My pressure switch will not cut out.
So far I have replaced foot valve. Pipe to well and to pump.Installed new pressure tank.Have lots of supply when pump is running but will not shut off.Only thing I have not replaced is 2 T's and a short length of pipe to pump lines which seem to have small leaks

Almost hate to ask this, but have you replaced the switch? If so, did you also replace the little pipe that the switch attaches to?

Yes and like I said there are small leaks at the metal fittings between the pump and tank not real bad but a steady drip

Sorry also forgot to mention I have also replaced the pump


Sorry also forgot to mention I have also replaced the pump


Yes and like I said there are small leaks at the metal fittings between the pump and tank not real bad but a steady drip

OK A few questions.

1. Are you having to turn off the breaker to finally get the pump to stop pumping? If so, then how high is the pressure getting? Could be that the pressure is simply not getting high enough to hit the cutoff point.
2. If you are having to turn off the breaker to finally get the pump to stop, and the pressure is getting high enough that it should be turning off, then try turning the large center nut on the switch two or three full turns counter clockwise. Turn the power back on and see if that helps.
3. One more question. Assuming that the pump is above ground, then how many pipes go into the well, one or two?

OK A few questions.

1. Are you having to turn off the breaker to finally get the pump to stop pumping? If so, then how high is the pressure getting? Could be that the pressure is simply not getting high enough to hit the cutoff point.
2. If you are having to turn off the breaker to finally get the pump to stop, and the pressure is getting high enough that it should be turning off, then try turning the large center nut on the switch two or three full turns counter clockwise. Turn the power back on and see if that helps.
3. One more question. Assuming that the pump is above ground, then how many pipes go into the well, one or two?

Yes have to turn off power to stop pump
Only reaching 35 psi
Pressure gauge seems to fluxuate between 30 and 35 psi
Above ground pump with 1 pipe

Could an obstruction or build up of hard water deposits contribute to this

Yes pump needs to be turned off
Only reaching 35 psi and fluxuating between 30 and 35 psi
Lots of water to shower and run taps while open but won't build pressure when all taps shut
Above ground pump with 1 pipe

Is it possible that a buildup of corrosion due to hard water contribute to this


Yes pump needs to be turned off
Only reaching 35 psi and fluxuating between 30 and 35 psi
Lots of water to shower and run taps while open but won't build pressure when all taps shut
Above ground pump with 1 pipe

Is it possible that a buildup of corrosion due to hard water contribute to this

I should add that system is holding prime as well

That explains some things. One pipe going into the well is a shallow well system. The deeper the water, the less efficient it is. Any idea how far down it is to water?

I don't think corrosion is a problem unless the wellpipe is galvanized pipe, but it sounds like you replaced all of that.

That explains some things. One pipe going into the well is a shallow well system. The deeper the water, the less efficient it is. Any idea how far down it is to water?

I don't think corrosion is a problem unless the wellpipe is galvanized pipe, but it sounds like you replaced all of that.

Water is about 12 feet down.
There is galvanized pipe off the pump itself,2 T's and 2 short straight pieces of pipe for flow to and from pressure tank


That explains some things. One pipe going into the well is a shallow well system. The deeper the water, the less efficient it is. Any idea how far down it is to water?

I don't think corrosion is a problem unless the wellpipe is galvanized pipe, but it sounds like you replaced all of that.

Water is about 12 feet down
There is a section of about 1 foot consisting of 2 T's and 2 short pipes that are galvanized that have not been replaced


Water is about 12 feet down
There is a section of about 1 foot consisting of 2 T's and 2 short pipes that are galvanized that have not been replaced
These run directly off the pump

Hi Brian,
Welcome to the plumbing page. I just spent 10 minutes merging multiple posts that you have written. In the future if you wish to add something to one of your posts click on the edit button and just add what you have to say. Good luck, Tom

Brian, you've replaced about everything. I don't think the galvanized section is a big problem. Even if obstructed somewhat, it wouldn't prevent the pump from getting to cut off pressure. For now, I'd turn down the cut off pressure on the switch as I described above to get it to cutoff at 35 just for the sake of convenience and not over-running your pump. After that, sitting here a long ways from you, it's just hard to say. Make sure you set the tank pressure to 2# below your cut in pressure. So, for example, if the pump turns on at 25#, then set the tank pressure at 23#. Do this with the power off and pressure drained to zero by opening a low level faucet.

One more question: When you turn the pump off, does the pressure hold steady at 35# with no water being used, or does it tend to slowly fall off?

Fix your leaks, and recalibrate the high pressure shut of switch.

It's always good to fix leaks, but a minor, dripping leak would not prevent the system from getting up to cut off pressure. He can set the system to shut off at 35#, and if that is satisfactory, then fine, but that means the pump won't cut back on until the pressure reaches 15 or 20 pounds, which is not much.