The HP is no more than 3 or 3.5. It has a horizontal shaft and a diaphram carb,

I had problems with the carb flooding so I rebuilt the carb. The gas tank is slightly rusty inside. I managed to get the engine running smoothly and put it in the shed. About 2 weeks later, it started right away.

Now it's time to work on it some more. I replaced a drive shear pin, tightened the belt, tightened the chain (the cause of the shear) and adjusted the engagement rod and painted a chain/belt guard. I also replaced the fuel line and added a 1/4 turn fuel line tap shutoff. The engine was tilted about 45 degress for a few hours.

I tried to start it again with and without carb cleaner as starting fluid and it might run for 10-15 seconds. It decided to flood again. Again, it ran for 10-15 sec.

When it leaks, it leaks around the diaphram seal. I didn't use and gasket sealer. If it should be sealed, what is the recommended stuff. It may also leak at the primer bulb connection on the diaphram. I believe it doesn't matter, because I think this side should be at atmospheric pressure.

I know spark is good and compression is good.

I took out the plug and am letting it sit?

Questions:
1) Is it supposed to leak around the diaphram when it floods?
_____ Should I use some type of gasket sealer on the diaphrem? Edge?
______ If so, what?

2) Is it supposed to leak around the primer port on the carb when it floods?

________If no, I would need another cover for the bottom of the diaphram.
3) Should I add a fuel line filter?

________If so, suggest a model with 1/4" hose barbs
4) Do you think it will start in a few days after it drys out?

5) Should I consider replacing the tank?

KISS

Well anytime you introduce more air than what is required, or in a place on the carb where it is not intended, you are making a mistake. Go back and purchase the new gaskets, primer bulb, and diaphrams as needed.

The gaskets in the carb are new. Carb was rebuilt Before and after rebuild -- same problem.

I ordered a new plastic tank. I got a few gas line filters. I should have it in a few days.

Of course, if forgot about the rusty tank.

I guess it was a trick question?

Since I knew the history that the carb has never been re-built, that's where I started. My late father loved to tinker and this was a donated snow blower. So far, it hasn't been too bad.

0) Find model of engine, get diagram, since nameplate is missing.
1) Clean it up, initial diagnosis, carb rebuild kit.
2) Paint rope starter
3) Get new rope and have installed $20. (not my thing)
4) New gas line, 1/4 turn shut off, fuel filter, and clamps about $18
5) Carb rebuild kit and rebuild carb about $13
6) Paint belt guard
7) Plastic gas tank - about $16 (waiting)
8) Put Bellville washer on the right way to fix drive linkage
9) Replace shear pin in drive assy - about $0.75 (loose chain broke it)
10) Tighten chain
11) Tighten belts
11) Need a split pin on the wheel (Currently using cotter pin)
12) Need to lubercate blades with wax

Still things to do:
1) Get it to run and not flood (gas tank debris - hopefully)
2) Sand and paint some areas
3) Replace somewhat stripped oil filler plug
4) Change the oil
5) Order an air cleaner assy.
6) New plug

Next year:
Convert to electronic ignition