I am about to pull up my old toilet and take a close look at what's underneath. I am also going to go over the original plank sub-floor with fresh 3/8" ply (followed later with thin lauan for eventual linoleum) there is a visible floor patch from an old repair. Given the fact that there has been a bit lf leakage I am anticipating that I will need to re-do the floor under the toilet again. My question is should I need to replace the toilet flange what will I need to do since the flange is now attached to the 4" cast iron drain/'trap' via what appears to be about 8"-10" of cylindrical lead. Can I pull it all out and do new PVC to the cast iron bell and eliminate the lead all together?

Thanks.

I am about to pull up my old toilet and take a close look at what's underneath. I am also going to go over the original plank sub-floor with fresh 3/8" ply (followed later with thin lauan for eventual linoleum) there is a visible floor patch from an old repair. Given the fact that there has been a bit lf leakage I am anticipating that I will need to re-do the floor under the toilet again. My question is should I need to replace the toilet flange what will I need to do since the flange is now attached to the 4" cast iron drain/'trap' via what appears to be about 8"-10" of cylindrical lead. Can I pull it all out and do new PVC to the cast iron bell and eliminate the lead all together?

Thanks.


Why go through the hassle of converting to PVC. Keep the old flange and slip the new floor underneith it. By tapping the flange down using a wooden block and then simply recauking the lead and okum joint, ( no need to repour the joint) you can reset the old flange with no sweat.

What does one re-caulk this joint with?

Thanks.

What does one re-caulk this joint with?

Thanks.
One rents a set of inside and outside caulking irons from your local Rent All.
The inside iron bevels the lead out from the pipe and the outside iron bevels the lead inward from the flange. However you can make your own set with a large screwdriver. On a power grinder put a about a 15 or 20 degree bevel on the blade. You can then reverse it and use it for both inside and outside.
Keep this in mind. All the lead does is keep the okum compressed. The okum keeps the joint from leaking so just caulk the lead enough to tighten up the joint and don't get too heavy handed with the hammer. Regards, Tom

Given that my local code allows no new lead (or any for that matter) for this purpose any longer is it OK to rework what is already there or would it need to be replaced once disturbed?

I also assume that in order to rework this with the screwdriver one would need to torch heat it first (the screwdriver blade)?

Thanks.

Given that my local code allows no new lead (or any for that matter) for this purpose any longer is it OK to rework what is already there or would it need to be replaced once disturbed?

I also assume that in order to rework this with the screwdriver one would need to torch heat it first (the screwdriver blade)?

Thanks.

You are grandfathered in as far as your present plumbing goes. You aren't adding any lead to the system. It will be Ok to rework it.

I also assume that in order to rework this with the screwdriver one would need to torch heat it first (the screwdriver blade)?

NO! No heat is needed once the joint has been poured. Remember what I said; "The inside iron bevels the lead out from the pipe and the outside iron bevels the lead inward from the flange. However you can make your own set with a large screwdriver. On a power grinder put a about a 15 or 20 degree bevel on the blade. You can then reverse it and use it for both inside and outside. Keep this in mind. All the lead does is keep the okum compressed. " Regards, Tom

Gotcha on the irons. When I first heard the word my thoughts immediately ran to heated soldering type irons. But, a quick internet search has now put the proper picture in my head for the tool and their use. Thanks.