I have a 14 year old Kenmore electric dryer that recently stopped heating. Everything else seems to be working fine. The drum works and there is plenty of air flow. I checking the different thermostats and heater element with a ohm meter and they all seemed to have activity except for the thermal cut-off. I replaced this part and it seemed to work for about 4 loads of clothes and then it stopped heating AGAIN. I checked and found out the thermal cutoff was no longer working again. Would else could the problem be? What would cause the thermal cut off to blow again in such a short time?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Debbie Reese

One of the elements could be partly shorted, drawing excess current. Check them and replace any one that has a lower resistance. Also compare the resistance to any rating you find. Watts = volts times amps. Volts/ohms = amps.

Thanks for the response. I only have one element and it seems to be OK.

The heatign element will seem to work OK but in fact when its running its blowing heat in and the element could just be worn out. I had a wirlpool till just all of a sudden it went to doing that, so I checked the element and sure enough it was completely gone

I bought a new whirlpool dryer along with a new power cord. I returned the first dryer because it was not heating and the timer was not working. I just plugged in my second dryer and its doing the same thing.

If the dial doesn't light up, the drum turn, the light inside light, or anything, You need to check to make sure the outlet is hot. Sometimes circuit breakers look like they are OK, but are not. Try turning the breaker off, and back on.

Yes, check your breaker, they do go bad.

I have a Kenmore 80 series dryer that isn't heating anymore? I changed the heater, the thermal fuse, the thermostat, and thermal bias and still not heat. Any ideas what else it could be?

Thanks

Is there a relay between the thermostat and heating element? They are a frequent source of trouble. Otherwise, check for power working back from the element or relay. I came across the niftiest gadget for that sort of a thing, a voltage detector. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit.

I have a really weird question - my cat decided to urinate on a bag that was on top of my dryer. It went down into the top lint vent. I cleaned it the best I could, but now my dryer heats initially, but when it needs to re-ignite to keep the heat going, it makes a buzzing sort of sound with no ignition. Any suggestions as to what this is? I opened the back and cleaned out the entire lint area and vacuumed all the wires etc.

The urine has water soluble materials that are charged particles and conducts electricity like salt water. When the dryer has had time to set and dry, it may be OK, but once moisture from the clothes reaches the wiring, something shorts out. You may need to wash the wiring. UNPLUG THE DRIER. Spray some soapy water everywhere the urine may have gone. Brush as much of the contacts as you can. Follow with clear water. Give everything plenty of time to dry. Maybe even use your hair dryer.

Hi..

I could use some professional advice. I have a Kenmore dryer about 12 years or so old (model # 110.86873100). All of a sudden there's no heat.. I took out the element and that looks OK with no burnout issues that I can see.

I'm ready to order from RepairClinic.com the nesscessary parts to get the element to fireup. Some had a similar issue and replaced the parts and still had problems..

The only other parts I can see to replace (other then the element) That's connected to the outer case for the element are as follows: They look like snap disc's



Part # 696397 Thermostat 250 F - 121 C

Part # 695563 Thermal Cutoff

Part # 660039 Thermostat 150 F - 65.6 C

Can anyone tell me if I replace any of these or all of them, would this solve the problem? Could it be the element even though it looks OK..?

Many Thanks,

Jag

Replacing parts unless you are sure they are bad, is expensive. You might save the $25 a multimeteer and a voltage detector would cost on this job alone. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. The multimeter on the ohm scale will quickly tell you if the element is open.

Those parts are likely suspects. Also check the relay, a common problem.

Hi..

Thanks for getting back.. I'll have to get one of those..

I just noticed that one of the coils separted from the other on the element. It was so fragile that when I took it out it broke apart. I temporary touched together and sure enough it fired right up..

I'm ready to order one on Repair clinic. The one they sell is 5200 W 240 v the one that's in the dryer is 5400 w 240v. I'm asuming it's OK to get this one. Correct?

Thanks.

Jag

Sounds good. 200 out of 5400 is less than 4%. Could mean it might take 26 minutes to dry a load instead of 25.

Thanks Labman for all your help..

I ordered one on RepairClinic.com for $35 plus $13 for 2 day shipping. Need that dryer in running order asap. They are kind of high priced.

Then low and behold I go on eBay and there's a seller out there with loads of these brand new elements for 9 bucks.. $8 shipping. Oh well, should check Ebay for this stuff before rushing an order.


Again, thanks for all your help..

JAG

Hi
This is my frist time to your forum
I have Kenmore dryer which does not heat up.
I have 220v in my outlet and in my dryer, my element is okay,
When I opened the dryer after 30 minds checking everything I was about to close it and I turn it on and I see the element heats up. So I thought there was wiring problem, but my experience with fixing things tells me, if I do not change parts, mean the problem still there, sure after closing it did not heat up. So I open again, and some time later, the element worked, so to say it has mind of its own? Any hint please

The power to the element is controlled by a relay. Some times relays get to where they work some time and not others. Follow the wiring from where it comes in to the element. Somewhere there is a little box the wires go in with wires going out to the element. There will be one more pairof wires. That is the relay, and likely, it is going bad. Replace it, and the dryer should work every time. Unfortunately, it could also be the timer. It may not be sending power to the third pair of wires on the relay.

Hi labman

The close up in my digital camera does not work, but I took picture and post it for you in the link.
This relay has only 2 wires, any relay I had experience with had 4wires
, 2 for powering the relay, and the other 2 wires for switching.
http://www.taj.150m.com/dryer.htm

It sure looks like a relay. Could it have contacts with whatever it is that is beside it? Maybe you need to remove it and inspect and test it. Identify the coil, and apply 120 to it and see if it clicks.

I look at the schematic diagram there is no relay in the system.
Please look at the link and tell me if there is.
I put 120v at what I thought it could be relay, but it was the buzzer, you know when the dryer stop the cycle and it buzzes that it finished drying up.

http://www.tajcontractor.com/dryer/pics.htm

Please follow the next link to see the schematic diagram.

Thanks

I think the relay is at the right edge near the middle. Follow the red wire, labeled L2, from the plug to the open switch between M2 and M1. It looks like the same relay controls the motor too. If the drum turns, likely the problem is not with the relay, but one of the temperature sensors. They are near the bottom. With the power off, you should be able to measure continuity between the terminal on the timer marked R and the element. If not, check each of the 3 sensors between them. If one is open, it is bad. Replacing it should fix the problem. It could also closed cold and open at too low of a temperature. You may have to check it with the power on, but the dryer not heating. That is best done with a voltage detector.

I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit.

The relay and timer could all be built into the larger black box to the right of the buzzer.

I solved the problem
There was not 240v at my plug. The wire inside the plug was loose.and I saw sometimes I had 240v, the other time did not, I changed 3multimeter that I had, I did not think that would be a problem with plug.
So the only problem is set timer since I open it, it is out of gear setup.
Any help on that.
Bytheway I bought a used one for $25 just in case.when I hooked up the used one I realized that the plug was not good.

I fixed my problem with a great help of
Pegi at Sams
Appliance Tech - Moderator

This is how to:Take the cam/shaft assy and insert it carefully into the body of the timer box that holds the contacts, however while doing this carefully turn the shaft to the right, wiggle the cam assy and shaft and turn the shaft to the right slowly, within a minute or two all of the cams will find their level and will seat properly within the timer body/contact holders. When the silver back of the timer is flush with the black timer body and the shaft turns properly to the right it should be all lined back up properly. Just do not turn it to the left as this might damage/bend the contact holders.

labman comments did not continue with his help, I just wondered why?

Hello,
I have the same problem as debreese. I haven't replaced anything yet and I am working without a schematic. Dryer is a Kenmore electric 110.96364100.
In a de-energized state, my thermal cut-off is open. I'm assuming this is abnormal since the rest of my thermostats are in a closed position when de-energized.
Since the heating element can be part of the problem, what is a normal resitance range for a healthy element. Should it be next to nothing the lower the better... or are they like plug wires and work better with a certain degree of resistance.
Is a continuity test the right way to test a heating element... I have not visually inspected it yet... dreading disassembling the rest of the dryer to get to it.
Thanks for any help.

What is the location of the open device? Usually, the best way to check the heater is with continuity. Just set your meter to the lowest scale (may beep with closed circuit). Between the two terminals (wires off) you should get a beep. From one terminal to dryer cabinet or unpainted metal you should get infinite resistance. Elements are either good or they aren't. If it's physically broken or shorted, replace it. If not, don't.

I have a whirlpool Roper Dryer. It would tumble but not dry no heat. I replaced the heating element and it dryed for about 5 min. and then no heat again. I have checked the breaker and its not cloged it is getting air flow. What can it be HELP... :confused:

A volt/ohm meter is usually required to find the problem. Do you have one, and are you comfortable checking voltages? If you are, please provide the model number, as well as the part numbers for any parts you have changed. Thanks.

I have a Kenmore 80 series Super capacity plus dryer. Model# 77832791 77832 that is not heating. Sounds like after it runs for about 30 seconds that it is trying to fire up but then doesn't. I consider myself to be handy and could probably fix it with some help. Any idea where I should start? Does it sound like the sensor, the ignitor, or some other part? The air dry works fine just no heat...

Thank you.

Brian

I have a GE dryer that is giving me some problems. I am wondering if anyone can possibly give me an educated guess at what the problem may be. The timer sometimes will work correctly, meaning that it will actually complete the program without getting stuck and stay running. The other issue is that sometimes it heats up enough to dry the clothes and sometimes it only heats up enough to make them damp and warm, but doesn't dry. This is not a digital dryer. Thanks.

My Whirlpool dryer does not dry very well?

I have a Kenmore 80 series dryer that isn't heating anymore? I changed the heater, the thermal fuse, the thermostat, and thermal bias and still not heat. Any ideas what else it could be?

Thanks
What the He** is is a thermal bias!
Been in the appliance servive industry and never heard of that "part!" Sounds good though!