I have a Grohe LadyLux Plus leaking below the counter. Water beads are appearing at the clamp area of the faucet where I am pointing my finger in the attached picture. The water then spreads out to the wood underlay of the sink. Overnight, I collect around 2 cups of water if I let the water main kept on. I have isolated that the leaking is caused by the hot water line. When I close the hot water line, no water is collected overnight.

I have read in the posts that this can be the cartridge or the vacuum breaker. How can I tell which one is defective? Any help would really be appreciated.

Thanks.

It is either the cartridge of the body of the valve itself is leaking. Contact Grohe as the cartridge is usually under warranty... will mail it out pretty fast.

Contact them here: GROHE - Contact Us (http://www.grohe.com/us/5647/contact-us/)

Mark

Here are the basics,

Grohe Kitchen Faucet Cartridge Replace - Bing video (http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Grohe+Kitchen+Faucet+Cartridge+Replace&view=detail&&mid=0862F21976BC9EFC12530862F21976BC9EFC1253)

It is either the cartridge of the body of the valve itself is leaking. Contact Grohe as the cartridge is usually under warranty... will mail it out pretty fast.

Contact them here: GROHE - Contact Us (http://www.grohe.com/us/5647/contact-us/)

Mark

Mark, thanks for the input. When you say body of the valve, is this part of the cartridge? I'm trying to understand if this is a replaceable part or does this mean the whole unit needs to be replaced?

It could be the valve body if the valve is not leaking out of the cartridge connection. Use the link talaniman posted and gain access to the nut holding the cartridge in place... if water isn't leaking past this nut then the valve body connections are shot and most likely Grohe should replace the entire valve...

It could be the valve body if the valve is not leaking out of the cartridge connection. Use the link talaniman posted and gain access to the nut holding the cartridge in place... if water isn't leaking past this nut then the valve body connections are shot and most likely Grohe should replace the entire valve...

After viewing the related video (thanks @talaniman) and confidently tapping the handle :-), I was able to expose the cartridge. It was dry. Photo below. I emailed Grohe this morning. Let's see what they say.

While you have it exposed, remove it, and inspect it, and the seats inside the valve body. Rubber and plastic O-rings can get split and damaged and cause leaks that get worse and may need replacing.

If you know the LadyLux faucet, you will know the body is an enclosed shell. Besides the hole that carries the hose, there is really no way for water to enter the body.

Since the leak appearws away from the hose opening, and water droplets are hanging on the edge of the hole in the counter, I suggest you check the following:

1. Start with the most obvious: make sure faucet is tight against the counter top. There is an "O" ring in the base of the faucet. Water may be entering underside of the countertop through the hole in the counter - where base of the faucet meets the counter. If I see your first visual correctly, I can see water stains around the hole. That supports my point.

2. If you have under-mount sink, make sure it is caulked around the edge. Water may be entering ply under the granite - where sink edge meets the granite, through deteriorated seal, appearing under the counter and at the faucet hole.

Back to you

Milo

You said

Overnight, I collect around 2 cups of water

That is certainly more than could seep past the seal between the faucet and the sink. Plus any water passing between the faucet and the sink would not occur overnight when not in use.

You said

When I close the hot water line, no water is collected overnight.

To me, that says that the leak has to be in the hot supply line, between the stop valve and where the supply line attaches to the valve body.

I suggest turning off the stop valves. Disconnect the supply lines and remove the faucet from the sink. Inspect the supply lines. If you do not find any obvious abrasions or holes in the supply lines, reconnect supply lines and turn on the stop valves. You should then be able to see any leak.
Since the leak is occurring above the bottom edge of the counter top, the leak will be close to where the supply line attaches to the valve body and very well be where the line is soldered to the valve.

Can you post a CLEAR photo of the seal between the sink and the counter, also a photo of the underside plywood. Thank you

Milo

Milo
Here are Greens pictures reduced in size

Thanks for re-posting it...

The photo on the left: all 3 points of connections are below the plywood. Body is enclosed shell. The only opening is the hole for hose ( if the hose leaks, water will follow the hose down to the loop ). But ply is still wet. I could be wrong - but it makes me think water is coming from different source than faucet itself. Just want to bring it to his attention

Milo

Thanks for re-posting it...

The photo on the left: all 3 points of connections are below the plywood. Body is enclosed shell. The only opening is the hole for hose ( if the hose leaks, water will follow the hose down to the loop ). But ply is still wet. I could be wrong - but it makes me think water is coming from different source than faucet itself. Just want to bring it to his attention

Milo

Thanks @hkstroud for reducing my pictures. This is my first time posting and didn’t know I had to reduce the image size.


@Milo, I understand that water may be seeping from above the counter. But I collect water overnight. And the amount of water I collect can’t come from above counter seepage. While faucet to counter isn’t sealed, I don’t see major gaps either. Also remember that no water gets collected when I turn off the hot water source.

Initially I suspected that the water is only leaking from the braided hoses. But because plywood gets really soaked (wet 1 foot each to the left and right), I’m thinking it’s coming above. The leak though is so small that I can’t see the actual water beads coming down the solid supply pipes. And the supply pipping are so close together that they are all wet when I touch them.

Is it correct to assume that the culprit can't be the flexible hose because having the cold water supply on the whole night doesn't result to any water being collected?


Where to these supply pipes go to? They must end up to a valve connected to the cartridge. Are they joined permanently to that valve?

Thank you for explaining your faucet situation in detail
Just wanted to make sure, you are aware of the other possible leak options, as well

Milo

Where to these supply pipes go to?
They connect to the valve itself which is inside the chrome cover. Most likely soldered to it.
Don't see any way to see where the actual leak is occurring other than to remove the faucet and then reconnect the supply lines. Then you should be able to actually see the leak.


Are they joined permanently to that valve?

Yes

They connect to the valve itself which is inside the chrome cover. Most likely soldered to it.
Don't see any way to see where the actual leak is occurring other than to remove the faucet and then reconnect the supply lines. Then you should be able to actually see the leak.



Yes


Thanks @hkstroud for the additional clarification. Looks like this is a Saturday project.

If hot water supply connection to the valve itself is leaking, is this assembly replaceable? Or am I on the hook for a new faucet?

All logic says that the leak will be in the supply tube or where the tube is soldered to the valve. You should be able repair with solder but you will have to wait and see.

I think Grohe owes you a new faucet. Those chrome supply tubes are soldered in a place you/we can't get to even with faucet removed. Remove the faucet if you want... it certainly can't hurt to check closer, but my guess is that the valve body leaks (or supply tube) and you need a new faucet. Keep us posted.

Now, do you know how to remove that faucet w/o damaging under-counter tubing ? Do you still have the dedicated "Star Wrench" Grohe supplies with each new faucet ?

Ahhhh... yes, the removal from the top! He can also use a crescent wrench. Care to elaborate, Milo? I'm sure he'd appreciate it!

If you follow my other link you can see other videos and this is one of them,

Lady Lux Grohe Replacement Parts Plus - Bing video (http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Lady+Lux+Grohe+Replacement+Parts+Plus&view=detail&&mid=E2F2DCB2804E6DA46FBAE2F2DCB2804E6DA46FBA)

You can pull this whole faucet and examine the A ring (between the faucet body and sink top) and even reconnect the water lines (and handle with cartridge) while you have it out, and inspect the hot water tube where it connects to the cartridge seat.

When you removed the cartridge what did you see in the valve body where the seats would be?

I follow HK's logic, and this would be an out of the ordinary situation, but something you can ask Grohe about.

As you see I like videos for general instruction and insights. Watch a few.

Now, do you know how to remove that faucet w/o damaging under-counter tubing ? Do you still have the dedicated "Star Wrench" Grohe supplies with each new faucet ?

No I don't have the "Star Wrench" anymore. The faucet needs to be loosened from above counter, right?

I actually just tried pulling out the arm and it doesn't move. Is this part just pulled out? I just to need to use more force. Just don't want to damage any other part.


If you follow my other link you can see other videos and this is one of them,

Lady Lux Grohe Replacement Parts Plus - Bing video (http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Lady+Lux+Grohe+Replacement+Parts+Plus&view=detail&&mid=E2F2DCB2804E6DA46FBAE2F2DCB2804E6DA46FBA)

You can pull this whole faucet and examine the A ring (between the faucet body and sink top) and even reconnect the water lines (and handle with cartridge) while you have it out, and inspect the hot water tube where it connects to the cartridge seat.

When you removed the cartridge what did you see in the valve body where the seats would be?

I follow HK's logic, and this would be an out of the ordinary situation, but something you can ask Grohe about.

As you see I like videos for general instruction and insights. Watch a few.

I didn't remove the cartridge just exposed it to see if there are visible leaks coming from it above counter. I didn't want to remove the cartridge because I was afraid I could damage another part that may cause another leak. I wanted to at least just isolate the real leak.

Turn Water Off

1. Unscrew the handle.
2. Remove the metal hose, undo water supplies
3. Pull out the arm ( spout )
4. Unscrew the threaded rod ( if you don't have the Star Wrench, use pliers or Cresent Wrench. The threads are very fine. It will take many turns to unscrew. Be patient. Keep turning, until you hear the "U" shape brass nut to fall down to the cabinet ). It is a very common problem. Now the faucet is loose, ready to be lifted from the counter )

Hope that helps / Let us know how you did

Milo

PS: FYI - I am enclosing an image of similar problem we have recently attended on behalf of Grohe / warranty call. Almost identical to yours. Cause: bad seal between sink and granite counter top. Water seeping through, dripping through faucet hole. Now you know why I was mentioning it before.

Turn Water Off

1. Unscrew the handle.
2. Remove the metal hose, undo water supplies
3. Pull out the arm ( spout )
4. Unscrew the threaded rod ( if you don't have the Star Wrench, use pliers or Cresent Wrench. The threads are very fine. It will take many turns to unscrew. Be patient. Keep turning, until you hear the "U" shape brass nut to fall down to the cabinet ). Now the faucet is loose, ready to be lifted from the counter )

Hope that helps

Milo

Awesome! Thanks for everyone's help! This will have to wait until the weekend as the family needs the kitchen working. Just need to continue draining my bucket under the counter. :-)

I would like to add: Newer Grohe faucets have water supplies screwed into the body via 1/4" IP threaded end. There is an O-ring behind the thread as well. These supplies are screwed in by hand, no tools. The "O" ring makes the seal. Once you take the faucet out, try to twist it CW ( tightening it ) to see if it needed to be screwed in. If it leaked from that connection - all you will need is a new "O" ring. Just twist the supply CCW, unscrew it and take it down to the store to buy new O-ring.

Let us know how you did

Milo

This guy is at least 10 years old. You think this o-ring set-up will be here? Anyway, I will watch out for this. Thanks again.

Home Depot or Loews has everything you may need.

I would like to add: Newer Grohe faucets have water supplies screwed into the body via 1/4" IP threaded end. There is an O-ring behind the thread as well. These supplies are screwed in by hand, no tools. The "O" ring makes the seal. Once you take the faucet out, try to twist it CW ( tightening it ) to see if it needed to be screwed in. If it leaked from that connection - all you will need is a new "O" ring. Just twist the supply CCW, unscrew it and take it down to the store to buy new O-ring.

Let us know how you did

Milo

I took out the faucet this afternoon and took some picture to show what is inside.

First picture shows the supply lines. I think they look clean.

Second picture shows the output line. You will notice that there is some green deposits around the base. Could this be the leak?

Third picture, I was trying to show the condition of the rest of the output line. Not sure if it is visible but it is visibly "dirtier" with deposits than the supply lines.

I also tried attaching the faucet back to the main supply and turn on the water. I did see the contraption (lime green color) close to the output line get wet. It looks like it's a ball valve. Is this normal?

Unfortunately, aside from the ball valve getting wet, I didn't see any drip despite waiting for at least 10 min. I ran out of time this afternoon so I had to stop at 10 min. I may try again tomorrow.

What is really weird to me is that if the leak is coming from the output, why does it stop when I switch off the hot water source? Shouldn't it continue leaking even with just the cold water on? I definitely did not detect any leaks in the supply pipes going into the main valve.

Bill

48142Here's the picture of the supply lines.

Here's the picture of the output line with the green deposits.
48143

Lastly, the picture of the condition of the rest of the output line/pipe.
48144

Call Grohe, as Mark said earlier, they owe you a new faucet.

Call Grohe, as Mark said earlier, they owe you a new faucet.

No, that is not the hot water supply line with the green deposits. That is the line going to the flexible hose.

The faucet is 10 years old. Sorry to say, but I doubt Grohe will replace it free of charge. I think it is time to upgrade your kitchen faucet with new one.

Milo

I understand. Just wanted to see if it was a quick fix like a cartridge replacement. But it looks like it's a bigger problem.

GROHE - Warranties - Services for you (http://www.grohe.com/us/5685/services-for-you/warranties/)
Call Grohe
(800) 444-7643