Hi. I just finished replacing the head gasket on my 1990 accord. After setting the timing (to the red mark on the flywheel) according to the procedures in the service manual I took it for a drive. It seems to run great, except for every now and then it will suddenly lose power, usually when taking off from a stop sign. Sometimes once it gets past about 2000 rpms it will run perfectly fine, but then a couple times it will just shake and lose power until it stalls. After it stalls, I can start it up but it starts up very rough. I'm not sure what a misfire actually feels like, but that could be what its doing too. Could this be a timing problem? The only other thing I can think of is the distributor. When I put it back on after putting the engine together I noticed some of the wires had insulation cracking off them, and I put some electrical tape pieces around them just in case. This could be my imagination, but it also smells like the car is running rich, and my brother said he saw some black smoke out of the tailpipe. Thanks so much for any help, I can't wait to get this car running!

Hi. I just finished replacing the head gasket on my 1990 accord. After setting the timing (to the red mark on the flywheel) according to the procedures in the service manual I took it for a drive. It seems to run great, except for every now and then it will suddenly lose power, usually when taking off from a stop sign. Sometimes once it gets past about 2000 rpms it will run perfectly fine, but then a couple times it will just shake and lose power until it stalls. After it stalls, I can start it up but it starts up very rough. I'm not sure what a misfire actually feels like, but that could be what its doing too. Could this be a timing problem? The only other thing I can think of is the distributor. when i put it back on after putting the engine together i noticed some of the wires had insulation cracking off of them, and i put some electrical tape pieces around them just in case. this could be my imagination, but it also smells like the car is running rich, and my brother said he saw some black smoke out of the tailpipe. Thanks so much for any help, i can't wait to get this car running!
Anyone?

. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor. I recommend replacing these problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. If your spark is compromised, and you're not getting complete combustion, you will smell fuel. Here's how to do it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

If you prefer, AutoZone can test the ICM and coil for free.

. Ensure spark plugs (NGK only) have no more than 24,000 miles or 2 years on them. Here's how to change them:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-5.html#post617111

. Wipe spark plug wires down with silicone spray.

. Ensure distributor cap and rotor have no more than 60,000 miles on them.

. Check for codes. The Oxygen Sensor may be failing.

. Check all vacuum hoses, particularly those going to the MAP Sensor.

. Check EGR Valve and hose.

. Replace deteriorated wiring.

Hi. I just finished replacing the head gasket on my 1990 accord. After setting the timing (to the red mark on the flywheel) according to the procedures in the service manual I took it for a drive. It seems to run great, except for every now and then it will suddenly lose power, usually when taking off from a stop sign. Sometimes once it gets past about 2000 rpms it will run perfectly fine, but then a couple times it will just shake and lose power until it stalls. After it stalls, I can start it up but it starts up very rough. I'm not sure what a misfire actually feels like, but that could be what its doing too. Could this be a timing problem? The only other thing I can think of is the distributor. when i put it back on after putting the engine together i noticed some of the wires had insulation cracking off of them, and i put some electrical tape pieces around them just in case. this could be my imagination, but it also smells like the car is running rich, and my brother said he saw some black smoke out of the tailpipe. Thanks so much for any help, i can't wait to get this car running!
OK so I checked all the above, and just replaced the entire distributor because everything was in bad shape. However, it did nothing. BUT, as I was trying to make it around the block I decided to fill up, because I had less than 1/8th of a tank. I fill up, problem fixed. However, it still hesitates slightly every now and then. But filling up definitely fixed the complete stalling. I used to notice that when my tank was really low, it would take longer to start than when it was full. Could this have something to do with fuel pressure? I'm assuming it would be easier to create stronger fuel pressure with a full tank.

Consider replacing fuel filter.

Hi. I just finished replacing the head gasket on my 1990 accord. After setting the timing (to the red mark on the flywheel) according to the procedures in the service manual I took it for a drive. It seems to run great, except for every now and then it will suddenly lose power, usually when taking off from a stop sign. Sometimes once it gets past about 2000 rpms it will run perfectly fine, but then a couple times it will just shake and lose power until it stalls. After it stalls, I can start it up but it starts up very rough. I'm not sure what a misfire actually feels like, but that could be what its doing too. Could this be a timing problem? The only other thing I can think of is the distributor. when i put it back on after putting the engine together i noticed some of the wires had insulation cracking off of them, and i put some electrical tape pieces around them just in case. this could be my imagination, but it also smells like the car is running rich, and my brother said he saw some black smoke out of the tailpipe. Thanks so much for any help, i can't wait to get this car running!
Well, I went to replace the fuel filter, and somewhere in the midst of trying to screw in the fuel line (the one that is a hard hose), I somehow cross-threaded it into the filter. Needless to say it stopped after threading it in about 20% of the way... I think I could be screwed here. Although I can't believe I've come this far and screwed myself over like that. Any ideas?

Unscrew it and try applying teflon tape (used in plumbing).

OK thanks, I ended up getting the fuel filter to seal, but it still has the problem. I don't think I mentioned this before, but the gas tank leaks at the seam halfway. It has been like this since I got the car 2 years ago, and I didn't want to shell out the money to fix it. Its such a big tank that I can just fill it up halfway and be fine. Someone told me that the leak is the problem... but I don't believe it since it has never given me this problem until now. I can fill it up halfway, and it runs fine until it reaches about 1/4 of a tank.

I have a similar problem with a Honda ccord 1986. If you have a carburettor then fuel pump should not be a problem because the float bowl keeps lots of fuel in it. You can go to several hundred meters even if you disconnect the fuel.

As for the tank there are repairing things in the shops. They don't dissolve in petrol. The leak cannot be a problem. Borrow a freind's car, Open its fuel cap a bit and drive it. Now this car has a hole to the atmosphere and should stall like your car.