The coil is not firing on my son's 1996 Honda Civic.
Please help!

The Ignition Control Module (ICM) may be bad, which controls when the coil fires. Here's how to remove and replace it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

AutoZone will test ICMs and coils for free.

Proper ignition system evaluation, however, begins by answering three basic diagnostic questions:

1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? If not, repair or replace the Main Relay.

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run? If not, check the fuel pump.

If the CEL does not go out, most Civics will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. That's why we begin our diagnosis here.

K. Well this is the son talking now. I have installed an aftermarket MSD distributor cap and external coil. Now I have had problems on and off with this car bogging down. I tested the coil and its not firing. I'll try what you posted above and hope it works.

Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

All of the fuses are good

If all of the fuses are good and the CEL goes off, it's likely the ICM, unless there's some incompatibility issue with the MSD coil.

What to do now, please? All fuses are good.

Remove and test/replace the ICM, which is inside the distributor. Make sure to coat the back of the new ICM with a thin coating of silicone grease, which they normally include with the new ICM.

Disconnect the negative. Battery cable, before working on the distributor. Also, ensure the connectors going to the ICM and coil are clean and tight.

Here's a simple test you might want to perform:

Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

Here's what the ICM looks like and costs:

Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=194&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Ignition+Module%2fControl+Unit)