I have a 98 Honda Accord that the starter cranks engine but engine won't start as if not get fuel because I've already checked to see if had spark which it does. Cuz it doesn't have a fuel pressure check that I can see on fuel rail I cracked open line leading to fuel rail and, not at a high pressure, fuel is getting delivered to the rail. The fuel pump was replaced just 2 years ago which has the fuel filter in it I've been told plus I can't seem to find an external or in line fuel filter which I was hoping it would be. And the main relay was recently replaced as well. However the car had been run out of gas before it started having this problem is it possible that the one time it ran out of fuel in the 2 years since replacing the fuel pump it would be able to make it stop working?

Since the car ran out of gas just before the problem developed, make sure the fuel rail is fully pressurized. Turn the ignition switch to On and wait for the fuel pump to stop running; then, turn the ignition switch Off. Repeat this process 3 times. On the third attempt, turn the ignition switch to Start. Make sure the fuel tank has more than a token amount of gas. If the engine still doesn't start, follow the procedure below.

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Normally, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM; otherwise, it won't last long. If the ICM is failing, you can have spark but it's not firing at the right time to start the engine. This is the ideal time to also replace the rotor and distributor cap, if they haven't been changed in 60,000 miles. Old rotors and distributor caps are often responsible for ICMs and coils failing.

Since the car ran out of gas just before the problem developed, make sure the fuel rail is fully pressurized. Turn the ignition switch to On and wait for the fuel pump to stop running; then, turn the ignition switch Off. Repeat this process 3 times. On the third attempt, turn the ignition switch to Start. Make sure the fuel tank has more than a token amount of gas. If the engine still doesn't start, follow the procedure below.

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Normally, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM; otherwise, it won't last long. If the ICM is failing, you can have spark but it's not firing at the right time to start the engine. This is the ideal time to also replace the rotor and distributor cap, if they haven't been changed in 60,000 miles. Old rotors and distributor caps are often responsible for ICMs and coils failing.



Thank you for your time I am going to be working on the car today and I'll let you know how it went.

Great. The job usually goes faster, if you remove the coil first (improves access to the ICM) and use a Philips #2 precision tip screwdriver.