We have a GE frost-free side by side refrigerator with ice maker. It's 5 years old but for the past year+ we've been having problems with the freezer building up frost around the inside, and then the refrigerator doesn't get cold. I have to unplug everything, take the shelves out of the freezer and then blow-dry it sometimes twice a month, and then the refrigerator gets cold again. I've replaced the coils which I thought made it work, but only temporarily because it started doing it again a few months later. I saw a response to someone with a similar problem stating that the defrost element or defrost thermostat was probably faulty. Is that the same thing as the coil? If so, what would cause it to go out again so quickly? The seals around both the freezer and the fridge side are fine, so that can't be what's causing the problem. I've removed any dust buildup both under and on the back of the fridge. I'm afraid to replace the coil again because I'm not sure what keeps causing it to go bad.

The Defrost system consists of a defrost timer a defrost limit and a heater. On newer GE's the defrost cycle is controlled by the motherboard on the back. If you could supply the model number I could tell which system you have and how to solve your problem.

The model number is GSS22KGMC WW. I appreciate any advice you can give!

This link will provide you with the testing instructions at the board. You will see it has diagnostics for the touch pad temperature control unit but ignore them. The board tests are the same and that is the part if this manual you will need to perform the diagnostics.

Let me know if you need more help
http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/xmb_ge_arctica_sxs.pdf

We have a GE frost-free side by side refrigerator with ice maker. we've been having problems with the freezer building up frost around the inside, and then the refrigerator doesn't get cold. I have to unplug everything, take the shelves out of the freezer and then blow-dry it sometimes twice a month, and then the refrigerator gets cold again. I've replaced the coils which I thought made it work, but only temporarily because it started doing it again a few months later. I saw a response to someone with a similar problem stating that the defrost element or defrost thermostat was probably faulty. Is that the same thing as the coil? If so, what would cause it to go out again so quickly? The seals around both the freezer and the fridge side are fine, so that can't be what's causing the problem. I've removed any dust buildup both under and on the back of the fridge. I'm afraid to replace the coil again because I'm not sure what keeps causing it to go bad.

Than you bill

Hey I am having the same problem, doing the same as you have with the blow dryer and all, how did you solve this problem?

Thanks
[email protected]

I'm having the same problem you are, I have don't the same things you have to fix the problem, but it keeps freezing up, how did you solve the problem?

I'm having the same problem. Fridge/Freezer is not cooling enough. The bottom appears cooler than the top. Bottom half of the freezer on my side by side GE is frosted in the back. The guy is replacing the heater right now (part WR51X10101). I hope it works.

I just recently purchased a GE side by side and am now having the same problem. I have to defrost the freezer 2 times per week and the thing is only set on 3! The motor runs constantly, unless you open the doors. Is that normal? Please help I cannot afford to keep throwing away my food.

This is not normal. You need to replace the defrosting element to an upgraded double element. Your single defrosting element must be burnt out. The defrosting system is not working anymore.

This link will provide you with the testing instructions at the board. You will see it has diagnostics for the touch pad temperature control unit but ignore them. The board tests are the same and that is the part if this manual you will need to perform the diagnostics.

let me know if you need more help
http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/xmb_ge_arctica_sxs.pdf

=
good thought I know what you mean even though the site is unavailable. Running it in the diagnostics will allow you to see the heater, fans, and of course the compressor. Blinking LED will state the mode or any faults and the manual should have a trouble shooters guide. Sometimes solid state boards need to be reset kind of like the sensors in your car for gauging fuel injection. The boards are often considered new critical technology and the other mechanical items are able to be in the humid conditions of a refrigerator. At any rate, also check the drain line for blockage. I'm Blue.

Having the same problem with my GE Profile side by side.

Has anybody had success in fixing the problem and how?

The Defrost system consists of a defrost timer a defrost limit and a heater. On newer GE's the defrost cycle is controlled by the motherboard on the back. If you could supply the model number I could tell which system you have and how to solve your problem.

Model frs22zrh

My frigidare side by side freezing up model frs22zrh

OK I have a GSH25JFXCC ASIS. I bought it new in 2009 (3 years old) and the freezer is cold, The refer is just on the low side of luke warm. The port at the top is open, although I had to clean out the frost that has developed. There doesn't seem to be any air flowing up from the fan that I can feel. I hear the fan running.. .

I don't know anything about a heating element.
ANY help you can send my way will be appreciated.
bdnwtkfg at wans dot net

Thanks
David

Model # gss22kgmd-cc freezes up on frezzer side

Freezer freezes up on freezers side modelgss22kgmd-cc

TURNS OUT:
I had to remove the panel at the interior side of the freezer, and expose the coils. They were completely iced over. I took a heat gun - being VERY careful NOT to get too close OR get the coils too hot, and melted the ice. This took about 2 hours. I re-assembled the interior and it has been working fine since.

The ice build up on the coils was preventing the air from the fan from flowing over the coils and the cold air making its way into the refer section.

NOTE: There is a port at the top of the freezer (behind the light on the refer side) that can get frosted over. You will need to check this 1st.

I also turned down the control from 9 to 6 and its working just fine as of now.. .
(may 9, 2012)

I purchase mind in 2006 and have the same problem with freezing ice above the ice dispenser on the door inside of the freezer side and now it does not get cold at all on both the freezer side and fridge side. I have replaced the relay and controller parts and only had the refrigerator for 6 yrs and I no it should not go out that fast. We pay too much money and GE need to take care of this free of charge for defective products. What do you think?

We have replaced the both element's in the freezer of our side by side so now the bottom element that keep's the refigerator cold is blowen again what could be causeing that to go out so quickly? After buying one just 3 month's ago!

I am having same problem but we noticed the flap that allows the cool air on the fridge side is not opening could this be the problem seeing the fridge side keeps calling for more cold air, would that make the freezer freeze up?

I have the same fridge model number, GSS22KGMCWW. I've replaced the mother board, defrost heater, defrost thermostat, fresh food temp sensor and checked the evaporator thermistor but the fridge is still frosting up every two weeks. Any suggestions?

Will send another post with specific model -- but generally we had a GE frost-free side by side -- on freezer side in back slightly below middle -- starts frosting up and then fridge become warm -- unplug, allow to defrost and then turn back on -- depending on weather conditions -- will last from about three to five weeks -- is it worth repairing? -- service calls are not cheap

Your problem is either in the defrost system or the fan is bad; more than likely it's the defrost system. If it is a normal type it has a defrost timer which turns off the fan in freezer and the compressor and energizes the defrost heater until the terminator t-stat turns it off or the timer turns it off, whichever one is first. It's a very straightforward system that is easy to work on. The electronic ones are totally different, but normally when they go bad only the heater and terminator needs to be replaced. Just remove the cover to coils in freezer to access heater and terminator. Don't forget to clean the coils under unit, too. Many times the timer is under the unit near the coils or near the t-stat in the refrigerator section. Let unit thoroughly defrost before working on it. After removing the cover to coils you will see wires leading to a heater attached to the coils. On a side-by-side the heater is a glass rod with an element inside that you can see if it is bad; on a freezer on top model it is aluminum and wrapped around the coil that will burn apart often. There is a defrost t-stat attached by wire to one side of the heater and clipped onto the coils. It is round and has two wires, one to the heater and one to the power from defrost timer. With refrigerator unplugged turn timer until you hear it click and stop. Have wires unplugged to defrost heater and defrost t-stat and get the plug and the wire supplying power to heater. Put meter on ohms and put one lead on wire supplying power to heater and one to plug prong and if timer is good you will read about zero on both prongs – one to each wire supplying heater power. Then put one lead on each side of heater and if you have no continuity you need a new heater. Replace heater and terminator together and be very careful when replacing it, especially on the freezer on top model because if you bend the wrong thing you will break one of the delicate capillary tubes and lose all of the Freon which will ruin the unit. If the timer is bad you will need to replace it with one that matches. You can test it before you take anything apart by advancing the timer until the refrigerator turns off. Then see if the heater defrosts the unit and then brings the unit back on; if it does not then all you may need is a new timer, but the parts are cheap, so if you need to replace the heater and terminator you should replace the timer and keep the old one for an emergency. The back side of the timer has a plastic one-way screw that advances the timer.. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21ybfsGYmjL._SL500_AA300_.jpghttp://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31zsr1xkr8L._SL500_AA300_.jpghttp://cdn.appliancepartspros.com/images/product/cache/whirlpool-refrigerator-defrost-timer-482493-ap3110896_01_l.jpg

I have the same fridge model number, GSS22KGMCWW. I've replaced the mother board, defrost heater, defrost thermostat, fresh food temp sensor and checked the evaporator thermistor but the fridge is still frosting up every two weeks. Any suggestions?
You need to get a meter and learn how to use it. You cannot fix appliances that way any more. Look at these: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/How%20to%20use%20Test%20Equipment%20Service%20Manu al.pdf
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/GE_Profile_Side_by_Side_refrig.pdf

I also have a black G E side by side frost free with ice/water in door, and it TOO constantly freezes up on inside of freezer, cause fridge not to get too cold. I HAVE already replaced the mother board and defroster switch with NEW ones! Still the problem continues! I only run each side on number 5 as recommened. What in the world is wrong with this thing? What else could I possible have to replace? All door seals are tight and good too, and all dust has been cleaned from everything. What now?

You only needed to replace the defrost heater which is between $20-50. I bet I could find the problem is a minute or two with a meter. Never, never replace a part unless you have tested it first, guessing is not testing. The only problem seen with most GE refrigerators is a faulty seal on freezer door. To correct the problem you have to remove the door and lay it flat in the sun and remove all screws around outside and inside openings, then remove inner liner and clean around all edges and let stay in sun all day to dry well. Then seal around edges with clear GE Silicone caulk. Make sure you have the good stuff that smells like acetic acid. Put it all back together and seal any air leaks in that door.