If an appliances electrical certification tag reads 220-240V 50/60 Hz.

The wiring panel looks like this... View image: 134000 133209 18010 93976850 (http://postimg.org/image/aq9rnsif5/)

And the wiring diagram reads like this...
View image: Screenshot 2014 08 28 22 07 51 (http://postimg.org/image/4nzlsg6zn/)

What is the proper way to wire it to a North American standard 3 wire + ground (white, black, red & bare) 240v 60hz dual pole electrical line.

You mean 60 hertz

Probibly is what they mean, but if it wasn't... I can guess 60 hurts... I know 50 did.

Sorry, bad pun.

No answers?

It appears that this appliance may be French, and so is wired for 220V with a hot lead and a neutral. In the US our 220 volt system has two hots, and no neutral (unless a 110 volt circuit is required by the appliance). The 4-wire US cord is designed with red and black being the two hot leads, white is neutral, and green (or bare) is ground. It would seem that you could attach black to terminal 1 and red to terminal 4, with ground on the end ground terminal and white not connected at all. However, not knowing how this appliance is wired inside I'd be afraid that attaching the hot red to where the manufacturer expects a neutral to be attached could be dangerous. My suggestion is to have an electrician look at it and see if this would be OK.

What if the question was...
If an appliances electrical certification tag reads 220-240V 50/60 Hz is there any reason to suspect it won't work in NA?

I can have an electrician look at it, I am trying to decide if I should buy it

From what I see based on your two linked pictures... I'm going to say no it won't work. For the reasons ebaines correctly explained. I don't see an option for wiring it at the voltages available in the average American home.

I don't intend to confuse this issue but 220 Volts is 220 volts whether one of the conductors is grounded or not. USA voltage is a bit higher, 240V on average and the frequency is 60 hertz not 50 which can be an issue in some equipment.
If this equipment is not UL or CSA recognized then using this commercially may be difficult.
Why would you consider EU equipment and not USA?

The problem I am having is the actual manual shows 220-240v 50/60hrz. To me this reads it will work here.

As I do not own the unit and the company is being uncooperative the pictures shown are the closest I could find. According to the post forums they come from they are appropriate brand but not nessicarily model.

My reasoning is irrelevant to the circuit but I will share. Induction is under exposed and over priced in NA. If there was an equililent model it would be thousands more.

I don't intend to confuse this issue but 220 Volts is 220 volts whether one of the conductors is grounded or not

True, and I would fully expect the unit to function properly if wired as I suggested. But there may be a safety issue here. The manufacturer designed the applicance with an expectation of a neutral connection, whose potential is quite close to chassis ground. Consequently the unit may not have proper protection for the 120 volts of hot-to-chassis that this would create. And heaven forbid if they have actually tied neutral to chassis ground inside the appliance! To be honest I doubt that they would do this, but it's one of those things where if you are wrong, you may be catastrophically wrong.

I was thinking it would be:
1 Red
2 Black
3 spacer
4-5 bridged white
6 ground

I think the neural return may be needed if the control board runs at 120v. If true the neutral is necessary.

Of course I am not sure so I asked.

I have an electrical schematic from the unit... received in email today. Its in German but the Google translate app translates photos. I can't read it English or German. I had asked for pics of the wiring harness and wiring method for 240v 60hz.

View image: Screenshot 2014 09 11 17 22 53 (http://postimg.org/image/uxxi2332r/)

I don't think this is correct. It appears from the diagram that there are three induction units, each running at 220v. Your approach would power just two, and only at 110 each. This diagram also doesn't match the photo of the terminal block, as it requires a connection to terminal 3, which is missing in the photo. Could it be that the unit youare considering is equipped with only two induction units, not three? Also, fom the diagram in your original post it seems that the unit is designed to run off two sets of 220v lines - do you have specs on the power draw of the unit?

The problem is the company will not send me pics of the wiring harness or wiring diagrams.

The harness and wiring pics are from the proper brand but not model. The schematic is for the model in question and the proper manual says...

http://www.imagesup.net/?di=014105027451

The maual states 240V 60Hz should work but they are being anything but helpful.

This is a six burner unit so what you say about the #3 spacer makes sense.

The wiring diagram seems to show connections of two hot leads (terminals 1 and 2) and three neutrals (terminals 3, 4, and 5), which seems strange to me. The good news is that chassis ground (PE) is definitely separate from neutral. It may work OK in the US with one of the 220v hots (say, black) connected to terminals 1 and 2 and the other hot (red) to terminals 3, 4, and 5, with ground connected to PE. The US neutral wire shouldn't be connected to anything. Make sure the wiring and circuit breaker are rated for 50 amps.

It seemed strange not to use the neutral so I DLed manuals for many brands of Induction... most do not use neutrals! I guess they have transformers inside and provide a low voltage for the controls.

Today I learned if a neutral is req the name plate reads 120/240V 60Hz

Like this: http://i.stack.imgur.com/qWsD8.png

Thanks so much ebaines!
Often I don't know the proper questions to find the answers I want.

1+2 black
3+4+5 red
6 ground

Before installing I will try to verify with the company. I am sure the UL lab will set me right if they don't respond.

ImagesUp - Screenshots 2014 09 16 21 29 38 (http://www.imagesup.net/pm-514109246256.png)

I guess they have transformers inside and provide a low voltage for the controls.

Being a German appliance, there would be no need for any 120V connections at all, given that 120V is not available in German households. FYI, digital logic controls typically operate at 5V DC, and the power supply built into the control circuitry would do a direct conversion fromn 240V AC to 5V DC.

Finally decided to order. These pictures are of the actual device on my table with the exception of the schematic I was emailed.

Looking again it still seems ebaines was correct in 1+2, 3+ 4 +5, ground. No neutral as this is 230v not 120v-2-240v-240v

It even came with a spare bridge, still one short I think.

More good news is that the plate itself reads 60hz, I was told there was no promises.

http://s12.postimg.org/3nqe117rt/20150310_232255.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/3nqe117rt/)

http://s12.postimg.org/m5uql9pjt/20150310_235103.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/m5uql9pjt/)

http://s12.postimg.org/ifv3sddp5/Screenshot_2015_03_11_00_55_34.png (http://postimg.org/image/ifv3sddp5/)

http://s12.postimg.org/abmznmra1/Sketch11321456.png (http://postimg.org/image/abmznmra1/)