Dryer won't heat and I have continuity on all the reachable parts. Not getting juice to the coil during operation. I should have 0.00 OHMS for normal operation, tested when cool on all the parts, right? Thanks for your help.:eek:

You can measure across coil and work backwards, connection to connection, Will be mounted on metal duct work. Or if you place meter across sensor, should read zero volts, if you measure voltage, device is open, replace. If you have voltage to coil(element) and no heat, it is open. Amprobe handy for this(voltage and no current, element is open)

So if I measure in ohms and it measures 0 then there is continuity?

what measures 0 ohms? Does the heating coil when disconnected from the circuit read 0 ohms? If so then that is an issue cause no resitance = no heat. However that is highly unlikely since those usually fail open. There should be a contactor that energized the heating coil, either that or older models could have a contact in the switch. How old is your unit? If it is newer trace the wires back from the heating coil and there should be a relay there. Disconnect the side going to the controlling device and the controller should ready between .3-80 ohms depending on the type of contactor. If that reads good you might want to push in on contactor and read resistance across the terminals to see if the contacts are burned up in the relay. I would recommend against taking any live readins like the fellow above recommended unless you know what you are doing. Even if you do know never work around electric alone! Hope this helps.

Although, poster says 0 ohms, probably a resistance his meter may not read. However, if you are comfortable with working on live Electrical, Then
1) You say you have continuity in element, then it will draw current. If you measure voltage at element, It will Heat or it is Open.
If you have no voltage to Element, and you have continuity in Element, then, turn timer on, set to heat and carefully measure across sensors on metal element ductwork, if you measure voltage across sensor, it is open. Replace. Personally I would remove power, jump out to verify, and turn on to test.
I have been working on Electrical and Electronics since I was 15 years old, am 50 now. Don't know how to test without power on most. You can do many test to verify operation on many things. I need power. If you are not familiar with the dangers with Electrical wiring, Don't touch.
Better than 90% of dryer problems I see are on this Duct. Good Luck.
For no power troubleshooting on this, remove power, remove 1 wire from sensor, and measure 0 Ohms or close. If open, it is bad.

Tanndog, zero ohms is minimum resistance, and it is closed, infinity is wide open, much, much higher resistance(No heat)
Never work on Electric Alone? So do I have to hire somebody? He already measured no voltage to element, he sounds competent. Now you tell him not to work it live?
Carefully read voltage(if competent/qualified)at element an work backwards sensor by sensor. Did you do that yet?