We have a Kenmore 80 series washer model number 110.26862503. It is just over one year old and the wife has had an issue the last month or so. It started that the cold water stopped filling. So I just switched the hoses and went off to buy the inlet valve assembly. I have not had the time to install the switch only to find that the washer is not going through the cycle correctly. It stops at the rinse/spin cycle. I can manually move it to get the spin going. After reading up on this I am starting to think that it might be the timer rather than the inlet assembly. Anyone have any ideas or need anymore info from me?

Thanks in advance,

Tim

The coil for the cold water solenoid could be open. If you have 120 Volts at coil, when set to cold, and water does not pass through valve, bad valve. If Not, Timer is more likely.
I would get cold working first.

Thank you. I will switch out the valve and then post the outcome.

Yes, replace water valve then check the timer out.Watch it in the spin cycle as it advances to the spot where it quits. Also a bad lid switch will interup power during the spin cycle.Is this still under warranty?

Yes, replace water valve then check the timer out.Watch it in the spin cycle as it advances to the spot where it quits. Also a bad lid switch will interup power during the spin cycle.Is this still under warranty?


No, it is just a month over one year.:(

Sounds like the "Warranty Timer" Usually set for 1 year and 1 month, so as not to look suspicious. Kidding about this timer, Just seems like it. I hope I'm kidding.

That's always the luck. Didn't know if you bought the extended warranty. I do know that sears will sell you extended warranty and then will repair exsisting problem. Don't know how much thought. I never buy extended warranty because I still can repair for much less.

Here are part numbers and prices for parts, for your washer, you can compare anyway.


http://www.repairclinic.com/0080.asp

That's always the luck. Didn't know if you bought the extended warranty. I do know that sears will sell you extended warranty and then will repair exsisting problem. Don't know how much thought. I never buy extended warranty because I still can repair for much less.

Yeah, I did not buy the extended warranty. I do not buy them because like you I can fix for less.

So if it is the timer is this the part that I am looking for? Is it the inner parts that the knob attaches to?

Appliance Parts from RepairClinic.com - Product Details (http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=1060753)

All right, right about now I am starting to feel stupid. I can rebuild a car, wire and plumb a house but I am stumped with pulling apart this washer.

I just disconnected the washer and pulled it out into the middle of the garage. Now for the stupid question. How do I get into the back of the washer and allow me enough room to replace the valves. There are only 2 screws on the bottom and when removed it does not allow enough room to pull out. I turned the washer onto it's back and the valves are not within reach.

If I need to supply photos to help let me know. Sorry if I am an idiot and asking stupid questions.

Tim

Don't know if like My Kenmore. If it is, may be like this:
Remove the 2 screws from the back,at the very top, and outside.
Remove 2 plastic side pieces, Remove 2 screws that were hidden.
You will see a spring clip on each side. Remove one with screwdriver, and try to install,
Leaving 1 for reference. Once you can do that. Remove both.
Washer needs to be standing to do this.

All right I just replaced the valves. I had to pull the control panel. There were 2 sprign clips holding the top of the panel there. Now I just have to put it back in place to see if it works correctly.

Just fired up the washer and still the same thing. The cold water is not filling up, hot only. I assume that the timer switch is not sent the signal to the inlet valve. What do you all think?

I'm sure you've checked that you do have cold water coming out of the hose. If so to start up and select only cold wash cold rinse. Are you getting voltage at the temp selector at this point?

When set to cold, and timer set, knob out, and door closed, you should have voltage to cold water valve coil. When set to hot, hot solenoid should have voltage. Does it?
And you said you removed cold water hose and turned on and it had good flow?

Yes, Cold hose has water. I will check for the voltage.

That link says it is your timer, nob on other side, Unscrew, or push in and unscrew(counterclockwise).
I would unplug and look at connector on plug, and Timer connections.
I don't know if they said not repairable, personnally I would Take Apart. Even if nothing you can do, you may SEE the problem. Good Luck, No diagram in there?

Yes, there was a diagram. :eek: These things are getting smaller or my eyes are getting older.:D

I have power at the hot valve but not the cold.
The washer does not advance from the rinse to spin.
During the rinse the washer does not spin.

I assume that it is the timer being that it controls all of the things that I have issues with. I am trying to get off the knob for the timer but once again I am stumped. I do not want to break things. Any Ideas how to get it off?


BTW, I'd like to thank eveyone that has offered help.

I think I answered the nob question while you were writing.
Check the post before your last. Good Luck
The writing IS getting smaller, I think manufacturers are partnering with the Eye doctors.
Look at schematic and follow the cold water valve, and connections prior to that.

I'm sure the knob will just pull off. Many times they are stubborn. I would check the timer and the temperature control as well.Do you have voltage there?

I just got back for picking up na dinstalling the timer switch. After pulling it apart I noticed that a few of the contact points were not looking good. I replaced the switch and started a load. The cold and hot water works. Not lets hope that it goes through a whole cycle.

Thanks for everyone's help!!

Hopefully that has taken care of your problems. So many things have to work correctly and together on units. Good Luck

Hoprfully most damage was on timer, and not so much the connector. Good Luck, Take Care.

Hoprfully most damage was on timer, and not so much the connector. Good Luck, Take Care.


The contacts were inside the timer. I saw them after I pulled the timer apart. Also have items to note.

1) Instuctions to pull the knob are molded on the case on the back of the timer.

2) Once you open the timer up I do not think that you will be able to get it back together to work.

It was push in and turn counterclockwise?
I posted, then it went to page 3, Was thinking may have gone to latest page, missing a couple of post. Glad you hung in there and got it. Later