're not in the excluded 10 percent.. The vent off the lavatory may be run out the roof or revented back into a dry vent in the attic or if you're reventing back into a fixtures dry vent you must make your connection at least 6 inches over that fixtures flood rim.

It's up to you if all this hassle is worth a basement bathroom. Cheers, Tom

Speedball1 I will have everything ready for you tomorrow or Monday with exact measureements. I have a rough draft of everything but not exact measurements. THe bathroom is going to be 10X11.

Here is the list of items I have. I will lattach the list and the drawing of the bathroom. The wall with the tub is 10'

Can you tell me how to attacht things to this website?

Yes I am a woman.

Cheri:confused:

Can you please answer me at [email protected]